'67 Scout 800 Build

Discussion in 'Binder Builds' started by nozmokey, Dec 3, 2014.


  1. oneof3k

    oneof3k Binder Driver

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    What to you mean by "if it goes anywhere"! I expect to see it up in Evergreen to show off your (and Dom's) hard work sometimes this spring/summer :yes:. Paint optional. Really nice work to date!
     
  2. nozmokey

    nozmokey Farmall Cub

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    Thanks Ed, it could happen. Not a lot of huge things left in reality. We'll set it as a target.
    -Steve
     
  3. Alex

    Alex Farmall Cub

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    noz:
    Is the boy still helping you?
    I hope you imparted some building into him.
    or good or ill...
     
  4. nozmokey

    nozmokey Farmall Cub

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    Turns out the project is taking longer than expected. Anyone see that coming? Anyhow, the boy does help when he's home from college (wasn't in college when we started) and was pretty excited when he realized that I had sorted out the brakes and driveshaft and what that meant. Think we'll push hard this summer to get it on the road and he is definitely picking things up, hopefully they come in handy later in life.
    Steve
     
    Last edited: Mar 24, 2019
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  5. nozmokey

    nozmokey Farmall Cub

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    I cut the e-brake brackets off and moved them to accommodate the Scout II cable. Only one place to mount them on the 800 frame so I put them there.
    Started on the wiring harness. Picked up a universal one off the internets and got the fuse panel mounted up on the firewall. Then started looking at the dash and disassembled that and realized the gauges were looking tired. Saw heyyouguys do a resto on some gauges and a little research suggested I could give it a go too. I had checked them all for functionality and they were working and figured it was cheaper than getting new ones. Prying off the crimp was a little nerve wracking but go through all of them. Painted the needles red and cleaned/polished up the rest and they turned out pretty nice. The amp gauge needed some black paint on the face and did that with a q-tip. Need to clean up and paint the dash now. Just keep making more work for myself.
    Some before and afters.
    -Steve
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    Last edited: Apr 7, 2019
  6. oneof3k

    oneof3k Binder Driver

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    Those gauges turned out real nice Steve. Real nice! Besides saving a few pennies over new ones, you now have bragging rights. And you're helping save the Earth! Next up is that hybrid system :flowers:?
     
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  7. Don B

    Don B Farmall Cub

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    Very nice!
     
  8. nozmokey

    nozmokey Farmall Cub

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    Thanks Don. Little elbow grease goes a long way I guess.
    Ed, the engineer in me says yes! but the budget committee doesn't care what he says. And I have to live with the budget committee. Maybe after she gets her next cruise.
    Steve
     
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  9. nozmokey

    nozmokey Farmall Cub

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    Got that wiring harness installed. Mostly. It went in pretty smooth and only needed a couple of mods and Scout service manual to get it in. I was pretty pleased with the harness for $95. All the wires were labeled and used stranded copper, included the fuse panel, flashers, head light connectors, instructions, GM style steering column connector, high beam switch plug, and an Alt connector. There are some extra circuits that I kept in case I need them for something down the road. I have a feeling this project will continue in perpetuity. Everything works but it looks like my temp sending unit is bad. It;s reading open on cold. The oil sending unit reads 78 ohms which seems to be ballpark.. I think. I got some new sockets of the backup lights bit saved most everything else. Picked up a packard 56 series terminal remover (small flathead screwdriver in essence) and pulled the wire from a lot of connectors and will be reusing them. I will be organizing the harness under the dash and getting everything serviceable.

    Anyone know where to get a connector for the reverse switch connecting to the transmission? I have the transmission side, need the other.

    Next is to bleed the brake system from the MC on down.
    Pics or it didn't happen right?
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  10. Don B

    Don B Farmall Cub

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    Hi Nozmokey, I have a couple of questions. Firstly, how did you get the chrome ring off the guages so you could clean them? Second, you mentioned using a Scout II emergency cable set-up. Can you provide any details on this. I only have the mid body support (which is badly bent) and the outer sheaves only for the rear cable so have to get all of the cabling and other parts if I go OEM or maybe the Scout II setup is the way to go. Some pics would be great!

    Thanks!
     
  11. nozmokey

    nozmokey Farmall Cub

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    Hi Don. The bezels are crimped on so I got a small flat bladed screw driver and carefully started prying it up from the back. I took about 3 passes going around the back and only moving a bit at a time. Going slow and only prying a bit at a time seemed to be important. To put it back on I just reversed the process. I started it with a pair of channel-locks to get it folded over and then finished it under an arbor press with some shop towels to protect the chrome. The back of the crimp doesn't look stock but you never see it so...
    The cable I did like this and I'll caveat that it's not done but I do think it'll work out. Pretty straight forward actually.
    Here you can see where I moved the mounts up on the frame and this puts the cable up over the springs. If you go this route, you need to make sure to take all the weight off the springs to get full droop since the axle is now moving down away from teh cable brackets instead of in an arc.
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    Then the cable is still under the driveshaft from this angle. I need to shorten the cable which I'll do on one end. That last thing I need to do is make/find an adjuster that attaches to the cross member

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    That's it. Like I said, it's not done but I think all the angles work out. If it does work (it should) I'll post an update.
    -Steve
     
  12. Don B

    Don B Farmall Cub

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    Ok, the cable bracket relocation makes sense. Of course I just POR’ed mine on the weekend. Thanks for the in depth reply.
     
