1975 IH 150 - a n00b adventure

Discussion in 'Binder Builds' started by holgar, Mar 29, 2017.


  1. holgar

    holgar Farmall Cub

    Joined:
    Mar 6, 2017
    Messages:
    28
    Likes Received:
    5
    Trophy Points:
    3
    Location:
    Seattle, WA
    Hey Everyone,
    I'm a pretty handy guy growing up on a horse farm... then grew up and got an office job. So to trade some of that 'office' stress for that 'why won't this stop leaking stress', my wife bought me a truck for my birthday! This build thread is to hopefully document as much of this journey as possible.

    The truck was bought for $800 on Craigslist. I'll admit, I was deadset on a '72 Chevy Pickup but on a whim drove this international and wow... the torque, the power steering, the look/feel... it was over. It had plenty of power, 4wd (bonus) and less than half my budget! Only kicker... it didn't really turn right and had a broken leaf spring (more on that later).
    IMG_1566.JPG

    Since bringing it home a week ago, I've done some digging to see what I'm dealing with. I've bought the parts catalog from BinderBooks, purchased a shop manual on ebay and after an IH guru pointed me to it - found the LST on the back of the glovebox!
    FullSizeRender.jpg
    After some careful research (thank you binderplanet world). The 1975 150 has the following:
    Front Axel: FA-62 02063 Dana44 3500# (odd as it's a 150)
    Steering: S-282 05282 708D Sag Power
    Clutch: 11216 11" 6 Spring
    Engine: E-99 12099 V304A Gas w/ Exh Emission (BUMMER - was told it was a 392!)
    Transmission/Transfer Case: TC-142 13142 New Process 205 / T-427 13427 WG T-19 Warner 4 Speed wide ratio synchronized low w/ 1.68 in 3D
    Rear Axel: RA-28 14028 Dana44 w/ Trac-Lock

    Now to say I was disappointed in the 304 was an understatement. Not that I need more than a 304, but more is better! But it made sense... thinking back to when I primed the carb- it was a 2 barrel (not 4), but I wrote it off to 'you know nothing about trucks!'. Well I again went back to the forums and figure out how to identify the engine...
    IMG_1580.JPG Its a V392E! So either the LST is wrong, someone changed the engine at some point, I read the LST wrong but I'm happy! More power!!!! But I'm still at a loss on why the 2 barrel carb?

    Now to the broken leaf spring. I can't see any cracks in it, but the previous owner said "I hit a stump at about 10 mph and it broke". I took a gamble that that was it (and getting new set made is $500). Well... as I said, no visible cracks so I went back to the forums on what happens when you hit an object and can't turn afterwards - BROKEN CENTER PIN!
    http://www.binderplanet.com/forums/index.php?threads/dana-44-frontend-problem-wont-turn-left.46656/

    So I felt through the spring plate and sure enough - pin is missing from one side (and it's off center to the 'bump' block) and the other side has a pin and is centered. Hopefully all I need to do is clamp the spring pack, find new u-bolts + center pin, reinstall and be back on the road!

    I think that's all for now- Cheers!
     
    Last edited: Mar 29, 2017
    CazNeck79 likes this.
  2. CazNeck79

    CazNeck79 Binder Driver

    Joined:
    Oct 10, 2013
    Messages:
    967
    Likes Received:
    235
    Trophy Points:
    43
    Location:
    Chico, CA
    Awesome, Welcome!
     
  3. scout2000

    scout2000 Lives in an IH Dealership

    Joined:
    Nov 2, 2011
    Messages:
    5,115
    Likes Received:
    1,595
    Trophy Points:
    113
    Location:
    DFW, TX
    Welcome to BinderPlanet, and congrat's on your new ride.

    Its great that your LST was still there, mine was long gone.

    Sounds like for the current, you just want to fix stuff so you can drive it around. What are your long term plans for your truck?
     
  4. holgar

    holgar Farmall Cub

    Joined:
    Mar 6, 2017
    Messages:
    28
    Likes Received:
    5
    Trophy Points:
    3
    Location:
    Seattle, WA
    Long term plan... not a daily driver but the truck I can learn as much as possible and have forever using for hauling, dump runs, cruising around town/on forest service roads and maybe a pop the hood at a show!

