1980 Scout II Traveler, first time IH owner

Discussion in 'General IH Tech' started by SteveHolland, Jul 5, 2012.


  1. SteveHolland

    SteveHolland Farmall Cub

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    Thanks for the help. I tightened the shift cable a bit and it's working better. (not good, but better) I'm still fighting my cheap bastrad side, he's still winning so I haven't bought a new one yet.

    Different issue. The clips that retain the dstributor cap have lost their temper and just come off after a while. I hit a serious pothole and it just died, opened the hood and the cap was off.

    cheap side is screaming bailing wire, though cable ties could be interesting - Anyone know of a source for replacement clips? Junkyards here have little IH stuff.
     
  2. SteveHolland

    SteveHolland Farmall Cub

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    OK - Just to Blog about what I've done so its someplace I won't lose it:

    Installed Monroe Air Max Shock absorbers on the rear end P/N MA820. the Traveler had Rancho RS5118 which have a extended length of 22.25" and a compressed length of 14.00" The Monroe MA820 have an extended length of 23.00 and a compressed length of 14.375" I'm starting out with them charged up to 40 psi which resulted in lifting the chasis about 1" Rear leaf springs were flatter than I'd like. I still might add a leaf &/or increase air pressure, but the Rancho shocks had already failed so thought I'd give the Air shocks a try first.

    The front end has Rancho RS5115's: extended length 20.75" compressed 13". If I go with Air Max's up front I'll be using the MA829; compressed 14.375" - extended 24.875" - but that's for another weekend.

    I did use some stainless lock wire to make a bail harness for the distributor cap - crimped it down tight. Did that late yesterday and haven't test driven yet. Stomping on the gas it's not missing like it used to so I'm hopeful the missing under acceleration has improved.

    One thing - I used SEAFOAM on the engine, and it hardly smoked at all. What did I do wrong? I'd guess I didn't have it hot enough, but I'm not really sure. 1/3 can into the carb, 1/3 oil 1/3 into gasoline.

    On a lark I bid on an M105A2 trailer on the government liquidations website. Well $150 bid + $21 in fees won it, I'll be picking it up this week. Anybody know how to rig the air brakes to work without a full re-axleing with electric brakes?
     
  3. Ricky B

    Ricky B Farmall Cub

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    Hey, we could be twins.....



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  4. Ricky B

    Ricky B Farmall Cub

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    If you're gonna Seafoam your engine, most of us slowly pour in about 8 ounces thru the brake booster hose, with someone keeping a light foot on the throttle just enough so she won't die. Then we have 'em let go of the gas and pour in the rest of it quickly, 'so the engine dies---or kill the key if need be. THEN we let it marinate all night long and fire them up the next morning. That way it has time to 'work it's magic', so to speak. Methinks you didn't pour in enough, and/or wait long enough----4 ounces of Seafoam while she's running at high idle won't do too much to the engine----especially if you only let it marinate for a few minutes.....
     
    Last edited: Nov 13, 2012
  5. SteveHolland

    SteveHolland Farmall Cub

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    You're right - they could be twins. Except mine's gotten uglier since I went at it with a grinder mounted wire brush. While I'd rather rechrome everything, the checkbook says everything chrome is about to be Krylon black. If I hit the lottery I'll strip it and re-chrome later.

    I'm anticipating a paint job soon. There's a local place who will spray it for $199 with Magic Tractor Paint - IHC Red. The top is already mostly IHC white, but is a work in progress. I had to repair a couple cracks and the 2 layers delaminated right about the driver door. Problem is the repair is smooth the rest is textured. Again checkbook says sanding everything smoothg is cheaper than retexturing - so it's 1/2 way to being smoothed.

    Seafoam - Figures, I follow the directions the one time my gut tells me not to. Oh well - I'll spend the $10 again in a few weeks.

    If it wasn't for 3 boys and a hot wife I'd have the time to get the truck looking better.
     
  6. SteveHolland

    SteveHolland Farmall Cub

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    Put Monroe MA829 Air Max Shocks on the front. They had to go "backwards" with the air fitting heading towards the wheel, but enough cable ties has the air line out of the way with clearance to spare (2.5" suspension lift, 3.5" body lift with 31" tires helped out. without the lift I'm not sure they would work. A better valve would be nice, not fond of the plastic thing they include with the shocks.

    I charged the front to 30 psi and increased the pressure in the rear to 60 psi. Lifted the back 2" from original and the front rse less than 1/2". Ride is radically improved, but since the old Rancho's were totally shot I can't say it's due to the brand or type.
     
  7. Fred Demmon

    Fred Demmon Y-Block King

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    So what did you think of the M105
    I went to look at one a while back, man that thing was huge
     
  8. SteveHolland

    SteveHolland Farmall Cub

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    Size matters.

    Actually pulls easy enough, stopping . . . not so much. Both feet helps. Being serious I used to have a 16' Bayliner (no brakes either) never pulled it with a Scout (used Ford Expedition) and based on weight, tongue length . . . etc - the M105 handles better but brakes slightly worse. (when empty) Both are a huge pain in any stop & go traffic. Since I'll be using the 105 for bikes, canoes, . . .nothing heavy I'm good with it, but yeah a 1101 or one of the other trailers for a CUCV would be better.

    It's going to go on a diet, both mass and tongue weight need to go down. The forward (12" steel) leveling /lift wheel is going to come off. Brake hubs will come off since they're air over hydraulic and won't function anyway. I should be able to get smaller wheels & rims too.

    I did put the rear air shocks up to 90 psi. I'd would have taken them up to the 150 psi max but compressor doesn't get there.

    In a few weeks (months?) the Scout and trailer will have matching paint jobs. IH white over IH Red.
     

