'67 Scout 800 Build

Discussion in 'Binder Builds' started by nozmokey, Dec 3, 2014.


  1. oneof3k

    oneof3k Farmall Cub

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    While you have a butt-load of traffic in the Parker area, it's still nothing like the Left Coast! Glad you're sticking around Steve. And that's a very nice fab job for your adjustable bracket.

    I don't think I thanked you for the bumpers you sold me last fall. Here they are (along with my two) with a bit of "shoe shine"!!!

    Bumper chromed1.jpg
     
  2. nozmokey

    nozmokey Farmall Cub

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    I'm glad they ended up with you because that's more than a bit of shine Ed. Those look great. Probably better than new.
    And yeah, happy to still be in CO. CA, specifically the LA area, has other issues aside from traffic.
    -Steve
     
  3. nozmokey

    nozmokey Farmall Cub

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    It's alive. Had a bad fuel pump and replaced that. Still have a leak at the carb I need to take care of but it's running and turns right over. The alternator bracket worked out and there is plenty of room to tension. If anyone builds it exactly the same way it's a 56-5/8" belt.
    Next is the electrical, body work, drive shafts, clutch, drag link, brake work, new steering column, etc...


    -Steve
     
    Last edited: Aug 4, 2018
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  4. oneof3k

    oneof3k Farmall Cub

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    All just trivial stuff :scooter:.
     
  5. nozmokey

    nozmokey Farmall Cub

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    I've been doing some work. Got the front axle reassembled with new bearings and now have a question.
    Since the 800 I had was a drum/drum setup I picked up a new MC and have that fitted in place but the distribution/proportioning block for disc/drum I don't have. Do I need this block or can I run full pressure to the fronts and then put an adjustable valve running to the back or is that block doing more than I think it's doing?
    -Steve
     
  6. nozmokey

    nozmokey Farmall Cub

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    I think I'll post the brake question over in the main forum for the visibility.
    Got some more work done. My 800 had the 152 and the mechanical clutch linkage was bolted to the left side of the block, where the other head is now so that won't work exactly the same.
    I did find a bolt hole on the back of the left head with nothing in it in the right spot so cut up some angle iron, drilled a couple of holes and came up with this. Fortunately there are some castings that will keep the bracket from spinning on the one hole. I drove out the roll pin on the end of the rod and when I get a fresh clutch installed will adjust the rotation of the end piece and drill a new hole and put a new roll pin back in. This still gives me the adjustment at the pedal. Any thoughts as to why this won't work?
    -Steve

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  7. Wombat

    Wombat Farmall Cub

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    Steve, these body mounts are great, my mid-body mounts are bent also and I think I will copy your design. However, I don't understand how you fit the taller tubes? The 2x3 seemed to match the stock height but I assume these 4x6 would be taller. Have you lifted all the body mounts?

    Thanks,
    Sean
     
  8. nozmokey

    nozmokey Farmall Cub

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    Hi Sean,
    THe tubs and frames for factory 4cyl vs V8 were different and I was putting a 4cyl tub on a V8 frame to accommodate the new engine. The stock V8 essentially has a body lift over the 4Cyl and that meant the body mounts on my 4 cyl tub sat higher in the body and I needed taller mounts. The 2x3 would have great except for this.
    -Steve
     
  9. tx63conv

    tx63conv Farmall Cub

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    Steve-

    Going back a ways in your posts—you removed the inner fenders and core support from the V8 body and welded them to the I4 body? My understanding was that only the core support needed to be transferred from the V8 body to the 4 cyl body. I thought I had read that there were some differences in locations of things between the two (particularly the battery tray) but I thought the width of clearance between the fenders was the same?

    I am putting a 4 cyl body on a donor V8. I had read about the mid body mounts on frame being different—I thought they were further back.

    I am very early in this process. Dismantling the donor V8 into salvageable pieces and have the 4 cylinder body in storage for now.

    Progress looks awesome. I will be following this thread.
     
  10. oneof3k

    oneof3k Farmall Cub

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    Do you think engine (torque) movement could affect the clutch rod? Otherwise seems like a great idea!
     
  11. nozmokey

    nozmokey Farmall Cub

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    There's a good pic of the two fenders in the post below. I couldn't find a clear shot in my archives but yeah, they are the same on width. The battery tray moves across the engine bay from pass to driver and from in front of core support to behind it. I moved the whole inner fender because I had both and it was less welding/fabricating. YOu will need to modify the fender on the drivers side slightly to fit a battery tray I think. The V8 has a recess for it there. Not sure if hood clearance is an issue otherwise. THe other thing to note is the steering box is in a difference position, mounted outside vs inside and moved slightly to the rear on the on the V8 frame so the length of the steering column changes.
    http://www.binderplanet.com/forums/...8-cylinder-vs-4-cylinder.136401/#post-1010848

    I think it should be ok. It spins free and the bushing the rod mounts in has probably 15 degrees of play. We'll see how it goes.
    Thanks,
    Steve
     
  12. tx63conv

    tx63conv Farmall Cub

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    Thanks Steve. I read that thread and saved several of the pics. I need to re-look at the two bodies in person to better understand. The build looks great!
     
