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Discussion in 'General IH Tech' started by Santa_Cruzin_Taylor, Jul 23, 2020.
I'd love his information!!
Have made some good progress on the engine dismantle. Took off the valve springs and looked at the intake valves. A few of the intake valves looked cracked . Did my best to gently wire wheel the intake valves.
No shims under the valve springs so I'm guessing this motor has never been rebuilt.
I have yet to see Any crackson the block. Taking the camshaft and crankshaft off tomorrow
Post pics of cracked valves !
These are the smaller valves from cylinder #2 and #4. Are valves hard to get replaced? Also, how do I remove these bushings that the valve goes into?
Did you clean ALL the carbon off the valves ? With a wire wheel ??
Go on... drop the other shoe...
You start to reach the point where I ask "are you pullin' my d!ck"
I mentioned you do some research about the parts you're handling a few posts back. Learning by doing is great, but a little knowledge beforehand is gonna go a long way to not damaging any of the parts you're handling.
Take a beer break and read an engine rebuilding manual. The SV manual in particular will also be needed for you to identify the condition of certain parts and proper disassembly and reassembly methods...
Don't disassemble the head. Load up all your parts and take to your machinist for inspection.
I agree with not taking the the heads apart. Let the shop do it. The heads i took to my guy from an '80 or so bus  had been messed with before. He had to find a couple oversize guides for some of the valves. I can go by that shop monday and see what all he can do...
Think I got everything minus the freeze plugs off.
Anybody have some book recommendations for me to read through so I can actually learn how an engine works and goes back together?
Taking the parts to a machine shop next week. To see if I need to scrap it or continue the rebuild.
Here are some pictures of my journey so far...for those who care about a guy who knows nothing about motors.... But I'll learn DAM!T.
Good for you. Only way to learn is do it.
Its been said "You don't learn til you burn."
Making mistakes is a part of life. Its the ones who manage not to repeat them that seem to be more successful in life. That being said, I agree with some of what Mr Banner says. If this was a throw away Chevy/Ford/VW motor, I'd not worry about a novice disassembly. But since this is more of a rare engine nowdays, its good to let someone with a little more seat time to evaluate the heads. Finding the smaller valves (exhaust) is not hard, but you really want the machine shop guy to deal with the stem bushing work (if needed).
Good work on the organizing of parts. How are the connecting rods?
For "class room" look for books authored by William H Crouse. He is a noted author who wrote tech manuals for the Big 3 and numerous class room course manuals for automotive schools both public and private. Check into 1950s through 1960s vintage you can find at eBay, and vintage book stores. As to real world shop work, look for Tom Monroe from HPBooks. In addition you will definitely need an IH Service Manual for the engine particulars.
As to your block, it looks nasty for sure, but mostly it is surface stuff. Like an old house, if the bones are good you might have a candidate for experience and a good engine.
You will need a preliminary inspection for viability. Clean as much as you can, elbow grease will save cost on shop cleaning for magnafluxing or dye penetrant inspection. Dye penetrant will reveal any cracks major or hairline. If there's any freezing weather where the engine set, it's a good chance it's cracked and the project a no-go.
If the bones are good, the pitting and/or scoring from time and disassembly will determine oversize/undersize parts and machining. Add those costs to new parts and block prep such as media blasting or hot tanking. A thorough cleaning and swabbing of the oil galleries with all plugs pulled you can do yourself.
Read the entire engine takedown and rebuild section in this manual. Super interesting and informative.
Thanks for the nudge of encouragement David Banner!
Taking the block, lifters, heads, valves, pistons, con rods, lifters, rocker arms, crankshaft and camshaft to the machine shop to get a formal look st the chances of a rebuild. Will keep you all posted.
He said its in rough shape (I already knew that much )
from my translation of what he said these are the things he observed (please excuse if I use some wrong terminology)
1.) The crankshaf looked like it had been ground down (he ran his finger over the oil inlets and said they felt 'sharp')
2.) The heads were in decent shape and the exaust valves had been re-seated (he said they are surprisingly usable)
3.) The rocker arm assembly is complety toast
4.) He thinks the base of the lifters are supposed to be slightly 'dome' shaped but mine are flat....so he thinks lots of wear on the lifters?
5.) He thinks if i were to get the cylinders bored out the pitting would 'probably' be deeper than max boring is allowed
My next thought;
-Entiriely scrap this 345engine rebuild
Option A: Do a wet compression test an possibly rebuild the top of my running 266v8
Option B: Do a complete 180 and buy a brand new chevy crate motor AND new transmission
I would do option C,look for a good used IH motor.They are out there,even look in junk yards in old school busses
You really never know what you got until you get it to a machinist. I picked up my C59A Ford flathead in pieces for CAN$100.00. Luckily it was good, and only needed a slight overbore. Still cost me almost CAN$3K at the machinist for a short block not counting parts I had already paid for. Personally, I'd be looking at a LS swap at this point.
Dont matter what the lifters look like. You dont want to reuse them anyways. Sounds like he dont want to work on it. How badly are the cylinders pitted ? You can bore a IH engine to .060 +.
Obviously a machinist that doesn't know flat tappet cams have flat lifters. When they are dome shaped is when they are worn out.
Option D - Diesel IH Powerstroke.