'73 Interabominational Raptorall

Discussion in 'Binder Builds' started by 6BTravelall, May 4, 2020.


  1. 6BTravelall

    6BTravelall Farmall Cub

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    I sprayed it thru a 2.5mm hvlp so it laid pretty flat, after that I scuffed it with a red scotchbrite pad but yeah man I'm hoping thats not going to be the case. I know on the inside up high I sprayed that raptor pretty thick the installer was complaining about it but that is not in the area of the corner that has the gap.
     
  2. MrKenmore

    MrKenmore Y-Block King

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    I would get some kind of sealant in that gap. Better yet, give it a leak test while you can see behind the dash.

    For the rear quarter glass.....I had used Dow 795 Silicone in black to seal over my very bad gaskets. This was a temp measure. Before I found out there were new gaskets, I wondered if I could caulk the glass in kinda like a new style windshield. I did get the gaskets and will also be going over the bottom and up the sides with a little bit of black glass sealant.
     
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  3. RinTX

    RinTX High Wheeler

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    If you do use a sealant there - I recommend a polyurethane caulk rather than silicone.
     
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  4. J.J.

    J.J. Lives in an IH Dealership

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    The Chinese glass is def not as thick as the stock, I measured between the two once, don't recall what it was. Made me wonder then if there were going to be sealant issues for folks.

    When I had my '73 Travelall painted in 2008, I asked him to use the black windshield sealant in the rear quarter glass. It still looks great, I don't know if it leaks as that truck has not seen water since 2002.

    JJ in TN
     
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  5. MrKenmore

    MrKenmore Y-Block King

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    I think I need to get some good glass polyurethane caulk for my rear quarter glass.
     
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  6. 6BTravelall

    6BTravelall Farmall Cub

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    Great idea and most of you guys responses make me feel pretty dumb "like why didn't I think of that" my stress load IS off the charts right now I should probably stop posting for a bit haha.
     
  7. 6BTravelall

    6BTravelall Farmall Cub

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    I'm going to let the installers know of the gap and see if they'll send someone out to use some adhesive, thanks guys!
     
  8. Greg R

    Greg R Lives in an IH Dealership

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    I think it's the industry, not just China as most if not all glass is sourced over seas. For my 800 I searched for months for a replacement windshield and everything turned up 1/4" thick. The OEM was 9/32". It was loose in the rubber seal, sort of that leaked around the glass at times. This brings up drainage, another sad story. Originally the 800's seal was NOT to have sealant between the frame and rubber, it was free draining similar to a 60s VW for all models. The 1st replacement was done by a shop, and the "pro" sealed it with urethane in the channel frame like a Mustang's glass install. When I removed it 2 years ago to replace the rubber, an aftermarket product I regretted later; the channel had a lot of rot and pitting. I got the new rubber from IHPA and asked about drainage. They said ABSOLUTELY NO sealant for the channel frame. I leveled the pits and preserved with POR-15. I installed the glass and rubber and it went in perfect 1st time. I took it to another shop to have just the glass and rubber interface sealed. It has been perfect since. No bulging corners, no leaks. I also found that there are quality grades in the rubber seals. The best, and somewhat more cost, come from our Light Line vendors such as IHPA. I replaced the windshield in the 71 1210 and also new rubber. The outside rubber to body fit is mostly for looks. The sealing is between the glass and rubber and the rubber seal's inner channel for the fit over the frame's rail or in some cases the pinch weld.

    I would be hesitant about urethane in the body to rubber void. Find out if it does or does not use sealant. I'll bet it doesn't.

    On a side note, talking with some glass shops; the big pain in classic glass replacements from overseas sources is the glass is metric sized. While the rubber can be sourced to OEM dimensions domestically, they are having fits getting the glass to fit properly in frames and rubber on older vehicles. According to them, even a millimeter difference is a headache over the glass's outside and rubber distance vs channel dimension.
     
    Last edited: Aug 5, 2020
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  9. RinTX

    RinTX High Wheeler

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    I would say - if it is supposed to “drain” - then sealing the body to rubber seal across the top and around the sides will still allow it to drain while preventing some significant water intrusion that will occur in gaps like those shown by the OP
     
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  10. 6BTravelall

    6BTravelall Farmall Cub

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    I'm going to call and/ or email IHPA (where I got the seal) and see what their thoughts are. Thanks folks!
     