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    Last edited: Jan 10, 2013
  9. IH1300

    IH1300 Farmall Cub

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    Steve,
    Welcome to the affliction or addiction.Depends on whether your enjoying it or working on it I wonder who brought that truck.I am in Moulton,Al. but work off of Research Park.Drive a white Turbo Diesel scout every day. Would like to see your traveler sometime.If I can help in any way.just shout.
    Mark
     
  10. Jeff Jamison

    Jeff Jamison Lives in an IH Dealership

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    Put a scout axle under the trailer,then you will have extra parts if needed to get you off of the road or trail
    Jeff
     
  11. SteveHolland

    SteveHolland Farmall Cub

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    Thanks for the help, but the Traveler and trailer are now for sale. Long story short - need the money.

    If anyone interested please let me know: 1993usna@gmail.com
     
  12. SteveHolland

    SteveHolland Farmall Cub

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    OK - Didn't sell it. Painted it instead. Amazing what $39 of Majic Tractor paint will do for a rig. The chrome was peeling off the grill and light bezels so I hit it with a light coat of spray on bed liner then black Krylon.

    The forward turn/marker light bulb sockets had failed so I drilled them out and made some custom LED panels. 3 bulbs. 120 Lumens each; Also used some Grote marker lights on the sides. Used the same LED bulbs and they look good. (and $8 each - including the LEDs is the right price) I'd love to be a stock enthusiast but the checkbook says it's not gonna happen.

    Now if I can just get the carburetor tuned properly we’ll be in business.
    Runs great cold, but when it get warm it wants to die if left in gear, If I put it in park or neutral it idles good, but a bit fast. Smells strong of gas and wants to backfire a lot when hot, diesels when hot too. Probably have a valve issue, but that’s going to have to wait.
     

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  13. JeffR

    JeffR Administrator Staff Member Administrator Moderator

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    Welcome back. So did you paint it or have it painted?
     
  14. Scavenger Scout

    Scavenger Scout Binder Driver

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    Nice looking rig!

    I've been down the road you describe with high idle in neutral, followed by dying in gear. If the timing is anywhere near correct, look for a vacuum leak.

    Good luck with the truck
     
  15. Allenjr

    Allenjr Farmall Cub

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    Steve,

    Did you ever get the model number and cfm of that carb, also wanted to know if you are running a 4 barrel intake manifold or have an adaptor. I run through this forum when i first picked up my 75 scout, mine has sat since 07 or so. The stock carb i had on the scout was junk, seems like many have made mistakes with oversized carbs and 4 barrels mounted on 2 barrel manifolds. Looks like the carb is very close to the water elbow...might be getting too hot. If you have a buddy with a good 2 barrel carb i would give ita try.

    I'm no expert but from talking to guys and looking through the forum its hard to beet the holley 2300 2 barrel. I picked up the 350cfm with electric choke on ebay (used), bolted her on set the fuel level, adjusted the accelerator pump, set the idle and fuel mixture and it ran great. Also had some vacuum and a major exhaust manifold leaks that caused some issues under load.

    Good Luck,

    Allen
     
  16. SteveHolland

    SteveHolland Farmall Cub

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    Well - having messed with the carb for 3 months I think I've got a fuel issue.

    Carb is a Summit 650 cfm 4bbl on a 4 bbl manifold. I realized I've got a fuel issue since I set the floats. Got them dead on, then when it died this time (in the daylight) the fuel sights (both of them) showed almost no gas, so for some reason the carb is being starved for gas. It happens every time it gets warmed up. In Alabama that means - maybe - 10 miles of driving. Hadn't really thought about vapor lock before. Will an inline fuel pump help that much?

    The fuel gauge only works 1/2 way. When full it shows 1/2 tank, at 1/2 tank it shows empty. I know it's empty when I run out of gas. I keep a 5 gallon tank with me most of the time.

    Due to the bad sender I figuered I'd drop the tank, replace it and while I'm at it - see if there's some type of debris clogging the sender. photos attached. It's a 33 gal tank, in good shape, but the ports have been plugged and 1, the larger was just plain open. 1 was hooked to a vent, but all the emission control stuff has been gutted so it doesn't really go anywhere. Tank is surprsingly clean & rust free on the inside (what I can see anyway)

    Could be a vapor lock issue, bad fuel pump, clogged fuel line . . . My intent is to install new sender, an inline electric fuel pump, not mess with the existing fuel pump at all and probably blow out the fuel line - it's solid stainless so I'd like to keep it.

    Anybody have any recommended actions while I'm at it?

    Also, can I plug all the ports on the tank or do I need to keep a vent open?

    Since it's pre '81 (and I'm in Alabama) I can do pretty much anything to the truck. I'll wire brush and paint the tank and bottom of the truck while it's off. (Actually I'll probably con my 12 year old into doing it - he seems to think the truck will magically become his in 4 years)
     

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  17. Doc Stewart

    Doc Stewart Content Team Staff Member Moderator

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    Keep a vent open or you will have problems filling the tank.

    My California solution to vapor lock - given that you have solved other problems like vacuum leaks and clogged fuel lines - is to put an electric pump back as close to the tank as possible. Operate it with a switch on the dash. Use it on hot days or slow driving as in traffic or on rough trails.
     
  18. SteveHolland

    SteveHolland Farmall Cub

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    The hose between the fill neck and the tank tore on me when I dropped the tank.

    Anybody know a good part number or source for replacement?
     
  19. Doc Stewart

    Doc Stewart Content Team Staff Member Moderator

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    I think you will need 2" ID fuel filler hose from NAPA. Sold by the foot., Not cheap.
     
  20. bull

    bull Binder Driver

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