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Discussion in 'General IH Tech' started by Perdido, Sep 11, 2020.
Stock shackle length is 3".
Pretty sure IHPA offers a heavy duty shackle option for reusing the stock sway bar aswell. If you don't plan on doing the reverse shackle make sure you do keep the front sway bar between the front shackles.
Which I don't think you have because the PO put those dangerous shackles in place.
Thanks for the heads up on the sway bar. I do have the original and one side was bolted on, the other side was welded to the shackle, but fell off. I’ll clean it up and reuse it or cut out a new one. I’ve also seen a brace advertised that says it helps stabilize the Scout and it mounts further back...is something like this worthwhile?
Thanks again, Perdido
The sway bar is Spring steel, you can't just make a new one unfortunately.
The other brace is called a straight steer. It stabilizes the steering box load to both frame rails rather than just the drivers side.
Check that area for cracks in the frame, it's a common issue. What a lot of people do is weld a 3/16 or 1/4" plate to the outside of drivers frame rail for better support.
I did that along with the straight steer brace.
Thanks again for the great advice...I’ll inspect the frame more closely before I proceed.
Perdido, you'll want more than stock length front shackles. You'll want actual factory front shackles. Or reproductions there of. And forget the IHPA shackles mentioned. The 'sway bar' version are only available in 5".
The factory inboard shackles look like this. (Outers are just straight bars with holes.) These are available from many good sources. Same with the factory sway bar. You can find those for not too much money.
With everything put together correctly, the front shackles and sway bar will look like this below.
For what you're doing stock shackles are fine. Someone on here or FB IH group should be able to hook you up cheap. I'm curious what IPHA says about the $670 rough country 2.5" kit. The 4" kit has a legacy rep for being rough riding, but supposedly RC has new spring rates. Shocks I would spend the extra money for top shelf Fox or Bilstein 7100 that you can actually tune to your liking. BTW, that SJ kit is under $1000 on Summit with free shipping.
The IH Parts skyjacker 2” kit with Bilstein 5100 and 4* wedges is just under $1400 and I don’t know what shipping would be. There are several places cheaper with free shipping and I would have to source the shocks separately. Bilstein does not list a part number for those shocks and I would need to cross reference them. I could really use some stock front and rear shackles And will post in the BST forum.
At least you wouldn't have to also pay ~8% sales tax on all that, like us in California.
The shocks aren't rocket surgery to suss out. Fronts are eye-stem type (if you have the factory shock mounts on the frame) and the rears are eye-eye. From there you'd want to determine the max/min length. Kind of tough since you have not lifted it yet. So you might want to wait until the springs are on, then measure and order shocks. And to get your max/min length, measure your 'resting' length after driving the Scout a few yards to let the springs settle. The measure the point-to-point dimensions of all your mounts. Let's say the fronts are about 18". Then you figure real world travel will be about 4-5" up and down from that number. Thus, you'd want front shocks that are about 12" min and max of 23" max. Give or take an inch.
For shock valving, which is hugely important of course, I think most people seem pretty satisfied with the "255/70" valving on their Scouts. That's one of Bilstein's standard valve stacks, and I think it's what IHPA would be selling you.
Here's Bilstein's online catalog. On p.38 is their "Custom Fit" section. There you will find PNs and their physical characteristics. It's for people who know pretty much what they want based on their own determinations:
Also, since you're not afraid of doing a little custom work and fabricating etc, you might think about cutting off the front shocks' stem mounts (on the fram) and replacing them with taller eye mounts. That will really broaden your selection of shocks. Google "ford shock towers". People graft those onto all kinds of fourwheelers to improve the suspensions.
Including yours truly. My shock tower project in progress:
I purchased my kit direct from Skyjacker so that I could get black max shocks. Last I checked IH Parts America did not offer that as an option. I am running 32's on mine with the 2" lift, 1" body lift and new poly bushings (Gives you about another half inch with poly bushings). I cannot personally speak towards rubbing, etc because i have not taken it offroad yet. I can say that others have said that I could do some pretty moderate off roading with 33's on my setup. I will know a hell of a lot more next year.
One thing you are going to want to look at while you do this is the leaf spring plates and the u bolts. The plates IHPA has are 3/8 inch thick and combined with 5/8" u- bolts make for a pretty tough combination. With a 2" lift and stock shackles you will probably be fine with a 2 degree shim, and you will end up with a better driveline angle.
Yep. You'll find out. What'll happen is, as your rear axle crosses up and stuffs that tire, well, the suspension will make the rear tire move toward the rear as well as up. The lugs of your tire will grab the sheet metal lip at the rear. Makes a horrible noise. Doesn't do the sheet metal much good either. My Scout did that with a 4" lift even back when I was running 31" tires.
When I went up to 32s, I pretty much cured the problem by performing some surgery on that problematic edge of inner sheet metal, and also with the addition of much lower and beefier bump stops at all four corners.
At the front, I had to cut the corners off the front fenders. Started shredding the edges of the tires on steep descents.
What height bump stops are you running. I believe I purchased 2" extensions + 2" (4" total) bump stops for the front and 3" bump stops for the rear. Have yet to install them though.
I think I have 3" in the front, with a 3/8" spacer. The rears are more like 4-5". I forget exactly. Pics below show how I determined what I'd need. Or at least verified that I made the right choices. And FYI:
Front suspension: Skyjacker 2.5 inch springs + 5" IHPA shackles.
Rear suspension: Skyjacker 2.5" springs + SJ "helper leafs" + stock 3" shackles
Tires: Cooper STT 32 x 11.5, 15"w
I drove it up on opposing ramps to get it as close to "stuffed" as I could.
Even with SOA I had to lower my bumpstops to keep little 33s from rubbing. I just bolted on some 1.5" or 2" square tube and the stock bumps. Most of the poly ones I've found to be hard as a rock. Patrick, isn't it possible to order 7100s (and Fox's) with custom valving from the mfg?
Not just the up travel. Springs with enough flex and down travel and you need limiting straps so you don't kill your new shocks.
I set my shocks and springs with the CPT kit with 4" poly bump stops that I don't need limit straps. The stock springs don't have enough flex.
Absolutely. The 7100s are made to order. Two- to six-week lead time. You can specify choices from their standard stacks, say 255/70 or 300/100, or you can get really specific with the plate/shim configuration. Same with Fox. At least the 2.0 "Factory"? type, the Emulsion versions. For example, you'd just tell them "For the fronts I want the 10-inch (travel) shocks with the 30/70 valving."
BTW, every shock mfr has its own way/scale of describing the various valve settings. And some don't even use a numbered scale. There's no way to compare one brand with another without a shock dyno. Kind of frustrating. You have to talk to people who've tried this or that, or experiment on your own.
Could be. That might depend a little on how much 'comfort zone' you (or IHPA) have allowed for with shock length, and how you drive. For example, If you're near the edge of running out of shock with the vehicle's off the ground and the axle is hanging in the air, static, might seen like enough. But if you ever charge up a hill and catch a little air, that front axle might snap down a little farther due to inertia. Just saying. might not actually be an issue for you at all. As you said.
You mean like this?