!6" coilover question need more flex

Discussion in 'General IH Tech' started by brad kellogg, Apr 9, 2005.


  1. brad kellogg

    brad kellogg Farmall Cub

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    I have just tested out my scout with it brand new suspension system. It has a three link rear with a five link front running 16" travel dual rate coilovers. My question is what is the best setup for the front so I get geat flex but still some street drivability. With the five link I get great flex but I have to remove one of my top links. What are my options. :D
     
  2. methesteve2

    methesteve2 Farmall Cub

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    two words four link. all the five links i have seen seem to restrict some of the travel i could be wrong but thats why you are here to get ideas.
     
  3. Damian Grihalva

    Damian Grihalva High Wheeler

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    It sounds like the top links are mounted to the bottom links, is this true? If they are, then you've got 'CBS' (ie 'Classic Bronco Syndrome') ~ meaning the links are turning the front axle into a torsion bar ~ which limits flex quite a bit.

    This system is GOOD for a dual-purpose rig. Although the 'torsion' action will limited flex, it'll also reduce body roll, which will give it good on-road manners. Then when off-road the removal of one of the top links (I recommend the driver-side) will give you more flex ~ However, with the link removed, it won't perform as well on-road.

    My recommendation, if it's like I think it is (please post pictures) is keep it the way it is, but make one of the upper arms have a quick-disconnect on the axle side to facilitate quick street-to-offroad swaps.

    PLEASE POST PICTURES ~ this will make it easy to see any possible problems. Also, you may want to go HERE ~ they have more experience in this arena of Scout modification
     
  4. brad kellogg

    brad kellogg Farmall Cub

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    Thanks Damian I talked to you on the phone a few weeks ago I'm the guy with the pink scout. Thats the answer I wanted but will disconnecting the upper link on one side put alot of stress on my my axle housing and possibly cause it to twist. I know i'm asking alot by wanting to keep it street drivable and still flex to the max but I am looking to have an all around rig. Plus
    i'm taking it back to the fab shop Monday so they can correct this problem and I want all my ducks in a row so they can't B.S me. I will send you pictures through your e-mail
     
  5. TheCopperCowboy

    TheCopperCowboy Farmall Cub

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    With the early Bronco front suspension, a wristed, driver's side arm can be pinned for on road driving and unpinned for off road flex. This is old school, but allows the suspension to unbind and not act like a torsion bar. Another option is WAH, wristed axle housing, from BC Broncos, which allows the axle tube to twist slightly. I'm sure there is a way to lock the axle for normal on road driving. The early Bronco design is totally unique to a Scout, but it can be done with good results.
     
  6. Damian Grihalva

    Damian Grihalva High Wheeler

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    Oh yeah ~ cool

    That's why I said to disconnect the DRIVER side arm, not the passenger. If the gears are the reason things are twisting it makes sence to keep the torque arm that's closest to the source of the torque. That will keep the opposing forces in the same neighborhood.

    Here are some update pictures I just posted on Rusty's thread

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    As you can see, I mounted the upper link (I'm only using one) on the pumkin itself. Since Dana60s are cast STEEL (unlike the knuckles which are Cast Iron) you can count on a decent weld holding. However, you can also see that I gusseted the upper link mount to the TrackBar/lower link mount as well. This gives me more strength and rigidity between the mounts ~ making them less-likely to move. I'd be REALLY surprised if the axle tube twist on this system.

    If you don't ask, you wont recieve. Asking these type of questions is what has taken this sport from the 1/4 elliptic and buggy spring rigs of yester-year to the coil-sprung and airshock rigs of today!

    Cool.
     
  7. brad kellogg

    brad kellogg Farmall Cub

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    I don't know how to post pictures on this forum. When I hit the insert image button, a window pops up for a web address. How do I post photos. Back to the problem at hand, the fab shop that did the work on my scout says the springs are to stiff to allow it to flex. They said that they could only get it to flex 2-3" with upper link off. I have driven it up on a three foot tall wall and it flexed great. The spings are to stiff, but you can make it flex with the upper link off on one side. This leads me into another question spring rate. Here's my weights front passenger 1470,lbs front driver 1507,lbs rear driver 1144 lbs, passenger rear,1082 lbs Total weight 5195lbs. can any body tell me what sring rate I should be running for rockcrawling. These are dual rate 16" travel coil-overs. I can post pictures of it flexing and of the five link set up if somebody can tell how.
     
  8. Damian Grihalva

    Damian Grihalva High Wheeler

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    I gotcha covered on the pictures. Here are the one's he sent me.
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    As far as your spring rate problem ~ I don't have enough experience to consider myself proficient at setting up spring rates, so I solicite the help of Scott @ RockBuggySupply ~ give him a call http://www.rockbuggysupply.com/
     
  9. brad kellogg

    brad kellogg Farmall Cub

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    The spring rate problem has been solved 250lbs over 350lbs front and 200lbs over250lbs rear. Now to put these bad boys on adjust the suspension. Then all thats left is to test her out at telico. Thanks Damian for posting the pictures of my scout. :D
     
  10. Damian Grihalva

    Damian Grihalva High Wheeler

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    Brad,

    What did you do to the front end, did you take out the inner fenders? I guess what I'm asking is what was done that would effect the wieght of the rig?
     

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