'67 Scout 800 Build

Discussion in 'Binder Builds' started by nozmokey, Dec 3, 2014.


  1. nozmokey

    nozmokey Farmall Cub

    Joined:
    Oct 3, 2014
    Messages:
    152
    Likes Received:
    37
    Trophy Points:
    28
    Location:
    Parker, CO
    Thanks. We've got a Napa with old guys in it here in town too. We'll stop up there first and then to the interwebs if that fails.
    Steve
     
  2. nozmokey

    nozmokey Farmall Cub

    Joined:
    Oct 3, 2014
    Messages:
    152
    Likes Received:
    37
    Trophy Points:
    28
    Location:
    Parker, CO
    I mentioned we are going to rebuild a 2210 but am wondering, after some of the reading I've been doing if it would be a better idea to find a 2300 and rebuild that. I've read that the 2210 can be tough to tune an it has the charcoal canister and a bunch of vacuum tubes I'd rather not deal with.
    Thoughts?
    -Steve
     
  3. jbraziel

    jbraziel Farmall Cub

    Joined:
    Jan 1, 2017
    Messages:
    142
    Likes Received:
    63
    Trophy Points:
    28
    Location:
    Paris, TX
    It'd be 2300 for me hands down. Maybe personal bias from having more experience and better luck with them.
     
  4. j_burton

    j_burton Farmall Cub

    Joined:
    Mar 10, 2015
    Messages:
    234
    Likes Received:
    23
    Trophy Points:
    18
    Location:
    Sterling CO
    What about a Motorcraft 2100? Super easy to tune and work on and a lot of off roaders swear by them.
     
  5. nozmokey

    nozmokey Farmall Cub

    Joined:
    Oct 3, 2014
    Messages:
    152
    Likes Received:
    37
    Trophy Points:
    28
    Location:
    Parker, CO
    I've done some reading and the MC2100 looks to be a good option too. Thanks for the heads up.

    Got about 7" of snow last night and then it got all sunny and warmed up so i made some time in the garage.
    Got the lat two freeze plugs in and replaced the rear main seal. The bell housing was soaked with oil and hopefully this new one keeps all the oil inside the engine.
    Then wife and son helped me put the engine in the truck since the rest of the work can be done just as easily in the engine bay, I think. If not there's still plenty of room.

    Still working on the intake manifold and working on the carb issue.
    I need to get a closer look but I think my tie rod is going to hit the spring pack once I reset the caster. Is there a reasonable solution for this outside of hi-steer setup?
    -Steve

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  6. nozmokey

    nozmokey Farmall Cub

    Joined:
    Oct 3, 2014
    Messages:
    152
    Likes Received:
    37
    Trophy Points:
    28
    Location:
    Parker, CO
    Got the transmission married up to the engine in the truck. What a PITA but I learned a couple of things in the process. First, on the transmission mounts, if you've got a V8 and associated frame you need the taller/extended mounts.
    These are the two I had to choose from and I couldn't recall which came from which truck so I eyeballed some stuff and decided it was the shorter of the two.
    [​IMG]
    When I got the transmission in I found out i was at least 3/4" too high and the engine and tranny were basically cantilevered off the mounts.
    Like this.
    [​IMG]
    So I guess I'll weld up the other mounts and get those in place.

    Also I had forgotten that the firewall in the V8 donor truck was factory cut to allow the shifter so I ended up with this.
    [​IMG]

    I do have the tunnel cover from the donor and should be able to hack the firewall up with decent precision.
    Also picked up one of the recommended Holley 2300 7448 carbs and will get a rebuild kit for it and clean it up.
    Lastly I'm looking for a local shop in Denver area that re-manufactures clutches. Anyone know a shop I can go to?

