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Discussion in 'General IH Tech' started by Perdido, Sep 11, 2020.
LOL like I said. Might not be an issue for you at all.
If you can't fit shocks longer than the wheel travel break out your welder.
I will definitely have to do this soon.
yep. Higher mount point on the frame is almost a must for the front shocks. The stock height doesn't allow for a very long shock to go in there. The rear could use a little more too.
ETA: I think I did it the smart way. First thing I did was determine that I needed 9-10" of shock travel at the front. Then I engineered new shock mounts on the frame that would allow for that travel, with the shock eye being at the mid-point of the travel.
I forgot to show you and Perdido what I did had to do with the inner wheel wells at the back. Good news is, no outer sheet metal mod was needed. At least not with my size tires and my wheel backspacing.
Left pic is "before". You can see where the factory sheet metal had been literally torn UP by the tire over the years. Made a horrible burping sound every time. Much of the damage was done with 31s and stock suspension, but it continued occasionally with 31s even after the lift. BTW, you can see where I started planning my cut with a Sharpy.
Middle pic shows the in-progress. I cut away some metal and pounded back that thicker vertical piece away from the wheel well.
Right pic, it's all done. WAY less rubbing for sure. And when it does rub, the tire doesn't catch on anything so it just rubs smoothly so I don't hear it. If it wasn't for a few small tire marks back there I find occasionally, I would not know there was any contact. Also what helps in the back are the lower bumpstops of course.
Those National springs I just stuffed under the front end do. Need longer shocks and straps. Just one little change, and more work.
That area of the fender was turned up on Johns Scout and I took a BFH to it, but might need to do more. Since the body is off I may give it a little massage.
Same here. A 3# sledge. After cutting away the areas I didn't want anymore, Iit banged the edge in on the C channel that runs along the back of the wheel well. Folded it back about 30-45° from vertical. I might have used the hammer in conjunction with a vice grip to help pry it back while keeping it straight. I also pounded back that lower edge where it wraps around, you might be able to tell from the pic.
And then I used a combo of welds and autobody seam sealer to joint all the edges together.
I take it you already flexed it out and measured. How much travel are you getting?
Did not take any measurements, other than letting it droop and ramps on the corners. Right now the front shocks (which are for a 4" lift) are limiting articulation, and at full droop the u-joint will bind. That, with 2 degree shims and stock shackles. At full stuff the military wraps are close to contacting the winch bumper. The Scout they were built for has limiting straps so I guess I should not be surprised. They do ride good and control at HWY speed is excellent.