'65 Scout 80 "Tyrell", SBC drivetrain

Discussion in 'Binder Builds' started by urbex, Apr 23, 2012.

  1. urbex

    urbex Farmall Cub

    Finally doing up a S80 the way I've wanted for some time - with a modern EFI V8, and overdrive auto trans. Currently mocking up with a Vortec 305, to replaced later with either a 350 or 383 (although we breifly contemplated dropping in a 496 :D) I've been going back and forth on axle choice, mainly whether I'll be running full width or not. I still haven't decided :p I will be running a 36-37 inch tire, likely leaf sprung for now, and eventually moving to a double triangulated setup front and rear down the road.

    This round of pics include using TH400 trans to help give a better idea of where to place the engine, but the plan is to use a TH700-R4/4L60. I also apparently forgot to get a round of pics before the chopping began, but I'm sure people can get a decent idea of what the empty engine bay of a S80 looks like :D

    We started by unbolting all the sheet metal forward of the firewall, and chopping off what was welded in place

    The plan is to pinch the front end roughly 16-18", extend the cage up the grill support, and build a tubular framework to hang the fenders off of. I've also been considering perhaps building out a tilt frontend. Not so much for the cool factor, but more so for ease of access to the engine for maintenance/repairs. I don't have fond memories of leaning over the fenders trying to get to the I6 that was in my last 80, and I'm certainly not looking forward to it with the V8 (this was also part of the decision to chop out the inner fenders on this one, along with easier exhaust routing, outside the frame).

    The V8 does drop in there _real_ nice. To the point that I think it would have been completely possible to get it in there without modifying the stock front crossmember, but it would have been real close, and would have required pulling the engine if the front pulley/balancer ever needed to be removed (like when the front crank seal went south on my I6). So the crossmember came out, and will be replaced a little farther forward, serving as part of the winch mount.

    I tried to get some shots of the placement within the tunnel..the engine is set back under the tunnel some, basically it's shoved back there as much as possible. At this point, I don't think the firewall/tunnel will need to be modified _at all_..._maybe_ just a little bit around the rear of driver's side exhaust manifold, but I think with a set of center dump manifolds, I will have plenty of clearance. There would also have been plenty of clearance to either of the inner fenders.

    This is one of the fenders temp hung back on, to give an idea of the positioning of the engine in relation to the front of the truck. Plenty of room for radiator and fans behind all stock bodywork.

    Granted, I'm using an engine with a low profile "crab cap" distributor, which does allow me to put the engine a bit further back, along with a low profile intake and EFI which helps too.

    I'm hoping to get the engine actually mounted this coming weekend, and hopefully the trans and transer case mounted as well.
  2. supermerle

    supermerle Binder Driver

    Looks like a cool build! Keep it coming. Sometimes I wonder;myself, if I need to swap? Last night I took trip about an hour away and I could see my gas gauge steadly drop as I was driving.:censored: Maybe one of these day I'll put a Hamilton fuel injection system on mine. Cheers and later.
  3. Comanche Scott

    Comanche Scott High Wheeler

    This is going to be a fun build! :rockon:
    Another option for the front sheet metal would be quick release fasteners on the fenders. Mount the nose off the sub frame, and keep the hood mounted up like normal.
    This way there is nothing to cut your head when working anywhere on the front. It's easier to fab than a tilt setup, and gives even better access. :yes:
  4. urbex

    urbex Farmall Cub

    Is it a _need_? No. A buddy runs a carbed 192 in his 80, turning 37s, and it rolls down the freeway just fine, and can dang near be rolled completely on it's side before it quits running. But after looking over the cost of putting EFI on an IH mill, plus attaching an overdrive trans to it, it just made a lot more sense to me to just go with a modern drivetrain setup. Plus I will have a considerably greater chance of being able to find replacement parts for this setup out in the middle of nowhere if the need arises (and that's actually a common theme throughout this build - using as much off the shelf hardware as possible).

    Actually, I like that idea. The tilt does have a much greater "cool" factor going for it, but I can just imagine smacking my noggin on it a few times, lol. I'm not sure how I would go about securing the fenders in the front where they normally would mount to the nose, though...I'm sure I could use the common Dzus style fastener along the top rail under the hood, along with the back there they mount on to the tub..but that front part has me a bit stumped right now (I'd rather not put the fasteners on the outside...I'd like to at least maintain a factory style appearance, and yes, I'm aware that a pinch blows that attempt on it's own, lol).

    Although...I've also thought about just ditching the fenders altogether, and going with a bit more tube, a la rock buggy style. Either way though, I have plenty of time to figure it out before I have to decide.
  5. guidolyons

    guidolyons High Wheeler


    I like where this is going :rockon:
  6. urbex

    urbex Farmall Cub

    Just a quickie update...the project got shelved for a bit, largely because it's hot in Phoenix in the summer, and I'm a pansy in the heat :D

    I started stripping down the donor car for the LT1 last night (yep, I've fully decided to go with LT1 power :D Yes, I'm aware of the LT1 issues, and they will be addressed. No, I'm not interested in defending my decision to go modern GM power vs putting EFI on an SV mill. I have my reasons, and I'm going to leave it at that), and hopefully will have the engine on a stand this weekend. My _hope_ is to at least have it moving under it's own power by October, and ready to wheel by the end of November.

