Glad your door orientation did not change with your mock up.... looks like you won that battle! I know left of nothing about Scout IIs, but I find it interesting (and deep down inside thankful as hell) that the Scout 80s did not rust on the windshield frame. Or at least not on any of the ones I have or seen.
I'm super interested in your windshield project. Was it hard to dissect using a spot weld bit? I've got 4 frames here in various forms of rot and hoping to piece one together without too much devcon/ JB weld epoxy. Keep up the wicked work. Sent from my SM-G870W using Tapatalk
That's good news. I've been keeping my eye out for an older scout. I like them a lot. Just nervous about no quarter panel availability Thanks, Chris, I'm learning a lot too! I will document it in detail, then. It wasn't hard to dissect. On one section near the glass mounting lip, I couldn't use the spot cutter. I used a die grinder with a deburring bit. I'm going to try and make the next higher assembly on this project instead of patching little pieces if possible. Wish me luck!
If your interested in fiberglass quarters, then those can be had. But no repop fenders that I know of.
Hmm....I'd have to go for the metal I made stuff today. This is where my heart is. I REALLY like the challenge and I don't get to shape much. As I dig into these frames, they are bad. I'm dedicated to making this scout 100% rust free so this is going to be a toughy. First, I start with a flexible pattern. The paper is an actual representation of the shape of the pattern, including bends... I have lots of different gauges of sheetmetal I keep on hand. I sneak it in when no one is looking That's the harbor freight electric shear I use to cut off pieces. I think I've covered that before... I wash the sheetmetal with lacquer thinner to keep the oils and dirt off the markers and tools. Then I make an accurate trace of my template... Then I wheel the contour into the panel. This is not a compound curve, so it's easy. You "could" bend it over a pipe in theory. Then I bend the side that will be contoured. You "could" used the edge of a table... I take the contour of the frame with this cheapo contour gauge... That's are cheapo harbor freight shrinker /stretchers. They work best when your flange is 1/2". Stretch too much...Shrink it back. Shrink too much...Stretch it back out. Contour match below... In theory, you can't stretch with metal on metal hammering alone. Like this.... When trimming down flanges after the fact, I use these for accurate lines... At this point you have a template with lines on it where flanges are to be bent or shaped. What I do at that point is to cut the template down on those lines to mark the steel for the next step. The template gets progressively smaller as each additional part of the panel is being marked...If that makes sense. I use the bead roller to bend over flanges that have contours in them in several passes... To be continued...
At this point you have a complete panel... I have switch from 3/32 tungsten an 1/16th rod to 1/16th " tungsten and .044 rod. I'm REALLY digging this combo.for this sheetmetal. It's the cat's meow... Position and shape in everything. I use anything and everything... Thanks for looking! Now for the rest of it...Piece by piece
I suspect once you complete your windshield frame, you could quit your "day" job, and manufacture and sell these for a more lucrative living!
wow,and just think I did it the easy way by cutting out the piece you just made.You make it look easy,but the right tools help.My next will be a shrinker strecher
Haha. These parts really need to be stamped. Some of these pieces, like the inner panel to this piece and the end pieces are just so complicated
I think i caught them on a ridiculous sale one day. I mount them on 2x2 square steel so I can slide them into my trailer hitch style mount on my weld bench
I think i caught them on a ridiculous sale one day. I mount them on 2x2 square steel so I can slide them into my trailer hitch style mount on my weld bench
Pretty uneventful but I noticed that a shift ear had broken off of the Dana 20 When I was researching twin stick possibilities. I located a basket case for $50 and have had the joy of trying to figure out the disassembly and assembly of the sliding shift rods. Things look decent internally so I am replacing seals and gaskets... I will rebuild the 727 next.
Hold the bus big guy. I see nothing in your build thread title about anything mechanical! I'm really looking forward to tearing into my frame, axles, etc. this spring, so perhaps I can learn how to work a wrench from you too!
Haha!!!! You crack me up brother. Well, I DO have to do "some" mechanicals but will probably just mention them as I go. They're just kind of one of those necessary evils. This is not a restoration per say, but I'll probably do valve seals and engine gaskets, rebuild the 727, brakes, etc. Someone put 4:56 gears, Detroit lockers, CV axles, stainless brake lines, an SOA, and a bunch of mods under this rusty pig at some point fairly recently. I went hunting on California Craigslist on a whim, and shot some emails out. Well, it's kind rolling out of control. Rust free parts and a running scout 80 are on the radar. How my wife hasn't killed me I don't know.
I've been catching up on other peoples' projects as I wait on a game plan for blasting and flipping the body. I accidentally bought a salvage car, working on my daughter's wrecked Cruze, and I'm waiting on rust free inner fenders from California, so that's gonna soak up some funds. Just did a little exploratory probe into the 727 I wanted to know if there were any broken parts or if I just need a soft rebuild. The torque converter was cracked, so I have a new one. End play is excessive at .105. spec is .036 to .085... I have a book, but I'd appreciate any input on that. I'm not gonna "big deal" this rebuild up. It was a working transmission but I am a big proponent of knowing what ya got and minimizing surprises. There was a valve body screw loose and this rear output shaft nut was way loose... something cool that I got to work on this weekend was to challenge my metal shaping skills. I think that this will help my windshield frame rehab. Someone wanted this vintage steel VW extended by 10 1/4" so I made up some custom panels...
Been busy rebuilding the transmission and taking a break from the body. Everything is all set. I bought the rebuild book, a bushing driver set, and the extra thrust washer kit(which doesn't come with the rebuild). Both were must haves. I have a reverse band, an overrunning clutch retainer and the scout double rear seals exclusive to scouts on order. Then she's ready for reassembly. Everything was in pretty good shape and I was pretty thorough. I have a solvent tank so it all be clean as a whistle I removed the body from the frame the other day. Today, 3 generations of Carlton's put her on her side and I built a body cart in 10 minutes. The wooden body cart ain't pretty, but she's solid haha. Now I'm able to weld, grind, sandblast, epoxy primer, seam seal, and raptor line it.
I didn't realize you were that old (or young)! Great to see your father? and son? help out. I guess you had second thoughts on a rotisserie? I'm curious, care to take a guesstimate on the weight of the tub? I'm thinking that the Scout 80s weigh in at 450-550 lbs. And the check's in the mail!
I'm in the middle. I'm 45. My dad and my son. The body is pretty light actually. I can lift each end pretty easily. I am a little over extended right now with buying a salvage car, tax season, scout supplies, other people needs, and looking for a vehicle for my son...Even I have limits, lol. My wife is quite gracious, but I think that I better lay low for a while!
I'm in the middle. I'm 45. My dad and my son. The body is pretty light actually. I can lift each end pretty easily. I am a little over extended right now with buying a salvage car, tax season, scout supplies, other people needs, and looking for a vehicle for my son...Even I have limits, lol. My wife is quite gracious, but I think that I better lay low for a while!