    Plan is to remove as much rust as I can realistically (replacing with metal when I can, bondo when I can't). I'm an OK welder and plan on redoing all the sheet metal in the bed area (no curves) and the floor pans. Most of the outside metal is good except for the passenger bed panel needs it's straps replaced (loose). The cab needs a complete makeover, the tanks need to be dropped, senders fixed and restored (can't wait for that process... shake, drain, shake, drain). When the tanks get dropped, install an electric fuel pump on a momentary switch to fix the drain back problem on cold starts (mechanical for normal use).

    Who knows what will be uncovered, just trying to figure out what's in front of me!
     
  5. winchested

    winchested Y-Block King

    Joined:
    Oct 12, 2016
    Messages:
    3,963
    Likes Received:
    1,547
    Trophy Points:
    113
    Location:
    Delhi, ON, Canada
    Looks great. Can't wait to see more pictures, we all love those.

    My friend just traded his 72 C10 Cheyene with an LS in it for a 77 Scout plus cash.
     
  6. J.J.

    J.J. Lives in an IH Dealership

    Joined:
    Dec 14, 2003
    Messages:
    5,888
    Likes Received:
    3,147
    Trophy Points:
    113
    Location:
    Castalian Springs, TN
    Congrats on your purchase and welcome to the madness! I am looking forward to the build and progress.

    JJ in TN
     
  7. holgar

    holgar Farmall Cub

    Joined:
    Mar 6, 2017
    Messages:
    28
    Likes Received:
    5
    Trophy Points:
    3
    Location:
    Seattle, WA
    Well... the title of the build thread is n00b for a reason- after more thought and parts comparisons in the parts book last night, it's a 4 barrel carb (having only seen single barrel carbs in the past... didn't think about the 2 barrels under what I assume is the throttle body?)
    IMG_1581.JPG
    Really need to replace that gasket between the air cleaner and the carb (half gone).
     
  8. jeff campbell

    jeff campbell Lives in an IH Dealership

    Joined:
    Jan 8, 2003
    Messages:
    15,837
    Likes Received:
    1,728
    Trophy Points:
    113
    Location:
    lima,ohio
    just make 1
     
  9. holgar

    holgar Farmall Cub

    Joined:
    Mar 6, 2017
    Messages:
    28
    Likes Received:
    5
    Trophy Points:
    3
    Location:
    Seattle, WA
    So more details... not good news (but more pictures for those that asked).
    In doing a deeper dive into the suspension issue, the leaf is 100% broken. A picture of one side vs. the other:
    IMG_1594.JPG IMG_1597.JPG
    So spring packs are in the future! From another forum, 55-806 is the part number, available here. But I can't verify that in the parts catalog... Especially, since the LST says this is a 3500# 200 axel vs a regular 150 axel? I've also called Bryant Motors here in Seattle (great IH guy) and he says he can have them made (and I trust he'd get the right one). Thinking about going that route (local business!). I can't figure out what center pins, ubolts, bushings, etc I need... Help? A few more pictures:
    IMG_1595.JPG IMG_1593.JPG IMG_1592.JPG

    A few other questions, any idea on what engine is in here? From what I've read, this oil filter is not normal for this age engine... adapter?
    IMG_1596.JPG IMG_1600.JPG IMG_1599.JPG IMG_1598.JPG

    Lastly... if this was your truck, what would you do next (don't say scrap it!)? I'm thinking about doing the baseline items to make it road worthy first even if I may redo them later (like get the headlights working even though I plan on gutting the wiring at some point)? Change fluids?
     
    Last edited: Mar 31, 2017
  10. Jeff Jamison

    Jeff Jamison Lives in an IH Dealership

    Joined:
    Oct 11, 2001
    Messages:
    7,898
    Likes Received:
    1,224
    Trophy Points:
    113
    Location:
    Aliquippa Pa
    First the oil filter is correct for a 74/75 pickup .On the spring,I would remove,take to spring shop and just get a new main leaf made.
     