  13. nozmokey

    nozmokey Farmall Cub

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    Thanks. Here's another good link in case you didn't see it. Confirms the mid body mount being in a different spot. I had to replace the mounts on the frame and I guess I didn't notice the move. Good reference here though for sure.
    http://www.binderplanet.com/forums/index.php?threads/scout-800-frame-differences.70380/
     
  14. Wombat

    Wombat Farmall Cub

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  15. nozmokey

    nozmokey Farmall Cub

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    Been taking some time off this week. Built a new cherry platform bed for the wife and got some work done on the Scout.
    Since I had no idea what kind of fan shroud would fit given the 4 years worth of parts in this truck (1967, 1969, 1972 and 1974) I figured it would be safest to make my own. Fortunately a while back my wife made me get rid of an old wooden barrel that used to have some flowers in it but I saved the hoops. One was just about the right size for the fan which is 18" so I made the hoop 20" for clearance.
    [​IMG]
    After I had that I needed a frame to mount it and the rest of the shroud to and since I don't have a metal brake, I broke out some square tubing, a hammer and some clamps. Not perfect but it did the job.
    [​IMG]

    Once I had those pieces I laid everything out on the radiator and did my best to locate the center of the fan. Unfortunately the hoop only hit the frame in 2 spots so I needed to add some additional material before I could check it out on the truck. It ended up being pretty close but I had to open up the mounting holes on the frame a touch to get the same clearance around the whole fan. Also had to chop some of the hoop off the bottom to add clearance for the balancer.

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    The frame was was 1-1/8" tall and one thing I had to do was to slope it down about 1/4" at the corner where the inlet is. The 1-1/8" came up just the underside so there was not room for the hose or clamp. It ended up taking just 3 filler pieces to complete. The one shown up there ^, a small triangle in the corner and the sliver moon piece near the top.
    It ended up coming out pretty good. Took most of the day. I hit it with some black paint and I think am going to caulk around the inside with seam sealer or similar instead of running a weld bead around the whole thing.
    I dropped it in and have good clearances all around.
    [​IMG]

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  16. nozmokey

    nozmokey Farmall Cub

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    Took care of a couple things this weekend. Ordered new TRE (PN MOG-ES2052R and MOG-ES2053R) for the front end. The tie rod I'm using is off a Scout II because the axles are from a II, and the pass side TRE was threaded all the way in. Long story short, the Scout II tie rod uses one fine thread (18 TPI) and one coarse thread (12 TPI) TRE because the dip in the tie rod needs to face down so it's not adjjusted by turning the center piece, but independent adjustments on each side. I almost returned the TRE because the first box I opened had 12 TPI and only the driver's side TRE with the 18 TPI thread was showing. Thanks to this site for cluing me in on that and saving some shipping $$.
    Also picked up a air cleaner for the 304 with a 2300 (5-1/8" carb). Again thanks to the site I knew I needed an offset base if going with a 14" cleaner so I found a 2" version at SummitRacing that fits right nice, SUM-239422 if you're in need of one.
    Also started some body work. Using the Rage Utlra. Sets up really quick if using the recommended amount of hardener. I'm using < 1/2 and still working only in small areas. Not sure how my skills are, being my first time, and am leaning towards a flat gray paint to hide some sins. The big areas you see are from where I had to patch in a pre-fabbed panel and the door skin was replaced so there's work all around the edge of the door. Both miserable work and kind of therapeutic at the same time.
    Work continues.
    -Steve

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  17. nozmokey

    nozmokey Farmall Cub

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    So I installed the clutch and transmission and realized the clutch level needs to move directly down and the clutch pedal moves to the back of the truck with the new setup I found. I found the clutch pedal setup from the donor V8 vehicle and rebuilt that and installed it. It needed some work and found a piece of pipe with the same ID as the OD on the pedal arm to patch it up. After that I cut the arm off of the bellcrank (the one in the bell housing) and welded it back on at a better angle to get motion to the back of the truck. Also worked on the adjustment part of the linkage at the pedal. The PO had welded it together solid when the old welds broke so I scavenged a bit and got one working assembly. Next I need to cut down the linkage from the pedal to the bell crank. The offset is correct but now it's too long.
    FYI, the clutch fork is woodruff keyed to the shaft so don't try to use the bell housing as a poiint of leverage to push the fork off.


    Gratuitous pics to follow.
    -Steve

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    All welded up.
    [​IMG]
    V8 donor clutch pedal installed. May still need to fix the far end to the block to help with rigidity.

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    The arm on the right had to be rotated up by about 45 degrees to allow the current clutch pedal to release the clutch.
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    In this position the arm outside of the bellhousing used to be pointing straight back.
    [​IMG]
     
  18. nozmokey

    nozmokey Farmall Cub

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    So my previous attempt at getting the clutch linkage set came up a bit short. The linkage fit but there was too much play in the end of the rod as I suspected so I faked together a bracket to keep that end fixed. More of the pipe with the right ID and the piece of angle iron from the previous attempt and I got it. Had to add an inch to the connecting rod but that's the beauty of metal vs wood. You can always add on a little. So long story short, I can adjust my clutch pedal and get the clutch to disengage fully. Eureka!!!
    Pics to follow.
    -Steve
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