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  11. 6BTravelall

    6BTravelall Farmall Cub

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    Decided to do it right and scoot the engine back, had to recess a small bit of the pass. side firewall 20200806_003033.jpg all welded up, the raptor (EGC101) on the interior held up surp well to the heat from a MIG 20200811_231932.jpg My dad donated a 40 gallon tank from an '88 'burb w. 77k, fits real nice back where the spare tire was mounted under the dodge bed. Removed the original sound deadener, degreased it, sanded it, wiped it down, painted flat black, slapped on some butyl deadener, and sprayed 2 cans of rustoleum pro undercoating.. this thing now sounds like a plastic tank! 20200811_095206.jpg Got a little acquainted with the 12 valve, 240k and KDP has not been done yet.. yikes! This truck was serviced regularly at the stealership.. I'm surprised they never took care of it.. 20200811_230058.jpg I've been sitting on a KDP block and timing cover gasket kit pretty much since day 1 of owning the truck. Picked up an engine hoist to get the engine mounts out, they will be going to a welding shop to be redone in order to scoot the engine back 5" and just received Energy Suspension engine mount inserts. Planning to ditch the mech fan or have it clutchless mounted to the hub havent decided yet.. also removing the original radiator it appears there is a small leak so a new radiator, hoses, and coolant are in order.. sidenote the coolant flow of the 12 valve will allow me to just run 1 heater core shutoff valve without worry of backflow into the heatercore.
     
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  12. 6BTravelall

    6BTravelall Farmall Cub

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    Stop! Maintenance time :banana::bananrap::wrenching:
    20200819_133842.jpg
    This oil pan is a beast! 32" long, 32 bolts (+4 for oil pickup) 20200819_135722.jpg
     
  13. MrKenmore

    MrKenmore Y-Block King

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    I liked your MC Hammer joke! I like those maintenance days. You get all the parts and gather them up. I had a similar pic for my Terra brakes. Boxes and parts all over the kitchen counter!
     
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  14. 6BTravelall

    6BTravelall Farmall Cub

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    Didnt think anyone would catch that haha. Nice to have small things like that to do when its so darn hot out even 10pm, when I'm usually in the garage, has been unbearable the past couple of weeks. Ive got about 5 1/4" until engine would be against the firewall, just picked up 98.5-02 24 valve mounts and looks like they will actually scoot the engine back 4 3/4" which is exactly what I was aiming for, these babies are going in tonight.. super stoked!
     
  15. 6BTravelall

    6BTravelall Farmall Cub

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    Engines been scooted back, getting the trans xmember to pop loose was fun.. its kind of a channeled press fit (best way I can explain it) anyhow ended up going with 24 valve mounts and ironically they scoot the engine back the perfect amount, 4 3/4", however.... now PS lines are in the way.. i thought maybe I'll need a 24v PS pump but it's the same pump.. 24v uses a different set of holes in the block. Heres what I'm currently dealing with.. 20200903_231558.jpg closer look, this line is running hard on my ES inserts.. not gonna fly and not sure what to do about it 20200903_231612.jpg
    This hose was completely in the way and had to be removed for the mount to bolt up 20200903_231620.jpg
    I'm guessing I will have to have the new line custom bent or custom made..
     
  16. 6BTravelall

    6BTravelall Farmall Cub

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    Picked up a new PS reservoir that return clears the mount, high pressure line is the problem.. went to 3 hose shops and all 3 of them basically told me to bend over. IMG_0320.jpg IMG_0321.jpg IMG_0323.jpg the gold square on top of the mount is basically center of the high pressure fitting, it would have to be trimmed wider and deeper for clearance.. from fitting to mount ive got about 1" clearance.. anyone have any ideas? This is holding me up and I'm beyond frustrated with it.
     

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  17. MrKenmore

    MrKenmore Y-Block King

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    What style hose is it? On the ends I mean. Do you have a pic? Could the shops make something and the price was crazy? I just had a PS hose made for my Terra. $120. No clearance issues. It's a one off single year metric hose for the 4 cylinder so no aftermarket parts.
     
  18. mongocanfly

    mongocanfly High Wheeler

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    Well, I can tell you from experience that making hydraulic lines ain't cheap..about the only thing I can think of is a banjo fitting , thatll be the lowest profile fitting possible..
    You were saying you changed motor mounts, what's the difference between them? old vs new
     
  19. RinTX

    RinTX High Wheeler

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    It’s the reservoir- can you move it? Somehow divorce it from the pump?
     
  20. 6BTravelall

    6BTravelall Farmall Cub

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    The photo I posted Sept. 4th is the only one I have but its a P flare, 2 of the 3 shops couldnt even order the fittings they told me. Third shop wanted about what you paid to make me an adapter, I'm taking it to a shop in Phoenix that say they can make anything today so fingers crossed.
    I was thinking banjo initially but they're not rated for the 1550psi spikes hydroboost can push out. Old 12 valve mounts
    s-l400 (1).jpg
    Newer 24 valve mounts
    s-l400 (2).jpg
    Was thinking something like this with some rubber hose wrapped around it, it would sit inside of the I beam style mount, but it would probably end up leaking
    Screenshot_20200910-215810_Chrome.jpg
    The saginaw reservoir takes up minimal space, the whole pump can be moved if I wanted to delete the vacuum pump (connected in tandem) it gives alow of clearance but that brings on having to setup a remote vacuum system.. almost went that route. Im fairly positive the shop I'm going to today will be able to resolve the issue.. Hopefully I dont have to reach too deep! Funny thing is the hydroboost to steering gear hose would work except the nut is incorrect.. so I'm going to bring that and have it made for the pump to hydroboost hose.

    Thanks guys, seems if I post on here it calms some frustration lol
     

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