  11. holgar

    holgar Farmall Cub

    Joined:
    Mar 6, 2017
    Messages:
    28
    Likes Received:
    5
    Trophy Points:
    3
    Location:
    Seattle, WA
    The spring search continues-

    I'm told this truck is supposed to have 442651C91 (SRI# 55-806). According to the spec sheet: (A) 19", (B) 23", (C) 3", (D) 1 11/16"

    The SRI# 55-810 (IH# 442663C91) is: (A) 19", (B) 23", (C) 4 3/4", (D) 1 11/16"

    Do I stick with the 55-806 with the 3" arch or go with the 55-810 with the 4 3/4" arch? Someone put in a 392 over the stock 304 (more weight?) and I'm not sure the stock tire size but currently I believe it's 285 75/16.
     
    Last edited: Apr 7, 2017
  12. holgar

    holgar Farmall Cub

    Joined:
    Mar 6, 2017
    Messages:
    28
    Likes Received:
    5
    Trophy Points:
    3
    Location:
    Seattle, WA
    Well... turns out someone has already made that choice for me-
    IMG_1628.JPG
    It has to be SRI# 55-816 (IH#442659C91): (A) 19", (B) 23", (C) 4", (D) 2" - it has seven leafs (not 6) and about ~100lbs more capacity.

    Edit: and I found NOS pair! Should be here next week and actually cheaper than having new ones made (including shipping). The place has a lot of NOS IH stuff in stock and at a great price.
     
    Last edited: Apr 7, 2017
  13. BigRigg

    BigRigg Y-Block King

    Joined:
    Mar 12, 2004
    Messages:
    3,294
    Likes Received:
    659
    Trophy Points:
    113
    Location:
    West Fork, AR
    :rockon: who did you get the springs from? Liking your build so far! Love me some d series trucks!
     
  14. patman52

    patman52 Farmall Cub

    Joined:
    Nov 19, 2016
    Messages:
    88
    Likes Received:
    12
    Trophy Points:
    8
    Location:
    eugene oregon
    get it roadworthy first then restore, i think a lot of people lose steam when their project has roots, more fun to work on while you drive unless you have done this 30 times and have buckets of patience
     
  15. holgar

    holgar Farmall Cub

    Joined:
    Mar 6, 2017
    Messages:
    28
    Likes Received:
    5
    Trophy Points:
    3
    Location:
    Seattle, WA
    Thanks BigRigg! The place I purchased the springs packs is here. They used to supply all the municipal vehicles I think (thus they have some stock after the towns moved on from IH)

    patman52- completely agree and the idea. Not attacking anything that doesn't get it on the road first, then I'll worry about the hole in the floorboard...

    On that note, preventing future engine damage and fixing the leaky rubber fuel lines- I dropped the drivers side tank to start the sealing and sender issue diagnoses (I'm going to do one side at a time so if something does happen, truck can still drive). Dropping wasn't too bad, but I did break both bolts trying to remove them from the hangers...

    Once out, a few taps on the senders and voila! IMG_1648.JPG IMG_1650.JPG IMG_1651.JPG
    Float is broken and rattling around the tank, and after my attempts at learning to use my multimeter; either I don't remember or the sender is broken, broken.

    I did a flush with water and muratic acid and this came out...
    IMG_1652.JPG

    And I found this gem. Someone tried fixing the rust in the cab with a Simpson strong tie and deck screws... guess what the screw bit into!
    IMG_1649.JPG
    Hoping the hole is small enough that a little putty while sealing the inside will take care of it.

    That's all for now! It stinks everywhere of old gas... there was about 1g in the tank when I dropped it (almost black).
     
  16. J.J.

    J.J. Lives in an IH Dealership

    Joined:
    Dec 14, 2003
    Messages:
    5,888
    Likes Received:
    3,147
    Trophy Points:
    113
    Location:
    Castalian Springs, TN
    Great job!

    JJ in TN
     
  17. holgar

    holgar Farmall Cub

    Joined:
    Mar 6, 2017
    Messages:
    28
    Likes Received:
    5
    Trophy Points:
    3
    Location:
    Seattle, WA
    As I'm taking off the wheels, shocks, etc to replace the leafs on both fronts- anything I should do at the same time?

    The logical thing I can think of is replace the shocks, but that requires removing them to measure (unless someone knows the Monroe # for a D-series with 7 leaf fronts?).

    I want to change the brake fluid, pads, etc at some point but first want to get the suspension sorted out.
     