    Thanks,
    Steve
     
    jmait769 and jbraziel like this.
  7. nozmokey

    nozmokey Farmall Cub

    Joined:
    Oct 3, 2014
    Messages:
    152
    Likes Received:
    37
    Trophy Points:
    28
    Location:
    Parker, CO
    Transmission mounts in. I don't agree with the engineering as there are a couple of captured bolts and or nuts and it appears I have too many rubber bumpers in there but I can't see it hurting anything. An interisting thing is that the bolts used to mount the tranny to the mount (7/16-14) were too big to fit through the mounts. I had to open them up a bit. Not sure why that happened. Next is to finally point the pinion up at the transfer case and burn in the spring perches. One of the things it looks like I need to do is flip the tie rod over. I've seen inserts that can be used but I'm not sure what taper was used. Any help there?
    -Steve

    [​IMG]
     
  8. nozmokey

    nozmokey Farmall Cub

    Joined:
    Oct 3, 2014
    Messages:
    152
    Likes Received:
    37
    Trophy Points:
    28
    Location:
    Parker, CO
    I cleaned up the intake, replaced the welch plugs and installed it along with the starter, exhaust manifolds and flywheel. Thanks to this site I installed thread sealant. IH liked their through holes I guess.
    Also picked up a used Holley 2300 7448 as recommended and rebuilt it. The carb had an electric choke installed, Motorcraft, but I've determined that is no good. I hooked a battery charger up to it and the spring didn't move at all. I checked continuity and one side to the other read about 700kohms.

    Any opinions as to whether I replace the spring (they're available for about $20-30) or just install a manual choke which are about the same cost?

    Steve
    Pics to follow.
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  9. nozmokey

    nozmokey Farmall Cub

    Joined:
    Oct 3, 2014
    Messages:
    152
    Likes Received:
    37
    Trophy Points:
    28
    Location:
    Parker, CO
    Well that looks better. Been away a while but got the knuckles turned to 5 degrees and the pinion pointed at the the transfer case. I'll run a double cardan joint up there. Axles all welded back up with new perches and out Cs where they should be. Replaced the electric choke and checked it out with a battery charger. That works. Progress is slow but but moving.
    Looking at radiator options. Does a Scout II rad fit in the 800 w/o too much modification? The 304 I have is out of a Scout II and the water neck is oriented in the opposite direction for how the outlet/inlets are oriented in the standard 800 radiators.
    -Steve

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  10. walkersscout

    walkersscout High Wheeler

    Joined:
    Oct 5, 2005
    Messages:
    1,479
    Likes Received:
    216
    Trophy Points:
    63
    Location:
    AZ
    I just bought a ford style aluminum radiator off eBay for a hundred bucks. I had to change the inlet and outlet for a more favorable hook up, but it wasn't any big deal.
     
  11. walkersscout

    walkersscout High Wheeler

    Joined:
    Oct 5, 2005
    Messages:
    1,479
    Likes Received:
    216
    Trophy Points:
    63
    Location:
    AZ
    I think it was 24x18
     
  12. nozmokey

    nozmokey Farmall Cub

    Joined:
    Oct 3, 2014
    Messages:
    152
    Likes Received:
    37
    Trophy Points:
    28
    Location:
    Parker, CO
    I suppose if it fits in the hole and I can get hoses to it, it should work. Thanks. I'll take some measurements and find something online.

    Made some progress on the suspension and got rid of the Scout lean and all the body mounts with new bushings are secured.
    Anyone know the taper on the International TREs? I need to flip the tie rod and wanted to use the tapered inserts. I see them as a ~7 degree option. Is that the IH taper?
    -Steve
    pics.
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  13. walkersscout

    walkersscout High Wheeler

    Joined:
    Oct 5, 2005
    Messages:
    1,479
    Likes Received:
    216
    Trophy Points:
    63
    Location:
    AZ
    Yes that's the taper.
     
  14. nozmokey

    nozmokey Farmall Cub

    Joined:
    Oct 3, 2014
    Messages:
    152
    Likes Received:
    37
    Trophy Points:
    28
    Location:
    Parker, CO
    Thanks walkersscout. It worked out. Got the tie rod flipped over and while not the most ideal situation, it doesn't hit the leaf springs anymore and will work until I go hi-steer.
    I've got a couple of new issues to deal with. First I need to repair the heater core. It was a little mangled when I got. I think I cut the stub short and solder on a new barbed fitting. Acid flux and high tin content solder. Sound right?