    The weather looks like it will be halfway decent for the next week, so hoping to make some good progress. Will update again with more pictures soon.
    Last edited: Aug 22, 2012
  7. Comanche Scott

    Comanche Scott High Wheeler

    Cool! Mike Moore has an LT1 in his Scout-II. He says it's under-powered. He was barely able to drag the gold vault building at Fort Knox back home, or move the Mississippi river.
    Might want to add a supercharger... :D

    Sounds like fun. My sources say it's raining and cool (comparatively speaking), so get to work! :whip:

  8. urbex

    urbex Farmall Cub

    Oh yeah, I figure I'm going to have a heck of a grin on my face the first time I stab the skinny pedal :D More so considering an 80 is a bit lighter than a SII to begin with. You know...the LT1 is a fairly low profile engine...I just might be able to squeeze in an 8-71 under the hood :D

    I'm anxious to get it done, but it looks like we're going to have another big storm rolling in soon, and I don't have a covered area to work in right now. That said, tomorrow, and through the weekend looks like it should be nice, so I _should_ be able to still get the engine out by the end of the weekend.

    I still have to come up with a trans and transfer case, and do the rebuild on those. Axles I should be good on, and I already have a good portion of the rest of the stuff to get the thing going, so I'm not too far behind the 8 ball.
  9. Comanche Scott

    Comanche Scott High Wheeler

    I just bought a 4L60E from Bow Tie Overdrives, in Hesperia, CA. It was cheaper to buy, that to buy all the upgraded parts, and build it.
    They used a K case and put a new 4x4 output shaft in, and had a special 6 lug converter built at no extra charge.
    So far all I've done is paint it I.H. Red, so I have no idea if it's any good, but it looks really pretty... :laugh:
    This is the first time someone else has built a transmission for me. Will be interesting to see how it goes.
    I built a Dana 300 from an '82 Jeep, and used a Novak adapter to join the two. There's a picture of the transmission and transfercase in my build thread, if it helps.

    I'm looking forward to following your build, should be a heck of a lot of fun. :beer:

  10. urbex

    urbex Farmall Cub

    Small bit of progress made today. Yanked the 305, dropped my LT1 in, and promptly realized that virtually NONE of the work we did prior meant a darn thing, because just everything is in a different place on an LT1 compared to a typical SBC. Yeah, I already knew that..why it didn't occur to me before is completely beyond me, lol.

    We didn't get a whole lot accomplished, as there was still plenty of discussion as to how we're approaching what, and an absurd amount of time arguing over whether I should use solid engine mounts - I wanted to, Fife is convinced I'm going to destroy something expensive doing so :D Needless to say, my way won out, lol. That said, yes, I'm fully aware of the extra vibes/noise/whatever that comes along with solid mounts. As the old saying goes, this isn't my first rodeo, and I've used solid mounts in several vehicles in the past, so I'm fully aware of the "feel" of them. This is a crawler, not a Cadillac, I could care less about vibes :D Right now I have the trans/case going in on a stock rubber mount, although the stock mount I picked up for an '88 full size Blazer (the truck the trans came out of) is a HUGE monster of a mount, so I may be changing it out for a poly bushing shell to gain some clearance on the crossmember.

    Anyways, engine in -

    Driver's side mount - (not yet done, still need to add some gussets)

    Passenger mount - (also not done, add gussets)

    Next weekend we'll get the trans cross member done, install transfer case, and axles. It might be going slow, but it's exciting to see some progress :)
  11. urbex

    urbex Farmall Cub

    Yep, more slow progress, lol. Finally got the front axle hung today, and luckily didn't have to touch the factory perches. Using waggy springs up front, with shackles mounted through the frame, the spacing worked out perfect with just an offset shackle on the inside of the frame, straight shackle on the outside, then hangers up front to match.

    Front axle is a D60 kingpin from a '91 Dodge, rear axle will be a D70 from the same Dodge. Still have yet to determine whether a cut and turn will be required, but I'm thinking I can avoid it for now with a Non CV driveshaft with high angle yokes and/or u joints. This will be a trailer queen, so on-road vibrations or u-joint life will be a non issue for me. I don't yet have the T-case in it's final position (D300 attached to a TH400 trans), so I'm not 100% sure what my angles are going to be right now anyways.

    Hope to finish up the spring plates this weekend (working on a plan that will avoid using u-bolts altogether), along with getting the rear axle installed, and if all goes well get the steering mocked up as well so that I can get it on a trailer and start working on electrical and plumbing at my place.

    Attached Files:

  12. urbex

    urbex Farmall Cub

    Yep...any kind of build schedule has been tossed in the trash, and we're back to "it'll get done when it gets done!" lol :D

    Finally drug the Scout home, and have been able to put in a few minutes here, few minutes there after work. Nothing picture worthy to report, recently started putting the engine back together and got the headers and intake manifold back on. I'd like to hope to have the engine fully back together by the weekend and start laying out the engine harness.

    I'll likely make a few more posts like this for a while, mainly just to document progress for my own reference, but likely won't have much interesting content for a while.
  13. BrandonBerkosky

    BrandonBerkosky Binder Driver

    Glad to see u went lt1. I had a 95 caprice wagon and that thing was a rocket. That little 80 will be severely overpowered haha. The efi on that 305 is a troublesome system anyhow. I did the tbi swap on my 304 it ran me about $500 and it will run upside down.(vid to prove) not trying to sway you in anyway about injecting an ih mill. Just adding my two cents. Awesome build can't wait to see more.

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