1977 Scout II body rebuild

Discussion in 'Binder Builds' started by Jrc55, Sep 4, 2018.


  1. 3Duckdaddy

    3Duckdaddy Farmall Cub

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    Jim, everything looks great. Can I ask what epoxy and paint your are using? I might have missed it. The pictures you have taken really help.
     
  2. Jrc55

    Jrc55 Farmall Cub

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    Ed, this is stressful stuff! Trying to get all this metal to materialize back into the right spot!

    3duck, do you mean for the engine or the body?
     
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  3. 3Duckdaddy

    3Duckdaddy Farmall Cub

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    Body please
     
  4. Jrc55

    Jrc55 Farmall Cub

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    I'm kind of all over the place. I use Nason Ful-Poxy epoxy primer over bare metal and most parts, about $200 for 1 ½ gallons sprayable.

    3M Marhyde $100/gallon with activator,

    Dupont(now Axalta) chromabase basecoat

    Nason clear on non-essential parts or jambs. Not sure which all over clear I'll use yet

    5 star hotrod black 2k satin black for chassis and engine parts $115 per gallon activated.

    I use Nason Selectprime here and there. It lays down nice and smooth if you just want to shoot right over it in its 2 hour or less window, or you can use it over the epoxy as a filler primer
     
  5. 3Duckdaddy

    3Duckdaddy Farmall Cub

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    Paint is voodoo magic to me. I worked with my dad in his fab shop and everything was painted with farm store paint if it needed it or not!:tractor:
    Epoxy and 2K etc. I really need to research. I'm a long way from paint with my project. Just trying to learn.
    Thanks.
    George
     
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  6. Jrc55

    Jrc55 Farmall Cub

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    It's all the same concept . I don't like shooting acrylic or alkyd enamels because they are soooo unforgiving. Once you get into the bc/cc its a whole different animal. You can stop, wet sand and start over at any stage. I suggest doing all the piece parts first for practice. For instance, I've shot EVERYTHING! I've been building up my confidence for the all over job. Base coat clear on valve covers for instance is a great way to practice with no major consequences.

    And, I've been experimenting with what works well for the money.

    Hot rod black is a direct to metal paint. So on certain engine brackets, I painted on bare metal(like the factory did) on others, I did epoxy first, on others I did non DTM primer and scratch tested it. I'm still learning
     
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  7. supercrouton

    supercrouton Farmall Cub

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    You are a beast! I am totally impressed with the stuff you are doing. You resourcefulness and determination are amazing as your results show!!!
     
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  8. Jrc55

    Jrc55 Farmall Cub

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    You're too kind, man. I enjoy watching what you're doing on Instagram. Love the level of detail!

    Well, I think that I got most of everything that I need now. Paint prices make me sick to my stomach. Ugh.

    I also built a little paint booth, air flow box. Works pretty good so far! And I also got to fabricate a little, hee hee. I drag the filter boxes out of an unnamed dumpster.
    IMG_20191213_174343746.jpg IMG_20191214_111104921.jpg IMG_20191214_111057406.jpg IMG_20191214_125430_722.jpg IMG_20191214_114933341.jpg IMG_20191214_114922216.jpg IMG_20191214_171456_461.jpg
     
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  9. Jrc55

    Jrc55 Farmall Cub

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    I won't go into "paint anxiety", but it's a thing. Washed and scrubbed the heck out of the shop and scout... IMG_20191216_142253_220.jpg IMG_20191216_142059731.jpg

    I taped off and jambed the insides of my doors with basecoat clear coat...
    IMG_20191216_190102_794.jpg
    Still not 100% sure of the plan, I knew that it wasn't in my skill level to paint the whole truck at once. Windshield frame, grill, hood, tailgate, etc can be done later. It is taking a chance doing the fenders in a separate session, but I HAVE got to get past the hump here. The shop is tied up and the heat has been cranked up for a month and a half. I decided to go for it today, tub and doors.
    IMG_20191217_103702216.jpg
    I ziptied this light to my gun. I could NOT have done it without the light. Custom gun lights are $200. I'm just not ready to make that kind of commitment yet.
    Base coat first...
    IMG_20191217_180655976.jpg
    IMG_20191217_180825_791.jpg And I only took video, but here's a couple of screen shots. I absolutely love this color with black accents...
    Screenshot_20191217-205952.png

    I can't seem to load any more pics right now
     
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  10. oneof3k

    oneof3k Binder Driver

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    The time it takes for all the prep work borders on ridiculous. I'm learning in a hurry why a mediocre paint job might cost several thousand (retail) and a nice paint job a bunch more. Yours is definitely in the latter category! And I agree with you, I like the solid color you chose.

    Now finish up so we can drool and you can turn down the heat!
     
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  11. Jrc55

    Jrc55 Farmall Cub

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    Now my results won't be top notch, not having a paint booth, not knowing how to paint, and using some cheaper materials, but this level of effort would be 10k easy if not more. I'm just going for presentable, not show. For me, it checks a mental box of being able to say that I built and painted the entire thing. Now, I just can't wait for the custom mods I have in mind for the top and some wiring ideas!!!
     
