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Discussion in 'Binder Builds' started by nozmokey, Dec 3, 2014.
Fill it in with weld and it will be ok.
Actually, I'm going to cut one of the seams in the bed/inner fender and see if I can jack it up/shim the body mounts and use a turnbuckle/come-a-long to pull the door opening closer to the proper location.
I would have guessed it would go the other way based on where the body mounts are, collapse in so the door opening would be too small.
The door catch is done and I think we won. The bottom hinge on the door wasn't closing completely (about 15 degrees short) and that was goofing the door lines at the bottom. Took the hinge off and put it in the Famco 3-1/2 and straightened it out. We've been fighting with this door/side for a while and getting the lines as close as they are now is something worth writing home about.
Excellent Steve! I jerked around with the driver door on mine for so long thought I would just do without one. After enough inspiration here I was able to get the door lined up better than original. Keep it up, Greg
Thanks Greg. Ski season has slow progress a bit but moving along slowly.
We've got 95% of the body panels welded back on. Just have to reconnect the the bottoms of the rockers and rear quarters to the tub.
A little work done on the tail gate. This one came from the donor truck and needed a little work but it seems to fit alright now. Had to fix some busted welds and twist it a bit.
Now it latches on both sides and sits snug. Any thoughts on a locking mechanism? Find one or just fill the hole and be done with it?
Pictures for proof.
Got some more garage time this weekend. Finally finished the cut part of the C&T on the Scout II Dana 44s we picked up a while ago and go the pumpkin ground down most of the way.
It recently dawned on me that the 800 had a Dana 27 front axle previously which has a 2.25" axle tube and the u-bolt plate was made for that. Is there a typical/accepted method for converting this for a Dana 44 2.75" axle tube? Or do I just go out and find/make new ubolt plates?
Cut axles pics below.
Not much to report. Got a little more work on the suspension done. Received some new spring bushings in the mail the other week and was going to hang the springs from the frame but 5 of the eyes still had the 50 yr old bushings left in them. Took a couple hours, a blow torch, 2 sets of pliers, an air chisel and a Famco 3 1/2 press but they came out. They did not go without a fight though.
Worked on the suspension a little. Ordered 3/8" plate steel to make new spring plates and shackles and some 1/4" thick 2" square tube to make new perches. Hopefully it gets in sooner than later and I can get the springs under the truck next weekend. Going to need some new centering pins too. Was thinking about some SS socket head cap screws for those.
One of the front main springs was goofed so I stole one off the other truck. You can see it below. Half wasn't arched at all. Cleaned up the rest of the springs and got those ready for when the material all shows up.
You can see the goofed main leaf on the left.
Freshly painted springs and new bushings. The hex bolt is just holding them in one piece for now. I've got some 16 gauge sheet metal left over that I think I'll cut into strips and make my own spring clips. Not sure if I cut them like the originals with the bent tab or just bend them around and weld them together with a lap joint.
Got bored and went out to the garage tonight. Decided to use the shock mounts from the old spring plates. They all came off pretty easily. I've got some threads to clean up on one but they should be fine. Will weld them to the new plates I am making.
Any lessons learned from making a set of spring plates?
Since I don't have an Ironworker I am going to weld a lip on the short ends of the plates to prevent them from bending but considering they'll be 3/8" thick, I think they'd probably be OK without the lip.
Newly divorced shock mounts/spring plates. I got the mounts in the settlement.
Here's a shot of the old plate and the material I'll be using.
Got back out into the garage today. My tubing for the perches showed up so I got to work on those. Used 0.25" thick 2" square tubing and picked up a 2.75" hole saw from the BBRG. Glad I got the hole saw. Made the cutting go very smoothly. We set it up so the top of the perch is 1" from the top of the axle tube. Also made some cuts on the 3/8" plate material. We went with 5x5.5 and 5x6 for the rear and front spring plates. We might trim that 5" dimension down later though, depends on how it fits. Also cut up some 5" shackle plates and shaped the ends. Just need to drill some holes and pick up some grage 8 bolts and some black pipe to finish those. Making progress.
Setup for cutting the arc for the axle tube.
Boy getting ready to start cutting.
And the final cut. The hole saw wasn't deep enough to go all the way through so about half way we cut some out with the angle grinder.
Fits pretty nicely.