    Second, I think I've got the wrong alternator bracket. Are pre-71 versions out there available for less than 5X the cost of the alternator (I saw some on that auction site) or should I just cut the fender and make room for the alternator/bracket as is. Thinking if I did that I would just notch it and weld in some new sheet metal. It's up high enough that I don't think tire issues will arise. Thinking about 35s when it's all said and done.
    Thanks in advance.
    -Steve
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
  15. walkersscout

    walkersscout High Wheeler

    Joined:
    Oct 5, 2005
    Messages:
    1,479
    Likes Received:
    216
    Trophy Points:
    63
    Location:
    AZ
    I would just get the right bracket. If you can't find one I know where there are several I could have shipped out fairly reasonably.

    I think I would try to straighten the heater core hose nipple.heat it with a torch to anneal, then pry it open a little, then get a drift punch in there. It doesn't need to be prefect, just mostly round will work.
     
  16. nozmokey

    nozmokey Farmall Cub

    Joined:
    Oct 3, 2014
    Messages:
    152
    Likes Received:
    37
    Trophy Points:
    28
    Location:
    Parker, CO
    Good advice. I took at look at would you had done and made my own bracket. It misses the water pipe and while it doesn't have a ton of adjustment, it should have enough. Only took about 3 tries. Hardest part was finding the sweet spot where the alternator wasn't hitting the valve cover or the exhaust manifold but I got it. It feels pretty stout but I think I'll add some gussets.
    Also got the heater core straitened out, reassembled and installed. I gave it a low pressure leak test and by that I mean I stuffed some paper towels in the inlet/outlet and dropped it into bucket of water for about a half hour. They came out dry. Also ordered a radiator (will likely have to mod the core support) and ran fuel lines form the tank to pump and pump to carb. Getting closer.
    -Steve
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  17. walkersscout

    walkersscout High Wheeler

    Joined:
    Oct 5, 2005
    Messages:
    1,479
    Likes Received:
    216
    Trophy Points:
    63
    Location:
    AZ
    That looks great!
     
  18. nozmokey

    nozmokey Farmall Cub

    Joined:
    Oct 3, 2014
    Messages:
    152
    Likes Received:
    37
    Trophy Points:
    28
    Location:
    Parker, CO
    Thanks. I added a leg up from the bottom to help stiffen things up, painted it and it's in place for good now. I think I'll use one of those adjustable turnbuckle style adjusters to tension the belt, like Porsche.
    Radiator arrived. Since I can't weld Al, I needed something with the right inlet/outlet and the one for the Scout II fit the bill. I did need to modify the radiator support and drill a couple of extra holes in the radiator to make it fit but it's in there and the hood closes and everything. Next for a battery, some prelim wiring and shortly this thing will turn over.
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  19. walkersscout

    walkersscout High Wheeler

    Joined:
    Oct 5, 2005
    Messages:
    1,479
    Likes Received:
    216
    Trophy Points:
    63
    Location:
    AZ
    Nice, I didn't know an SII radiator would fit at all.
     
  20. nozmokey

    nozmokey Farmall Cub

    Joined:
    Oct 3, 2014
    Messages:
    152
    Likes Received:
    37
    Trophy Points:
    28
    Location:
    Parker, CO
    Been away for a bit. Long story short we thought we were moving to CA and then didn't.
    The alternator is now adjustable. A little Rube Goldberg but it should work. I had planned to use a turnbuckle style version but there wasn't a good way to get from the factory attach point to somewhere on the motor.

    -Steve

    [​IMG]

    Installed and misses everything it needs to miss. There's a specific order of operations to get it in but it's not bad. I'll pull it off, round over some edged and get it painted and find a belt to fit.

    [​IMG]
     
    oneof3k likes this.

Share This Page