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  12. Kohler

    Kohler Farmall Cub

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    Pfffffffffff.... I'd disagree. Just be careful putting the hood back on when it comes time. I found that to be the hardest to get installed and adjusted without scratching.
     
  13. Jeff Jamison

    Jeff Jamison Lives in an IH Dealership

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    Painters tape all around the edges helps.My problem was front fenders to windshield frame,there is still blue painters tape in that joint.
     
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  14. Jrc55

    Jrc55 Farmall Cub

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    Thank you guys!
    Here's some more...
    IMG_20191218_133606347.jpg
    IMG_20191218_133553017.jpg
    I'm doing some cutting and buffing and blend work. I sanded through to primer on a door that I put a run in. I'm working on mastering the process. Well, not master, but taking the mystery out of it all and being able to reliably blend base coat and clear right now for that repair.
    IMG_20191218_120831405.jpg
    IMG_20191219_134603242.jpg
    Now I'll cut and buff the dust out of this and take another look. I was asked why I didn't repaint the whole door. Well, learning the process means that you can learn to fix the things that may happen later on down the road, yourself!

    Just to recap because I think that it's important. I believe that you can do a decent job without spending a lot of money. I've tried to show some processes and modified tooling to get the job done and I hope it has helped as I have fumbled along on the learning quest myself. I'll probably do a cost analysis soon if anyone is interested. I haven't spent that much. I should be WAAAAAAY under resale value
     
  15. RinTX

    RinTX High Wheeler

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    FYI - I saw a video where a guy dealt with a run with a razor blade. Then very light sanding.

    These latest photos are just the base coat? You are still going to clearcoat over it ?
     
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  16. oneof3k

    oneof3k Binder Driver

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    Yes, a recap of your costs would be welcomed. But if your like me, I have almost as much into "shop" costs as I do into the actual truck (I track both). And, in my case anyways, I have expendable shop costs (e.g., shielding gas, sandpaper, etc. that could arguably be posted against the Scout) and capital costs (for lack of a better word) such as rotisserie, lighting, tools, air compressor, etc. At least the later group can be spread out over several vehicles! Kinda hard to define how much money is truly tied into a project, not to mention time, which is another story for another day I suspect.

    I'm also going to need a large budget for psychological services after your finished with your current project as I'll probably go into withdrawal. I guess you will just need to start another International project!!!!!!! Nice job Jim!
     
  17. Jrc55

    Jrc55 Farmall Cub

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    Rin, I studied those videos too recently. I did the razor blade trick on another run and it worked out much, much better for me. No matter how rigid my sanding block is, I just don't seem to be able to tackle runs in the clear very effectively. I got the door wet sanded again today in 1200 with a great color match. I may just reclear the whole thing again if the clear doesn't blend perfectly after buffing it. And yes, that's full clear coat.

    Ed, oh I won't really count anything other than hard parts. Here's why...you are correct. The overall costs like heat, lighting, gas, etc would kill the project. But for me, all of the shop costs and tools are a 100% long term investment in myself and the next project.

    Every task leads to a greater confidence and every tool leads to me doing this at a greater level on the next project.

    I could not pay for this experience. Mistakes can be read about, or even taught, but until you have to work through a disaster, it doesn't really seem to sink in. For me anyhow. I guess that's why I absorb shop costs as adult vocational training. Because it's a school for me.
     
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  18. Jrc55

    Jrc55 Farmall Cub

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    Merry Christmas, I snuck out and painted some parts.

    I wet sanded with 600 when I realize that the clear coat was not going to blend without a blending solvent on that door. Redid the BC/CC on the door, then final prep and paint of both fenders ...
    IMG_20191225_220815129.jpg IMG_20191225_214150_092.jpg IMG_20191225_220807842.jpg IMG_20191225_212515385.jpg IMG_20191225_214150_113.jpg IMG_20191225_212430906.jpg
     
  19. mongocanfly

    mongocanfly High Wheeler

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    Looks good jrc...
    I was looking at your fan filter box and was thinking of using something similar,,,,but I also noticed your shop and was wondering if you get a lot of overspray dust inside the shop...I tried painting a blazer in my shop about 15yrs ago and I still got tools with a green tint to them..in spite of my fans..
    I think I'm fixing to make one bay of my shop with plastic curtains and a fan/filter setup...spraying outside just ain't working..
     
  20. Jrc55

    Jrc55 Farmall Cub

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    Thanks! If you've painted, then you know how much overspray you can get...specifically during the clear coat stage. As you can see in my shop, I have quite a bit of stuff left out. I leave the heavy dust on things such as tool boxes and such on the other side of the shop. By the time the clear coat cloud settles, it is JUST basically dust. And there is an extra level of protection leaving things dusty initially.

    An "all over" job will really be pushing the abilities of the air box. The tub kind of did. But doing things in pieces like II have has been great, actually. Base coat is not a problem whatsoever, just the clear coat.
     

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