4” skyjacker lift question

Discussion in 'General IH Tech' started by Rollercam, Oct 26, 2018.


  1. Rollercam

    Rollercam Farmall Cub

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    I have searched for my question and come across a few similar posts, but most of them are 8+ years old. So, I thought I would throw this out there again and see if anyone had any new information.

    I have a ‘78 scout II and I am replacing my 4” RC springs (which are super stiff riding (I might as well have a solid bar in place)) with some 4” skyjacker springs. I was hoping this would be plug and play. However, I am having issues with the front springs. I just purchased these springs directly from the skyjacker showroom this past week. I live about 4 hours from their warehouse. Well, my front springs are around 1.75” short of bolting to the shackle when the shackle is hanging in its factory position. I really don’t want to have to push the shackle all the way to the rear of the truck just to force it to bolt up. I also don’t think I should have to get an extended shackle to get it to bolt up. Is this a common issue with brand new lift springs? My RC springs would bolt right back in with no shackle manipulation. Granted, those springs might have relaxed a bit, but they were not old. I confirmed with skyjacker that I did have the correct front and rear springs and they said I just needed to muscle them on.

    I did get the rear springs bolted up, but the shackles are point toward the rear axle and my understanding is that they should be pointed the other way, away from the axle. The rear skyjacker leafs were also a bit shorter than the RC springs, but they did bolt up.

    Any ideas as to what I need to do next? Has anyone else had this issue, especially with the front springs? Any help would be greatly appreciated.
     
  2. Patrick Morris

    Patrick Morris Lives in an IH Dealership

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    You're changing to "soft" springs, which have more unburdened arch to them than stiffer, less flexible springs. So they will seem shorter before installation. Go ahead and swing those shackles back as far they need to go to get the bolts through the spring eyes. Those shackles should swing forward just fine once the weight of the vehicle starts pressing down on them.

    How did you measure them? Along their arc? Or just straight across from eye to eye?

    Pictures always help a lot when we're discussing this sort of thing.
     
  3. David Banner

    David Banner High Wheeler

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    I do recall them taking a "lot of muscle" to get on. Been fine ever since...
     
  4. Patrick Morris

    Patrick Morris Lives in an IH Dealership

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    Yep, I have the "2.5 inch" Skyjackers on my truck. I've had to drop them and reinstall several times over the years while doing various projects. Not as much arch in them as the 4-inchers of course. But I have no problem swinging the shackles way back so that the holes line up. The 4-inchers might take a bit of persuasion the first time around.

    I will admit though, it's easier after I swapped to 5" shackles on the front.
     
  5. Erik Morton

    Erik Morton High Wheeler

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    Yeah they're tough. Once on my fronts have been good since. My rears well that's a different story.
     
  6. Darrel

    Darrel Dreams of Cub Cadets

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    Drive them around for a day and then post a side shot of the shackle angles.
     
  7. Rollercam

    Rollercam Farmall Cub

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    Guys,

    Thanks for all of the responses. I won’t have an opportunity to try and “muscle” them on until Monday. I do have some 5” shackles coming from one of the major IH parts suppliers as well.

    However, I would still like to get the springs on the stock shackles and see what it looks like and how it rides. I am really hoping that the ride is not near as stiff as my RC springs. Part of the issue is that my scout had no hardtop, but I am having a full length custom cage built. So, that will add some weight.

    With regards to the shackle angle, should the free end of the shackle (the end where the spring attaches) be angled towards the rear bumper on the back and the front bumper on the front when the vehicle is “at rest” on flat ground (i.e. no compression or droop)?

    I will try and get pictures soon.
     
  8. Patrick Morris

    Patrick Morris Lives in an IH Dealership

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    Sure. With everything all put together and the truck having been driven a little (or not, actually), the front shackles should be "swung forward" a little. And the rear shackles "swung backwards" a little. But depending on the springs, they could end up kinda vertical.
     
    tahoedonner likes this.
  9. 72soa

    72soa Binder Driver

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    I am sure spring lifts have a place and time. However, I think the SOA conversion on stock springs is the way to go. Enough clearance for 33's and a stock ride. At the same time the castor angle can be dialed in as well for good tracking. With the lift springs and now taller shackles there is a chance the truck could assume poor tracking/driving characteristics. To fix a cut and turn needs to occur.
     
  10. Patrick Morris

    Patrick Morris Lives in an IH Dealership

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    I'm sure you are right about the ride being inherently better. Does seem to be the way to go for a lot of people. But to do a SOA conversion, a LOT of work must be done to the axle housings at both ends. Compared to that, a basic C&T of the front's steering yokes sounds relatively easy to me.
     
  11. Patrick Morris

    Patrick Morris Lives in an IH Dealership

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    But I admit, the clearance and articulation you get out of SOA must be bitchin. :)
     
  12. 72soa

    72soa Binder Driver

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    The SOA works pretty well. It is not for everyone. A mild spring lift and a body lift will work well with minor or no issues. The biggest challenge with the SOA I have found is grinding the passenger side perch. Just time consuming. The scout IIs will need a new rear/longer propeller shaft.
     
  13. Darrel

    Darrel Dreams of Cub Cadets

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    SOA is my preference if you NEED that much lift. Downside is that it's not a bolt on, really needs a C&T, flat top knuckles, and driveshaft mods, high COG, less stability on side hills, poorer fuel mileage, and more wheel hop. Ride and ground clearance including under axles is awesome though.
     
  14. 72soa

    72soa Binder Driver

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    SOA is my preference if you NEED that much lift. works well to clear 33s. Downside is that it's not a bolt on, really needs a C&T, flat top knuckles, and driveshaft mods, All true. Rear drive shaft mod. I have never had an issue with the front. I am not sure how bolt on those 4 inch lifts are either. I have heard they need a cut and turn also. high COG, less stability on side hills, I have not noticed an issue with this. Could be though. Good shocks help. poorer fuel mileage, Maybe and more wheel hop. Axle hop is seems to be a truck by truck issue. It involves tires and type, gearing and transmission. I agree axle hop is more pronounced in a SOA Scout. I loath axle hop. Again it seems to depend. Count on having to build a ladder bar. Ride and ground clearance including under axles is awesome though. 10-4.
     

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