$600 Scout II

Discussion in 'Binder Builds' started by Perdido, Aug 16, 2020.


  1. Perdido

    Perdido Farmall Cub

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    My son found this 1974 Scout II for sale locally and decided it would be a fun project. I restore old British sports cars in my retirement and finished a Jeep YJ backdated to a CJ last year which my daughter in law drives. As the title says, he paid $600 for it and it actually ran when we picked it up. It’s a 1974 with a 345 and auto transmission and lots of rust. We brought it to the shop last week and cleaned out 6” of varmint poop, deer bones, wasp nests, rotten trash, etc and pressure washed it. The rats and squirrels had a field day with the wiring along with the PO, so it no longer cranks (at least I can’t 6DC57BA8-7790-4C1C-9B65-0B1B2BCE6426.jpeg 6DC57BA8-7790-4C1C-9B65-0B1B2BCE6426.jpeg 985BDA7F-6C83-4CB6-BC6C-CCEA898AD86F.jpeg 819F9211-2B33-4C1D-9A65-014519ED7E4D.jpeg figure out the starter wiring). Last Monday I began disassembly and cutting out rust trying to figure out what we had and while there is lots of rust, it’s not as bad as some cars I’ve restored in the past. Here are some pictures of where we started and where we are now.
    Perdido
     

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  2. Perdido

    Perdido Farmall Cub

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    My son and daughter in-law (DIL) came over yesterday afternoon to help with some heavy lifting, clean up and organization and we got a lot done. They stripped the seat frames to get them ready for sandblasting and powder coating, pressure washed again and removed rusty parts. Good progress was made and I feel better about the condition of the frame and underside. Where’s the best place to buy body parts that fit? We need dog legs, floors, braces, etc. Once the bodywork is done it’s off to the sandblaster. BTW, the bed on this Scout is flat, would it be best to replace it with a ribbed one?
    Thanks, Perdido C9A3EB78-FB17-493D-8340-A254376D5231.jpeg A0EF9EF4-2809-4158-B87C-C0F7F079C755.jpeg
     

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  3. J.J.

    J.J. Lives in an IH Dealership

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    Welcome to the madness! You're in Alabama? Scout Light Line is the only manufacturer of the panels, but any Light Line dealer can get them for you. Probably whomever can get you the best deal. Scoutco in VA might be the most cost effective for you, but any, Super Scout, IH Parts America can hook you up! Ill be watching your build.

    JJ in TN
     
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  4. Darrel

    Darrel Dreams of Cub Cadets

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    What JJ said - who ever has the best deal. Dog legs are super expensive so you might want to post wanted ads on here and the book of faces. Ribbed floors have a better strength to weight ratio. Or you can just add a few more floor supports. Speaking of which I would use 1x2 and 1x3 channel or rectangular tube for the supports instead of the tinfoil OEM pieces that will just rust out again. Before you start welding things together the door openings need to be aligned. Usually we tell people get the gaps correct and then weld x-braces in the door openings as a first step. Before removing the doors or metal. Also before cranking the engine over it needs to be pre-oiled. There is a step by step pdf floating around here.
     
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  5. Perdido

    Perdido Farmall Cub

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    Thanks guys! I’ve added my location and I’m in Tuscaloosa, AL and I understand there are a couple of Scout people around, but I’ve not met any. I’m really hoping to get the few body parts I need and getting this thing blasted and painted! Although the engine cranked and ran when purchased, it no longer turns over, so I’ve pulled the steering column and cleaned it up and checked the electrical. The key was hard to turn and didn’t spring back from the crank position, but that’s fixed now. I’m all ears on advice since Scouts are new to me...I’ve built a Jeep and several British sports cars (my passion).
    Thanks again, Perdido
     
  6. J.J.

    J.J. Lives in an IH Dealership

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    Im in Castalian Springs TN 37031, not terrible far. Have several junkers laying around if you are in need of specific items. We also have the local 615 Scout Club and I don't know how many members exactly but always have at least a dozen or more show up. There are more IH people around here than you would think. Also some guys that I know in Chattanooga too.

    JJ in TN
     
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  7. Perdido

    Perdido Farmall Cub

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    JJ,
    Thanks for your offer and you are a lot closer than some of my past parts trips! The kids came over this afternoon and I put my son to work blasting parts, DIL moved parts around and made sure they were organized, wife and granddaughters played with whatever power tools they could get their hands on. I have a lot of dowels, etc ground down to sharp points thank to them. We painted several under dash parts including the reworked steering column and put them in the sun to bake. Lots of parts are turning out better than I expected. Can’t wait for my service manual to show up so I can get to work on the wiring. I will probably need a new brake booster since this one was full of brake fluid.
    Thanks again, Perdido A6B4B958-D769-439E-8ACE-11E923719B25.jpeg C5B4A69B-A2AF-41E5-AA9D-9E87698C51B6.jpeg
     

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  8. J.J.

    J.J. Lives in an IH Dealership

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    Yeah buddy, trust me I know all about driving for parts. We have a second home in Colorado and when we were there last fall I had the chance to buy five out of a junkyard, so I did. Had them transported here to middle TN. Best move when I was putting my '76 together this year.

    Parts are looking good, its the small details. Sounds like you have plenty of help too!