And got the hole for the centering pin drilled out.
And finally some 5" shackles and plates. Have some drilling and welding to do tomorrow.
Busy weekend in the garage. Got the shackles finished and painted and got the springs hung under the truck to get them out of the way. Drilled the holes for the spring plates. I've got the diff housing at 3.5" and then axle tubes at 2.75". Still have to trim the plates to width. They are 5" wide right now and I am going to take them back to 4". Then have to weld on the shock mounts. Thinking next Friday for that. I had cut the 2.75" opening in all the spring perches. and then today fit the front driver's side to the diff housing. Turned out pretty good I think. Need to order some fresh u-bolts and then I can mock up the axles at least.
Should I cap the ends of the perches to keep them from filling with crud or at least drill some holes in the bottom to let water drain out?
Gratuitous pics to follow.
Shackles all ready to go. They got paint this afternoon. Having a drill press makes these things a lot easier. Used 3.5" bolts for the shackles and 3" for the hard mounts. The material there is thinner than 3/8" on the outside of the bushing.
Springs and new shackles together. Starting to look a little more like a truck.
And here's the perch sitting on the diff housing. Close enough for government work.
One last update for a bit. Got the spring plates cut to size and welded on the shock mounts.
I'll clean up the welds a bit and then paint later on.
We got everything under the truck and set it up at ride height. It'll flatten out some more with the added weight of the engine/transmission/top/everything else but I was pleased with where it sat for now. Thinking either 31 or 33s. We'll do the math when we settle on some new gears. Axles have 3.07 right now and I think that's too low numerically for the 3 speed. The spring perches and plates worked out pretty good although I think I might need to shorten the plates. Sitting on the top side they probably need to be a bit shorter as I can see some arch in between the plate and the last leaf. Again, should flatten out with all the fixings so I'll wait until we see it sitting like that to make any cuts.
Good progress, I changed my axles to Scout 2's and I think they are 3.53's if I remember right and with my inline 6 and the 3 speed they don't get a long very well, 3rd gear basically feels like an overdrive now, I like the gearing the way it is though and I think if I had a four speed it would be a good setup, its just to big of a gap between 2nd and 3rd. Keep up the good work!
Also just a warning, when I changed my springs etc. I noticed that your Scout has the same shackle stops that mine had and when my scout was sitting back on its own weight the shackles were hitting those stops and actually holding up the suspension in the front and not letting the shackle move, so you may want to check that before you go any farther or just cut them off. Just my 2 cents.
Anymore progress on this build??
Just a tiny bit. Have started cleaning the engine up and getting rid of all the old seals gaskets but June 3rd I started finishing my basement. Bedroom, family room and a full bath so until that is complete (93% done I think) the Scout sits all alone in the garage.
Thanks for checking in.
So I've started back in on this thing again since the basement is all done and next I need to work out the front springs. The sets I had came from an 800 with the 4cy and the other set came from an 800 with what would have been the 266. I'm putting a 304 in this and am wondering if I should add a leaf from the other set to sure up the ride a bit and if so, is there a preferred spring to add in? i.e. second longest, third shortest etc... I have no idea.
Made some progress this weekend. Got all of my leafs together and sorted out a matching set that measure within 1/16" in total thickness of each other and have the same arch, more or less. The picture is a little deceiving but they are 99% even. You can see it better by looking at the shackles.
Also spent a bunch of time this weekend putting the engine back together. I had pulled everything except the heads to reseal and hopefully keep the oil and coolant inside the engine.
Left to do it the rear main seal and the two big freeze plugs on the back of the engine. The engine stand is in the way and can't get a good swing on the mallet right now. Will get it up on the cherry picker just before the transmission gets bolted back on take care of those three items. New engine mounts on and almost ready to get dropped back in the truck.
Looks better in red than in oil/dirt blackish.
Next thing is it rebuild the carburetor. I doubt it needs it but I'd like to get a look inside as I've never done it before. I'll get the boy out to help with that one.
I'm guessing it is a 2210 but none of the markings line up with anything in the Service Manual. This is sitting on top of a 304A from what I thought was a '72 Scout II.
Do i have it right? I'll be ordering the rebuild kit here in the next couple of days.
Nice progress, I have trouble finding a carb kit for my sons Scout 2 also finally one of the old timers at the local NAPA found it for me.