  18. Sozzy

    Sozzy Farmall Cub

    Joined:
    Oct 7, 2015
    Messages:
    484
    Likes Received:
    121
    Trophy Points:
    43
    Location:
    Southern Idaho
    Cool truck! You lucked out getting an IH instead of the Chebby. .. their only redeeming quality is they are cheap to work with. ..for good reason.
    You should focus on safety first. .. brakes, fuel lines,etc. Next turn to reliability items like bearings, seals, fix leaks, etc. Good luck and post often.
     
  19. holgar

    holgar Farmall Cub

    Joined:
    Mar 6, 2017
    Messages:
    28
    Likes Received:
    5
    Trophy Points:
    3
    Location:
    Seattle, WA
    The two faced weekend...

    I finally find a place that's open when I'm not at work to get ubolts made and I pick them up Saturday afternoon. Excitement! Finally have all the parts needed to get this truck on the road.

    Jack up the left front of the truck (thankfully I had 6x12 beam scraps to add height to my jack). Robbed the crappy jack from my Nissan to jack up the axle to relieve pressure off the ubolts. After a bent sawzall blade, quickly cut the ubolts off with the grinder. Now to drop the axle a bit further and... shock in the way. Unbolt shock and... brake line fully extended. Ugh- did not want to get into the brakes this weekend. Got just enough length out of the line after turning the wheel left, to free the axle from the leaf. Now just unbolt leaf, insert new leaf, etc and done! NOT.

    The PO (I think a couple ago) decided to add little tack welds to some parts and fully weld others. Like the nut for instance- fully welded (but with so many bubbles it grinded right off). So a lot of carefully cutting between brackets and housings- old leaf is out! Deserves a beer-

    Adding the new leaf in is not easy and apologies for any rambling here. In an attempt to not sever the brake line (or unbolt it as I don't have one of those fancy flare wrenches)- I can't drop the axle any further and the new leaf is more 'peppy' in that it's more curved. I manage to get the back bolted through, but not the front. And the axel is still shifted back about 2" from the incident that broke the leaf in the first place (and I still can't turn right). 8pm- time to cleanup and eat. Did I mention it was a total downpour (Seattle) and I was doing this in the driveway under a tarp over a sawhorse?
    IMG_1679.JPG
    Sunday! After some encouragement from a fellow Binder I cut the brake lines to deal with another day (they were pretty cracked rubber). Drop the axle fully, pop the front bolt in and start to wrestle with the axle. Still not able to shift it forward- then lightbulb moment. Get the other tire off the ground and turn it right thus pulling the left side of the axle forward (there was a lot of geometry studying going on figuring out how a pitman/draglink steering worked). My brother stopped by, he turned the opposite tire (entire front off the ground, steering wheel locked) while I aligned the axle over the center pin! Success!!! Beer time!

    The other side was a bit easier as I already decided the brake lines were going... a little adjustment needed to the front bracket (thank you prybar). A note however... ubolts have an INSANE amount of pressure on them. When cutting one out, it snapped and shot out of the plate, off the wheel well and over my shoulder... wear safety protection! I'm glad I was.

    I'll try and fill in the blanks later, but have very few pictures of the process- it was pouring rain.
    IMG_1680.JPG IMG_1681.JPG Beer cans are catching any brake fluid that drips from the cut lines.

    Now to finding replacement lines (not sure sizes) but want them longer so I dont need to mess with them while replacing shocks, etc.

    Also- for the bolts through the bushings on the leafs... washers? Spring washers? No washers? The PO had a mix of everything... I used all Grade 8, just not sure on the washers required (and need to torque everything properly when I get under there for the brakes)

    Edit: looks like JJ may have already chimed in on the brake line topic here: http://www.binderplanet.com/forums/index.php?threads/the-pucker-factor-74-200-brake-hose.134623/
     
    Last edited: Apr 24, 2017
  20. Sozzy

    Sozzy Farmall Cub

    Joined:
    Oct 7, 2015
    Messages:
    484
    Likes Received:
    121
    Trophy Points:
    43
    Location:
    Southern Idaho
    Sounds like you would have been better off replacing the whole spring pack and u bolts
     

Share This Page