  13. nozmokey

    nozmokey Farmall Cub

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    I found a new filler neck and cap. The cap assembly came from https://www.fillernecksupply.com/ and is self venting. They shipped quick and the cap seems to be good quality. The cap fits right over the existing hole and covers the mounting holes too. Had to drill some new holes but that was easy. Also the holes in the cap weren't quite big enugh for the screws they sold me with it but aluminum is easy to drill out. The flex hose I got some the local autoparts store. I had gone in back to find a rad hose that would work and saw this sitting back there. You have to muscle it to make the turn but it won't collapse on itself. They sell it by the inch at abut $1.29 or something. You need about 9" to replace the stock filler neck.

    Now I think my gauges don't actually work like they should. Fuel gauge seems fine but I put a pot on the temp and oil gauge and each was either pegged low or pegged high. This isn't right, correct?


    -Steve
    PIcs of the filler setup.
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  14. nozmokey

    nozmokey Farmall Cub

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    Got my steering column and shaft setup. Ended up using 2 u-joints, one on each end. 3/4" 36 spline at the steering box and 3/4" DD and teh other end went 3/4" DD to 1" DD to mate up to the steering column. It was a 32" GM style column off ebay. Seems to be pretty decent quality so far. had to put a 3/8" hole to use the stock mounting hardware. I located the hole 4-7/8" down from the bell on the column. It came with a 9 hole adapter with adds another couple inches so I'll need to find a wheel that is pretty shallow. Any recommendations?
    A step forward comes with a couple steps back right.... Need to reconnectorize nearly all of my brake lines. went to bleed the brakes and had leaks all over the place. I am going to rerun the lines with the copper nickel stuff. I had used armorshield or something and the crappy flare tool I had, made about half the flares. The other half not so much.
    -Steve
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  15. nozmokey

    nozmokey Farmall Cub

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    Got all the brake lines remade in copper nickel tubing and bled the lines and nothing leaks.... except the wheel cylinders in both rear brakes. So those need to be replaced. Also got a look at the end of the e-brake cable. I've got a swaging tool and will be adding an aluminum ferrule on the end of it once I cut it down to length.
    That's all. Just reporting that one job always leads to another and this thing will never see the outside of the garage.
    Cheers,
    Steve
     
  16. oneof3k

    oneof3k Binder Driver

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    Is the Cu Ni tubing the stuff that's somewhat soft/easy to bend relative to steel? I used some type of brake line when I added disc brakes to our travel trailer last year and I could bend it by hand. Although it did not look as nice as if I used my bending tool.

    No sh!t on the former and I'll place a wager against the Scout staying inside the garage past this summer on the latter!
     
  17. nozmokey

    nozmokey Farmall Cub

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    Yeah, the CuNi stuff gets "wavier" and just doesn't look as clean but is a lot easier to work. Glad I went over to it.

    Yeah, setting expectations low so I can surprise myself.
    Picked up the cylinders on the way home today and will have it done this weekend. My better half is out of the town this weekend so I get some quality garage time.
    -Steve
     
  18. nozmokey

    nozmokey Farmall Cub

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    Got some garage time and financing authorizations from the CFO. As a result I found some 33.5x12.5 on 15x10.5 wheels. The tires won't last too ling but will make it mobile in the garage and should go down the local road at least.

    Also picked up some weld in inserts and 1-ton TRE to make a drag link. For that I used 1.5"-0.25 walled DOM and made some bends it to clear my springs. I think it should hold up until I go hi-steer. One thing I'm noticing is that I can't turn full left as the setup is since flipping the drag link puts the TRE on the link too close to the tire rod and it's contacting. An offset TRE on the tie rod would work but I can't find one that would be a direct replacement for the existing Scout II tie rod. Anyone done something like this?

    Lastly picked up a new steering wheel from summitracing and got that installed. Since the old column was fixed in the dash and at the steering box it didn't move around but since I have 2 u-joints in between I need to work out a way to fix the column, probably somewhere near the firewall I'm thinking. Anyone already do this?
    Gratuitous pics.
    -Steve

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  19. oneof3k

    oneof3k Binder Driver

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    It's always nice to have the CFO "open" her wallet here and there! I'm overly thankful that my money momma generally supports my habits, probably so I spend more time in the garage vs. in her hair! But it's getting closer to the end of the summer and I have yet to see you drive it up for a visit?

    BTW, I really like the stance, especially with the new wheels/tires.
     
  20. nozmokey

    nozmokey Farmall Cub

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    Yeah, fall's right around the corner.... but .... that's when I do my best work. Still need an exhaust and some odds and ends but I can see the end in sight. Thanks on the stance. Not exactly stock but it'll do. I think I will need some steps...er....rock sliders though. It's a long way up there.
    -Steve
     

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