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Discussion in 'Binder Builds' started by Perdido, Aug 16, 2020.
Oh yeah..I had that planters crap to..
terrible! I wore one of those boots, and did all the painful exercises. I finally got thru it when Mrs JJ was working here at St Thomas Hospital. One of her colleagues was one of the Titans team doctors. Dr Broussard really helped me out, exercises and he would bind my foot up, TIGHT. It took almost a year.
JJ in TN
Slow progress, but the body shop did straighten the tailgate and delivered it yesterday and I’ll have it blasted before I start any sheet metal work if it’s needed. We are picking up the frame today and will store it until the new 2” Skyjacker/Bilstein suspension comes in. Since the suspension raises it 2” and we are using poly bushings and 1” longer shackles, do we need to use longer brake hoses? We want to build out the frame and drivetrain before we drop the body back on.
John and I picked up the frame today and dropped off the tailgate, rear bumper and 2 cargo bed supports. The frame was blasted and primed with 3 coats of epoxy followed by 3 coats of chassis black urethane and it looks great. I’ll drive to the body shop tomorrow and have them check for any possible cracks and weld them up if they find any. It’s good to have young eyes look at things like that! Once I get the all ok I’ll bring it home and start installing brake lines, body mounts, etc. since I can still do stuff like that
frame looks great..!!
Yes, you will need longer brake cables.
Nice work, you are making some good progress there! Brings back memories. I would def suggest the longer brake lines.
JJ in TN
Thanks for the replies on the brake lines and I’m ordering a kit from inline tube, hard and soft lines. I’m going with the regular steel lines vs the SS ones since SS can be hard to bend and they come with a couple of shipping bends. Thoughts?
The round gauge dash arrived from IHPA arrived yesterday and I’ve been piddling with the stock dash, moving switches, fitting dash vents, welding up holes, etc. It looks like it’s going to work out with a combination of old and new controls, knobs, double din navigation/stereo/back up camera/etc. (blue tape). Once the color scheme is established by my DIL, I’ll cover the dash pad and probably the original dash in one color and the new round gauge dash in another. They’ve tentatively chosen a dark green, close to a BRG that period Jags were painted and if that holds true I’ll probably go with a chocolate brown/tan combination. The seats would end up covered in the same tan with chocolate brown piping, but that’s just a wag at this point.
For the gauges I’m leaning toward analog with white faces from whatever vendor makes it easy to install the sensors. Gauges have gotten pretty pricey and if it were totally my decision I would probably install some mid 60s British ones, black with white numbers and orange needles.
I really like how the AC vents are in the dash. Makes it not look like an afterthought. I get that question a lot on mine, "is that factory air?" . If it looked like yours nobody would ask HAHAHA
JJ in TN
Made more progress since the last post, installed the Inline Tube brake lines, the new parking brake cables, etc on the frame. More work on the dash to smooth it out in preparation for paint or vinyl covering (DILs choice) and all of the vents and switches have been cut out and test fit. Cut out the rusty bits on the fender wells and tacked in new metal, but will wait on the new cargo floor before finish welding. The shrinker/stretcher was invaluable in forming the corners where the wheel well went from an angle to straight down. I’m building up a pretty good box of parts to pass on when I’m thru. I’m curious about the 2 holes in the passenger floor that had metal covers with seam sealer, anyone know what they were for?