1977 Scout II body rebuild

I have had a hard time sandblasting, but I did do the firewall and the underneath...

After grinding, welding and fine tuning the bottom of the tub, I prepped, epoxy primed and seam sealed. It came out soooo nice. This is a 7 month mile Stone and it feels good to have a zero excuses, rust free body!


Next was U-pol raptor liner time. It had the best reviews on Amazon so I picked up the 8 liter kit with the U-pol gun for under $200.
I've never done this before so I taped everything off and thankfully put card board down. There's not much over spray, but it does drop to the ground at your feet.

This is one bottle so far. I jambed everything thoroughly first. It was suggested to me to black out the underside, then line it. I thought that was an expensive use of paint. Just do a good job and you will see no gray primer.

If you've never painted before, no worries. This uses none of those skills. ANYONE can do this. The suggested pressure was 60. But 95psi worked best for me. I used an air dryer too.

Early in the cure. Hoping the darker spots blend in...

I also blasted, epoxy primed and 2k urethaned some parts. Booster, m/c, steering gear and some dash parts...

 

I should add that I painted those parts, not raptor lined them. Also, the undercarriage took 3 liters exactly.

 

I'm considering using a bed liner on my floors and bed, how did the raptor liner look when it dried? I'm not sure I can buy it off the shelf up north of the border, but i'm not that far from the great state of Maine... Also, thanks for your thorough documentation, it's really helped me understand how these things are put together.

 

I'm glad my documentation helps! It also helps to keep me accountable.
I would assume that anything you buy on Amazon would ship to Canada? I shot it and left the shop. I believe it's an hour flash time so it should look better. The texture is amazing and consistent.

Jambing the structures first was important to me for full coverage, filling in the flat panels later may have had two cure times going on at different rates. I will probably go smooth and one step inside the tub floor.

 

That is a great job Jim!

Pardon my ignorance, but what do you mean by jambing? Might that be blocking off (jambing) nuts and holes so no product gets in, or am I just showing what little I know.

Also, do you happen to know if the U-pol liner is tintable or would it accept paint over that liner? Maybe I'm really showing my ignorance by not reading up on it first! Edit: yes and yes after reading up on the product (need to purchase the tintable version though).

 

Hey, Ed. Thanks for sending that DVD. Whether it's the right term or not, I mean lining all the hard to reach places thoroughly before moving on to big flat areas. Like when you paint a car. You paint all of the door jambs, trunk and hood crevices first, then put the car together and paint the whole thing.

They do make a tintable liner. I just bought the black because it was my preference, but they sell that too.

 

What you need is dominion sure Seal shake and shoot. It's basically the exact same thing as raptor liner. Comes in black and tintable. I find the tintable sprays better than the black. I am doing my whole rig is DSS S&S the only raptor liner I used was the under side and firewall.

DSS S&S is only $155 for a 4 litre kit. The last two tintable kits I bought also came with shutz guns.


Your local Napa can order it in!
Sent from my SM-G870W using Tapatalk

 

Looking good! I love using raptor liner it’s awesome stuff for sure.

 

Thanks, I’ll look into it. The entire body of my scout was done with rocker guard from Canadian Tire when I bought it. Looks pretty mean, but didn’t adhere well to the hard top.

 

We have pretty strict VOC regulations up here, so some stuff won’t ship. I’ve purchased a lot of oil based finishes in the states and driven across the border without issue though.

And I was going to ask what jambing was as well, but I see someone beat me to it. Thanks again.

 

Thx for the clarification. This Scout stuff is a never-ending learning experience!

 

Thanks for the interaction guys.

Been busy. Thankfully, I removed, disassembled, rearched and matched, and sand blasted, epoxy primed, and 2k urethaned my front leaf springs.( I went into detail on the rears previously)
It was nice to be able to paint outside...

Also hole sawed out all the bushings.


My standard is epoxy priming then a 2k black over that. ( I used to use John Deere blitz black with a hardener...Best chassis paint for $22/ gallon EVER but I can't get it locally)

I bought the scout suspension bushing kit x2. When I got to the upper front shackle bushings, I noticed that it was a different animal. Long story short, I could not locate 9/16" steel bushings anywhere in town, and I was disgusted to put it bluntly.

This is going to help sooooo much in wobbly steering!!!!

I made my own out of Delrin...



I rebuilt my transmission as well. I was pretty thorough and went step by step, assembly by assembly. Added a new reverse band and over running clutch retainer. Just need a couple of finishing touches...

It may seem counter intuitive to prime and paint a frame, then dissect it again, but it's much easier to not have a greasy or on the flip side freshly sandblasted frame rusting in the shop. I'll be repairing this rear section tomorrow that I have been putting off.

Front leaf springs are back in. I'm doing zero to the engine. I'm not even painting it. I hope to put the engine, trans, transfer case back in, them the body for the last time to weld the quarter panels on.

 

Looks awesome as usual! Question: did you over arch the front springs or is that "normal" if they are unloaded?

 

I put a little extra arch in them. I know they will settle using the cold press method. Here's the shackle position difference with that boat anchor and rebuild trans and transfer case I put together today. My engine hoist was STRAINING! I'm taking quite a bit of pleasure in doing nothing with the engine and leaving it ugly.

I also sprayed the front half of the interior in raptor liner today...

 

Looking real good!

Whats the frame extension for on the front? Did I miss that note or is it for a giant winch bumper?

Is the rear most frame/ bumper mount rotted out under that piece of flat bar that was welded across it?

Are you planning on cutting off the shock mounts and putting long travel shocks in to go with all the extra travel and clearance gained by the SOA lift?

 

Thanks! Someone had done some incredible upgrades and put some money into this chassis at one point. It's got some really cool custom bumpers, and yes someone added a front extension on the frame with some pretty good welds.

I didn't cut off that piece on the back yet. I'm thinking that the reason it's bent is that someone had done the logging chain thing while mudding in that weak area of the frame. I hope to know more when I cut into it.

The scout had some 5125? Bilsteins so I plan on running those again. I repainted them and will be making new Delrin bushings for those. I didn't see any signs of clearance issues.

Thanks for asking!

 

Been doing a lot of paintwork as far as calipers, steering components, and odds and ends. I repaired the rear of the frame. Turns out it was just bent rearward like I thought. Cut it apart, rewelded, and repainted.

Let my son get some experience on the lathe. We made 3/4" body lift pucks from aluminum. That'll give me just a hair more clearance because the new poly body bushings are recessed on the front mounts and place the front floor pans a little closer to the frame than what I like.


Also got my rust free front inner fenders from southern California. That's gonna save me 80 hours of work


Other than that, trying to fly now. Putting things together, knocking out the firewall and the body goes on the frame for the last time so I can weld the quarter panels on finally.

 

Amazing work! It doesn't take a room full of expensive tools to do the work you're doing, but without your knowledge and willingness to try, as well as the expertise and attention to detail, I don't think I, or anyone else would be able to do half of what you've accomplished.

A note about your doors and your choice to wrap the skin along the bottom of the door as one piece... There are drain holes (slots) along the bottom of the doors, right where the horizontal and vertical meet. Will you be drilling or slotting some drain holes in?
Why make that in one piece instead of remake the inside bottom of the door and then just wrap the skin over the bottom?

 

Thanks for the compliments, Wiregeek. Those door repair panels are actually a new design made by Super Scout specialists. I will drill a couple of small drain holes in the bottom before all is said and done. All the peripherals (doors, tailgate, fenders, bumpers) go to the blasters this weekend so after that I'll fine tune the metal work and start the body work!