345 drivers side valve cover removal

Discussion in 'General IH Tech' started by Beachead, Aug 12, 2014.


  1. Beachead

    Beachead Farmall Cub

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    I am doing the valve cover gaskets on my 79 345. Passenger side was no problem. It's looking like I need to remove the air tubes to be able to wiggle cover out?? Or...remove the bracket that the air pump is attached to?? What a pain in the ***** the smog equipment is. Any other tips? Thanks
     
  2. Gary Billings

    Gary Billings Dreams of Cub Cadets

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    You'll have to take the belts off the p/s and the air pump, then unbolt the bracket from the front of the head and set it forward. The air tubes can be slightly bent away from the valve cover if you need more room. Be careful because they can break if they're rusty. With all that done, the valve cover should come right off.

    -Gary
     
  3. Oakland_Jack

    Oakland_Jack Binder Driver

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    I replaced my smog tubes with tubes that have a check valve that unscrews from the smog rail (anything scout version). This allows the cover to come off much more easily. The check valve on my 79 smog rail was a hindrance.

    all that said, I still have a slight exhaust leak where the new smog rail hits the head. rrrr.

    I encourage anyone sourcing smog rails to get the valve that unscrews from the rail.

    -jack
     
  4. Patrick Morris

    Patrick Morris Lives in an IH Dealership

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    Been a number of years since I've had mine off; did it several times over the years. But I accomplished the job w/o having to remove anything except the spark plug wires and a hose or two. It was a pain though; took some finessing, especially when putting it back on, since I had coated the contact surfaces with RTV and was trying to get the cover onto the gasket without dragging the lip over lifters etc and getting things all gooped up.

    I remember thinking it would have been easier if the lower corner of the smog pump bracket was ground away.
     
  5. Oakland_Jack

    Oakland_Jack Binder Driver

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    if you intend to use goop to augment the gasket, I'll make the following suggestion;

    apply the goop to the valve cover and apply the gasket and cure the goop entirely so that the gasket is joined to the cover. While curing it, make sure it is on a nice flat surface with weight on the valve cover and confirm the gasket holes all line up with the valve cover holes. This keeps the gasket positioned relative to the cover during installation. If you have to remove the cover again, the gasket comes with it. I did this and have no oil leaks. I do not have goop between gasket and head (keeps the head clean too).

    cheers, jack
     
  6. Beachead

    Beachead Farmall Cub

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    Ok, I'll just remove the PS belt and air pump and get it done. I think I might remove the smog equipment after I get through inspection and antique tag it. I will save it all just in case, it's all in good shape still.
    Thanks
     
  7. Patrick Morris

    Patrick Morris Lives in an IH Dealership

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    That's a good idea Jack suggested. Goop might not be needed at the gasket->head contact. The area of contact there is pretty sufficient. But the cover->gasket area is actually somewhat thin; it's just the way the sheet metal cover is formed. So some goop there is a good idea. And pregluing the gasket in place will spare you some headaches.

    As he said, make sure the holes line up. And also that the gasket is nicely centered along the perimeter. If I recall, the gasket also has a couple of slots along the top? They go onto a couple of tabs formed on the, is it the manifold->head gasket? If those end up not lining up perfectly it's not a big deal.

    I would go one step further, now that I remember all this better. If it hasn't been mentioned already, examine your valve cover and make sure the contact surface is still perfectly flat. The covers tend to get distorted around the bolt holes from the bolts being torqued/overtorqued. Any hole that's formed into sort of a cone/bump (as seen from the underside) should be carefully hammered flat again. This will ensure that the clamping force will be even all around the cover.
     
  8. Beachead

    Beachead Farmall Cub

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    Just finished it, everything looked good. I didn't use any gasket seal, I have before on other motors but I said, screw it. Getting the air pump bracket lined back up proved to be hardest part. I ended up taking two bolts out and rotated bracket. Now I hope this solved my burnt oil smoke in engine compartment.
    Thanks for replies.
     

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