68 C1100 Exhaust help/questions.

Discussion in 'General IH Tech' started by bubs_42, Mar 26, 2020 at 10:18 AM.


  1. bubs_42

    bubs_42 Farmall Cub

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    I found myself with a little time on my hands and decided to keep myself busy and dig into a few issues with my Binder. I bought this 68 last year and i'm trying to work the bugs out. This weeks project is freeze plugs, oil change and cleaning up the exhaust.

    Exhaust Passenger Side: I did get everything apart up to the manifolds that is the good thing. The passenger side had wire wrapped around the bolts and the heat riser. After getting it apart I found a donut, a heat riser that had been split in half and welded (no gasket), and a thick exhaust pipe mounting flange that had the ears broken off (hole spread was also not correct), and the down pipe is cracked at the flange and was not tight in the rest of the exhaust. The exhaust manifold face feels smooth until you get out to the outer ears.
    Exhaust Driver Side: Dot as bad, I will have to replace the bolts (everything I took off to be safe) , the manifold although it was tight, does not look as good or feel as good as the passenger side.

    Resolution Passenger side? I"m looking for the path of least resistance, but i'm not sure what do do with the passenger side. I figure, I need a heat riser, heat riser gasket, exhaust pipe mounting flange, mounting bolts and see if I can find the down pipe somewhere on the shelf?

    Resolution Driver side? New bolts, the exhaust mounting flange is bent but its on the welded side with no way to get it off. The truck only really made any noise on the passenger side, this side was tight.

    Here are some pictures, I still need to run it all the way out the back. This is just how it came and what I have to work with. I just want to know if i'm missing anything or should I take the first part of it and have somebody make me a new one?

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  2. 1975IH200

    1975IH200 Y-Block King

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    Passenger side: you need a heat river valve, a donut and a gasket.
    You can take the old down pipe to an exhaust shop and have it duplicated to fit your new heat riser.
    I use a local shop that is owner owned and operated, a one-man shop. Not the chain exhaust shops.
    Remove both exhaust manifolds and file the mating surfaces flat and smooth.
    Install new exhaust manifold gaskets to the cylinder head mating surface. Anti-seize on the bolt threads.
     
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  3. bubs_42

    bubs_42 Farmall Cub

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    That down pipe cracked that the seam, most likely because they used that thick steel flange to draw it up. I put the pipe back on the rest of the exhaust like in the picture and realized that the reason it was loos is because it isn't long enough. I'll have to do a little research and see if I can get a recommendation on a small muffler shop.
    None of the IH Parts websites seem to have the Heat Riser in stock, does anybody know one that does?
     
  4. 1975IH200

    1975IH200 Y-Block King

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    Super Scout Specialists in Ohio used to sell them as well as the gasket and donut.
    You can check their website.
    I doubt these parts are IH specific as IH utilized standard industry components from the automotive industry that supplied GM, Chrysler, AMC and Ford etc. The exhaust shop may have these items too.
     
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  5. bubs_42

    bubs_42 Farmall Cub

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    Thanks, i'll do some more digging.
     
  6. sdhachey

    sdhachey Farmall Cub

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    I'm not a fan of the heat riser, they just seem to deteriorate and cause everything else to get too hot and deteriorate. Make the passenger's side as simple as the driver's side. Just my recommendation, based on experience, take with a grain of salt. Good luck.
     
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  7. bubs_42

    bubs_42 Farmall Cub

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    I'm not sure if I care if it works or not. This one obviously did not and I have read the threads on the pros and cons. I just want to be able to put it back as simple as I can, so if I can get an non working one that I can gut and use it for a spacer then I will go that route.
     
  8. bubs_42

    bubs_42 Farmall Cub

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    Most of everything is on order, now I just need to track down used, just not as abused heat riser. I did find a local shop that does all their own exhaust work. I'm going to see if I can get this pipe down to them tomorrow and have one made.
     
  9. wjajr

    wjajr Binder Driver

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    Heat riser when working correctly heats the underside of carburetor and portions of intake manifold after cold start. Heated intake aids in drivability by helping keep atomized fuel in suspension while traveling to intake valve. A cold intake will condense fuel onto its walls and floor causing a lean mixture condition, and in some cases icing due to temperature and humidity conditions which kill fuel economy, and drivability.

    A new heat riser should work correctly for years to come, All they need is a little high temperature lubrication such as graphite to keep moving freely. The problem comes after that device has been in use for 50 years, and its shafts are all egged out causing binding, or they haven't been maintained and become stuck or stiff unable to open and close by its bi-metal spring. Springs for these devices cam be found in 'old Chevy truck parts' catalogs such as "Chevs of the 40's":

    https://www.chevsofthe40s.com/shop/search.lasso?partno=602799&Go=Go
    https://www.chevsofthe40s.com/detai...st_Manifold_Heat_Riser_Spring_Thermostat.html

    I used 602799 on my 241 six's heat riser as its spring was missing when I got the truck, but the flapper valve moved freely. Have not started the engine yet, truck is a rolling chassis less cab and bed at the moment, but it should work just fine. Someone here tipped me off to this repair a year or two ago, can't recall who at the moment.

     
  10. bubs_42

    bubs_42 Farmall Cub

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    Well the one I have is not going back in, and it seams that I cannot get a new one from any of our IH Vendors. All on Back Order or they don't carry them. All three motors that I have sitting had them knocked out in their lifetime.
     
  11. Jeff Jamison

    Jeff Jamison Lives in an IH Dealership

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    You could get dual exhaust made,then when you get a new heat riser,just put it in.
     

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