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Discussion in 'Binder Builds' started by 6BTravelall, May 4, 2020.
74/75 is 120" per the below sales literature.
Yes. If you are going to be using larger tires, I recommend targeting the later, 120" measurement. At 119", the tires tend to contact the front edge of the wheel well first. When I did my lift on my 73, I offset the axle back one inch. When compressed, it centers the wheel almost perfectly in the opening. If you are planning on keeping the entire Dodge frame and undercarriage, it might be worth comparing the rear spring arch measurements and SWAGing the comparative wheel arcs as the springs droop and compress.
I appreciate it, I'm running 33s, probably largest I'll go is 35s.. let's say we shortened it to 119.5 wouldn't i be able to move the axle easily to fine tune it? I'm mostly concerned with firewall clearance, I want to make sure the engine is not too close or too far away.. I'd like to keep the mechanical fan setup.
35's are getting into the danger zone for an uncut T'all. The wheel wells are VERY tall, but not all that wide or long. I've sized mine for pizza cutter 36's, and they "should" fit, but it's going to be snug. As far as moving the axle, I'm not familiar enough with the Dodge chassis to have an opinion about moving the spring mounts. As an alternative ORD has some really nifty "Zero Rate" lift blocks that allow the axle to be offset either 1" or 1 1/2", so that would mean a 120" base could be adjusted from 118 1/2" to 121 1/2".
I know the dodge frame gives it a bit of a lift but yeah I measured the width of the wheel wells and they're hardly over 35" I'm new to the 4x4 and lead spring world but by the looks of it I could unmount the axle and shift it some if needed. I have learned always use new U-bolts.. just unsure if its kosher to move the axle like that but those leafs are HUGE so I'd imagine a half inch or so wouldnt be a problem
Since you admit that you are new to the leafspring world: Are you accounting for the centering pin in the spring packs? You are correct that moving things a little bit is certainly possible, but it's not just a matter of loosening the U bolts and shifting it. Either you need to use some new spring perches with offset holes, like these: https://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/catalog/springperchantiwrap.html Or you need to use something like the ORD product in my other post. The ORD blocks use the center pin bolt to attach to the leaf spring pack, so you don't have to weld on new spring perches. The alternatives are to either move the entire spring pack, which requires moving both the spring and shackle mounts on the frame, or to get custom springs with the pin offset. Depending on the geometry of the frame, you might be able to move the spring mounts fore/aft quite cheaply and easily, it all depends on the details of the Dodge frame. Custom springs are the most expensive way to go, and almost certainly not worth it for this application.
I have not accounted for the centering pin on the perches, I'll run it by the dude helping me shorten the frame. $45 bux each is not bad will definitely look into it if the need arises
Good thing we aimed for 120, ended up at 119.5"
Man I hope I dont lose my 35 gallon tank, not to certain it's going to fit.
I bet THAT got a few looks on the way back from the shop, LOL!!!
I can think of a few ways to beat the fuel tank problem, 3 stock tanks give ~50 gallons useable, even more if you go with dual quarter panel tanks. The return line is a complication, but not an insurmountable one.
That right theres a shorty short..!!
Haha probably but I only noticed 1 guy on a Harley trying to figure out what the hell he was seeing. I'm hoping the tank will fit nice and snug underneath the doors on the outside of the frame, my buddy has a 67 Travellall with 2 custom 60 gallon tanks in that area.. I'm planning to put the batteries in the rear fuel tank/ spare tire compartments.
2 60gal tanks?..wow...
Yeah it's a beast, he's got about 20 personal project vehicles on his property all with 12 valves, 24 valves, 6.7s, and 7.3 PSDs
Got the dodge tore apart, everything except AC and main harness is disconnected from the firewall
For a mechanical diesel this thing sure has a lot of wiring, dash just about out.. tired of fighting with that for the night
Sorry to bring dodge drama to an IH but good God that has to be the worst dash design in the history of mankind, I challenge anyone to show me a more difficult dash! I was actually thinking about keeping this truck and finding another 12 valve donor.. after the dash removal I am glad I didnt.
I had to take the dash out of my Jeep Cherokee to fix a leaking heater core. What a pita.
Progress! Sold quite a bit of dodge body so turned my customers into workers and got that cab around back.. the kids love their new hideout.
Fingers crossed tomorrow getting pedal assembly and steering column from the dodge installed then plop the Travelall body onto the frame.
Pedal assembly, sterring column, and hydroboost sandwich plate all been swapped over, fab guys coming Thursday or Friday to plate the frame, weld up new rear xmember, plop the body on, and fab new body mounts... hoping I'm wrong but from my quick measurements looks like I'll be scooting the engine back 3-4 inches (not losing the intercooler) time will tell..
Shot Upol EGC101 on the interior roof the other day, scuffed that up tonight, after cab is set I will experiment with a few adhesives to see what works best adhering denim insulation to "raptor"
Started working on the brittle brown dodge dash, opened up the din and a half to double din and will backfill the voids with Evercoat fibertech then spray the bezel with SEM trim black.
Picked up an experimental can of Duplicolor vinyl dash paint (medium gray) I think it's a tad dark and will end up underneath some SEM marine light grey. Photo is backside of my glove box with a smear of the gray I mixed up for the interior raptor to match the seats.
Having a tough time deciding where to mount speakers, going with all pioneer (double din, (2) 3-way 6.5s and (2) 4-way 6x9s
Going to have a beat up grill for a little while, if anyone has a nice 69-70 or 72-73 grill they'd like to trade for a nice 74-75 let me know.
@Rollercam picked up these LEDs from Amazon 75.99 "Yeego Direct" they have the built in blinkers if anyone's looking for something similar https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B082W731X9?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title