    JJ in TN
     
  9. Perdido

    Perdido Farmall Cub

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    Vacation time! Headed to Orange Beach to get some much needed R&R and hopefully some fishing. The crowds are less now that school has started, both on the beach and on the water. I’ll continue to research all the how to info so I’ll be better prepared when I get back to the shop. I got a call from my painter yesterday and the sandblasting and epoxy priming will be much less than I thought since everything will be broken down into parts and I’m tempted to pull the tub and drivetrain to have those done as well. It sure would be nice! I’m really bad with ‘mission creep’ and ‘while I’m in there’ which really slows me down.
    Perdido
     
  10. Perdido

    Perdido Farmall Cub

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    So much for a fun vacation! I’m prepping for not one, but two potential hurricanes reported to make landfall close to the same time on Wednesday.
    I’ve been giving this Scout II build more thought and since I might just pull the tub why not put it on the rotisserie? Does anyone know what a stripped tub weighs? I can probably handle 1500 lbs with my current set up, but would really like it to be under 1000 lbs. When I get home next week I hope my service manual will be waiting on me, but until then I’ll try to figure out the CG for the balance point.
    Thanks, Perdido
     
  11. mporter52

    mporter52 Binder Driver

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    I t should be fine on that rotisserie, the whole front end un bolts.
     
  12. J.J.

    J.J. Lives in an IH Dealership

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    My body guy had mine on a rotisserie and he was a lone shop guy. I moved mine around by myself here with no rotisserie so it can't be too heavy. Brace it in the door frames so it doesn't twist. I made mine up with plain old channel and welded pieces of flat to the ends, and bolted into the door hinge area and striker on the other side, worked great.

    JJ in TN
     
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  13. mongocanfly

    mongocanfly High Wheeler

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    I agree... best move for ease of work was on the rotisserie......
    Just be sure to x brace the crap outta it....with the doors on, before you pull it off the frame...and brace it in a way that the doors will open and close..
     
  14. Perdido

    Perdido Farmall Cub

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    Thanks guys! I currently have 1/4” plate drilled to fit the hinge mounts and door latch mounts that I plan on welding a bar to. I can remount the doors, but I don’t think I’m clear on the X brace. I was planning on mounting the tub on the rotisserie without the doors for easy access to everything. Can y’all post a picture of how you have it braced?
    Thanks again, Perdido
     
  15. mongocanfly

    mongocanfly High Wheeler

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    Bad thing is if you pull it off the frame that thing is gonna flop all over the place..
    And will get worse when you start cutting panels...
    Also if you have a top , it would be best to have it in place before you start bracing
    Best thing would be to get ,new, body mounts..replace them all,,then the x bracing will need to be on both doors..make sure the doors can open and close...Xbrace on the inside..then you'll need to xbrace across side2side behind the seats. And also Xbrace side2side inside the tailgate..
    If you dont get it rigid you'll be fighting it all the way..
    20200821_225218.jpg
     
  16. Perdido

    Perdido Farmall Cub

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    Mongo,
    Thanks for the detailed description! I understand the concept and location of the X braces and I’ve used similar on much smaller sports cars with conduit. I would like to complete panel replacement and repair while the tub is still attached to the frame and then remove the tub for sandblasting and paint. This is what I’ve done previously on body on frame and unibody cars. I’ve attached some pictures of an Austin Healey I completed several years ago using similar bracing. Where are you in Alabama?
    Thanks, Perdido 9DCE6DF2-717B-42F3-B41A-CAA85F6218DE.jpeg 39B29EB4-643A-469F-9B65-2EE7F8121AAA.jpeg 14E44FDF-C611-4939-9DB4-1855FB7AB66F.jpeg
     
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  17. Perdido

    Perdido Farmall Cub

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    Another question popped up and I’ve been wondering how to do this. The steering column is out, but the harness is still connected to the engine and I would love to see if it still runs. The dizzy is out and I’ve been spinning the oil pump to build pressure, but no oil to the rockers yet. Once the dizzy is reinstalled and static timed, how do I fire this beast up?
    Thanks, Perdido
     
  18. TravelerMan79

    TravelerMan79 Farmall Cub

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    Haha. For my "other" project, I probably drove over 4000 kms (3000 miles) including a trip down to Hershey, PA last year. It's all part of the journey, and about the incredible people you meet who share the same passion.
     
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  19. mongocanfly

    mongocanfly High Wheeler

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    Sounds like you've done it a few times..
    we always use 1x1 tubing to Xbrace, and a little weld where they X makes a lot of difference also..I'd get new body mounts under it..and doing your panel repairs on the frame works as well...
    but I've seen people start cutting out panels for replacement and all of a sudden theyve got a mess when stuff starts sagging...I've even seen them weld stuff back together like that , then they cant understand what happened..
    As far as cranking the engine, if you get 12v to the coil, and 12v to the starter, and a ground,it should crank over...
    But has it ran recently that you know of? ...I would crank it over and check the compression before you try to start it..
    Heres a video of one...its a little primitive but you get the idea
     
  20. J.J.

    J.J. Lives in an IH Dealership

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    Here’s how I did mine. I had a no rust tub from Arizona so I had little concern beyond this:

    [​IMG][​IMG][​IMG]

    JJ in TN


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
     
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