3/4 ton Dana 60 axle shaft attachmnet studs

Discussion in 'General IH Tech' started by wjajr, Aug 1, 2020 at 7:52 AM.


  1. wjajr

    wjajr Binder Driver

    Joined:
    Apr 4, 2015
    Messages:
    723
    Likes Received:
    160
    Trophy Points:
    43
    Location:
    Eddington
    This axle uses studs with course thread in hub, and fine thread with a nut to hold axle shaft in place. Every time when removing axle shafts some of the studs remain in hub, and others thread out leaving its nut in place. When reassembled studs protrude from hub at various lengths. I have tried to secure them in hub with Loc-Tite which seems not to hold very well. It seam that this stud and nut method is not able to cinch down well enough for correct torquing. Could I convert to course thread grade 8 bolts, or they not strong enough for this application? Later model trucks look to be using bolts to hold axle shafts.
     
  2. sdhachey

    sdhachey Farmall Cub

    Joined:
    Apr 15, 2003
    Messages:
    476
    Likes Received:
    103
    Trophy Points:
    43
    Location:
    Fitchburg, MA
    Bill, both of my 1970s pickups have used gr. 8 bolts (w/ gr. 8 lock washers) in that spot for years as this became standard practice from the factory. No problems, but some thread locker won't hurt. And some black or gray rtv sealer on the end of the shaft will keep unwanted stuff away from the bearings (in the absence of gaskets which are hard to find). Good luck.
     
  3. wjajr

    wjajr Binder Driver

    Joined:
    Apr 4, 2015
    Messages:
    723
    Likes Received:
    160
    Trophy Points:
    43
    Location:
    Eddington
    Thanks Steve,

    By end of shaft do you mean the mating surface between axle flange and hub? I the past I have used one loop of butcher's twine circling the studs. I read of that string trick somewhere being used back in the day. It is very soft cotton loosely twisted that compresses very easily down to almost nothing, and it works real well trussing up a pot roast.

    Were those hard to find gaskets made from a very thin paper?

    I think I'll convert to bolts, it makes for a cleaner and easier install.
     
  4. Darrel

    Darrel Dreams of Cub Cadets

    Joined:
    Mar 14, 2002
    Messages:
    4,571
    Likes Received:
    957
    Trophy Points:
    113
    Location:
    Colorado
    I've had the same issue. It's a pain. Mine would back out because I was offroading with lockers and large tires. On a stock vehicle most likely the holes are greasy or or too loose in the the threaded holes. Either because some ran a tap through the holes or the fit is just sloppy due to poor manufacturing. The studs could also be too short for the hubs. The holes have to be squeaky clean for the loctite to work. Too clean the holes I stand the hub on end and soak the holes for a few days with carb cleaner. Then blow them out with my pressure washer. I would do all of them not just the loose ones. The studs I clean on my bench grinder with a wire wheel and then degrease. Then blue loctite and torque to spec. with new lock nuts. For the gasket the best by far are the metal shim gaskets. RTV and twine will compress as the hub vibrates and rocks back and forth. Thin paper is not bad. Studs are better than bolts by far all else being equal.
    Here are the metal gaskets I use. Size is listed at the bottom.
    https://www.drivetrainamerica.com/3...b88CPkm52kFRgGB6z93BubS9_gDJ4w8waAhP1EALw_wcB
     
  5. Greg R

    Greg R Lives in an IH Dealership

    Joined:
    Mar 23, 2002
    Messages:
    5,108
    Likes Received:
    745
    Trophy Points:
    113
    Location:
    Lebanon, OR
    I ran into the exact same problem on my 1210. What I found was not all the holes were clean from the factory; some still had tap cuttings squashed in the bottom of some of the holes which caused the unequal stud protrusions.

    What I did to correct the problem was "surgically" clean everything. Wire brushed the studs, and meticulously cleaned all 16 holes until they looked new right to the bottom and post cleaned all with Brakleen. The next important step was to apply Loctite Primer 7649 to the studs and holes before the red Loctite on the studs. Reinstalled the axles with a dressing of Permatex #51813 (no RTV ever) on the flanges and new prevailing torque nuts. Problem solved and no leaks.
     
  6. mallen

    mallen Y-Block King

    Joined:
    Sep 26, 2012
    Messages:
    3,471
    Likes Received:
    838
    Trophy Points:
    113
    Location:
    Sacramento,California
    I used Allen head bolts on mine.
     
  7. wjajr

    wjajr Binder Driver

    Joined:
    Apr 4, 2015
    Messages:
    723
    Likes Received:
    160
    Trophy Points:
    43
    Location:
    Eddington
    Thanks Darrel for the part number. I found Rock Auto stocks that number for $1.24 each.

    Greg R. My studs screw in various depths. Where I'm not going to mud bog, work this truck hard, and install over sized wheels, bolts are in my future. I'll check if the blind holes have some crud or machining relics left behind in them. The truck is going to be a show pony cruse around town device.
     
  8. Greg R

    Greg R Lives in an IH Dealership

    Joined:
    Mar 23, 2002
    Messages:
    5,108
    Likes Received:
    745
    Trophy Points:
    113
    Location:
    Lebanon, OR
    OK. I am biased towards studs. Prepare the bolt length for sufficient engagement but not bottoming out on your torqued setting. The weak link in the power flow makes or breaks you and hopefully with no witnesses :)
     
  9. RinTX

    RinTX High Wheeler

    Joined:
    Jan 19, 2013
    Messages:
    2,299
    Likes Received:
    781
    Trophy Points:
    113
    Location:
    Ft Worth, TX
    I’m having a hard time visualizing this - never seen or worked on a Dana 60. Anyone have some pictures to show the issue/what you are discussing?
     
  10. sdhachey

    sdhachey Farmall Cub

    Joined:
    Apr 15, 2003
    Messages:
    476
    Likes Received:
    103
    Trophy Points:
    43
    Location:
    Fitchburg, MA
    Others have pointed out that extreme conditions will test the fasteners but you'll be fine with bolts based on how you plan to use the vehicle.
     

Share This Page