'73 Interabominational Raptorall

Discussion in 'Binder Builds' started by 6BTravelall, May 4, 2020.


  1. 6BTravelall

    6BTravelall Farmall Cub

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    The 24v mounts push the engine back exactly 4 3/4" on a non-storm block 12 valve, the non-storm blocks have only 1 set of mount holes whereas the storm block and 24v blocks have 2 or 3 sets of holes.. the 24v uses a more rear set. These are my scientific findings which could not be retrieved anywhere on the net.
     
  2. 6BTravelall

    6BTravelall Farmall Cub

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    12 valve non-storm block
    6BTSTORMBLOCK-2.jpg
    24v block
    247503_001-r_1.jpg
     
  3. 6BTravelall

    6BTravelall Farmall Cub

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    Here's the hose that was made.. I didn't even notice the guy didn't put the P flare on the end until I had gotten home. Looks like I'll be wasting 2 hrs getting this resolved.. even pointed out initially the P flare.
    20200911_125429.jpg 20200911_125434.jpg
    Let him do the way he wanted too, its very close but thats the tightest 90 dude could get on there.. mount will need some more trimming with a flapdisc
     
  4. winchested

    winchested Y-Block King

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    You could groove 3/4" out of that mount and not hurt it.
     
  5. 6BTravelall

    6BTravelall Farmall Cub

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    Definitely won't need to take that much out but good to know! Called the shop, guy said the flare being different at the end won't make a difference? Doesn't sound right but okay.
     
  6. winchested

    winchested Y-Block King

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    It will make a huge difference
     
  7. Darrel

    Darrel Dreams of Cub Cadets

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    I would flare it. When you pull the hose off the o-ring may remain in the pump.
    You're using hydroboost, but your reservoir only has one return line tube?
     
  8. 6BTravelall

    6BTravelall Farmall Cub

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    Dang, I'll post photos in a bit here hopefully I'm just not explaining it correctly
    It's flared it just doesn't have the flare at the end that holds the o-ring in, yeah my dad had this reservoir laying around, I'll just add a Tee to it directed accordingly (not opposing flow)
     
  9. Darrel

    Darrel Dreams of Cub Cadets

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    Yep that's what I was talking about - nothing to keep the o-ring on if you ever remove the hose.
     
  10. mongocanfly

    mongocanfly High Wheeler

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    I went and looked at my hydroboost lines..it has the little bulb .....pump end has bigger bulb ...booster end barely has any bulb
    1st pic is pump end....2nd pic is booster end
    I've also known some that have had cavitation issues whe teeing the 2 return lines...but some have no issue..most likely a difference in the way they're plumbed In when teeing..
    20200911_231857.jpg 20200911_232011.jpg
     
    Last edited: Sep 11, 2020
  11. 6BTravelall

    6BTravelall Farmall Cub

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    The orifice is only 5/32 that o ring is not going anywhere... i took some measurements of the new hose flare (longer than OEM) it's nearly identical as the depth of the fitting it screws into. I'm planning to roll the dice, guy that made it was an ol' timer and more times than not those guys know whatsup. Cut the mount 3/4" as @winchested said was feasible. Heres a photo of the mount and OEM style (gates) flare. Anyone guarantee this is going to leak and I will hold off.. very tempted to roll the dice ive not gotten much done past 2 weeks. 20200911_220757.jpg
    Ol' timers hose below
    20200911_125434.jpg
     
  12. mongocanfly

    mongocanfly High Wheeler

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    I would think it would be ok as is...but I've never tried it either...
     
  13. mongocanfly

    mongocanfly High Wheeler

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    I would be more concerned with the notch..with it in the shape of a V, it will be more prone to cracking at the bottom of the V..if you can, try to radius the bottom..
    20200912_034831.jpg
     
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  14. RinTX

    RinTX High Wheeler

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    I saw the same thing as mongo. Put a radius on that notch. A V concentrates forces at the tip of the V and starts cracks.
     
  15. Darrel

    Darrel Dreams of Cub Cadets

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    Right, when it's bolted together it won't go anywhere and it shouldn't leak. But when you unscrew the hose fitting nut and pull it out of the pump relief valve the o-ring may slide right off the end of tube and remain in the pump. Not a huge deal as long as you notice it. Just a pain with your tight access. Definitely radius that notch cut.
     
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  16. 6BTravelall

    6BTravelall Farmall Cub

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    Thank you everyone!
     
  17. 6BTravelall

    6BTravelall Farmall Cub

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    I think you guys will like this alot more
    5DD06099-72C2-48C2-BC49-E85260FE52E7.jpeg
     
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  18. Darrel

    Darrel Dreams of Cub Cadets

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    Excellent!
     
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  19. mongocanfly

    mongocanfly High Wheeler

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    Thatll work..!!
     
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  20. 6BTravelall

    6BTravelall Farmall Cub

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    Got the engine set had a number of minor nuisances, exhaust kept binding up (hacked it off), gear selector was in the way, had to hack off transmission heat exchanger bracket, front xmember still needs some clearancing for the compressor, and down pipe/ exhaust brake flange had to ground down.. still real tight there but I'm gonna deal with that later if its an issue. Enjoy my 3.5hrs of sweat from a far:banana:

    Downpipe to firewall clearance
    20200912_161900.jpg
    Going to need to dig into the frame a little more to clear the AC compressor 20200912_161934.jpg
    Driver side mount with the custom PS line, I might actually be able to remove it without removing the mount if necessary
    20200912_162020.jpg
    Gear selector bracket is going to need to be relocated and im assuming modified 20200912_162033.jpg
    It's ugly but had to recess the firewall a few weeks back, paint blistered so it got the rustoleum rattle can treatment, here's the clearance for the exhaust manifold 20200912_162106.jpg
     

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