1973 Travelall 1110 Overland/Expedition

Discussion in 'Binder Builds' started by ExpedTeeAll, Mar 9, 2020.


  1. ExpedTeeAll

    ExpedTeeAll Farmall Cub

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    Mountain Boy.jpg This Travelall was christened "Mountain Boy" by a former girlfriend. Girlfriend is gone, "Mountain Boy" moniker remains. This is how the truck looked when I acquired it in winter 2019. It's a very clean example, almost rust free (no, really) and I think will make a great base for my build.

    My intention is to build an overland/expedition vehicle with moderate off-road capabilities but certainly not a rock crawler. I don't want a resto-mod setup, and hope to keep things looking mostly "original" with the exception of external accessories and lift. I also want to keep the 345 engine- if at all possible- but will consider (reluctantly) a future swap of an LS3 that I inherited. I intend to pull a small trailer behind, and hope to have decent pulling power with the EFI addition to the 345, but we will see. I live out of this Travelall and my RV- as in, full time living- so the rent money I save goes into the build since it's literally my home.

    I've listed below details of the truck when I acquired it, plus my build plans. I'll post progress and images in separate posts as I go. If you have suggestions don't hesitate to comment- I'm a Binder rookie on a steep learning curve and open to input.


    Vehicle as I acquired it:
    1973 Travelall 1110 4x4 - 59,xxx miles
    345 CID engine with 2bbl Holley 2210 carb
    727 Torqueflite 3-Speed Auto
    3.73 gears
    2 speed transfer case
    Rear Dana 44 axle (original??) 5 x 5.5 lug
    Rear drum brakes
    Original interior

    Known Modifications by previous owner(s):
    Front axle swap (yet unidentified) 5 3/8" wider than rear (??)
    Front disc brakes with 6 x 5.5 lug
    Front Custom bumper
    33 x 10.5 x 15 BFG A/T tires - cracked and disintegrating
    15 x 7 steel wheels (6 lug front, 5 lug rear) ??
    Auxiliary passenger side fuel tank and manual switch - doesn't work
    Possible suspension mods - seriously sagging
    Midas shocks- completely blown
    Edlebrock fuel pump - failed second day driving
    White spray-over paint - nice work


    MY BUILD PLANS for "Mountain Boy" and STATUS:

    MECHANICAL:

    Hamilton EFI full conversion - PARTS ORDERED, WAITING ON DELIVERY
    Fuel tank selector switch - WAITING ON ABOVE
    Dual rear quarter panel fuel tanks rebuild - IN PROGRESS
    Rear Axel swap to match front
    Front diff gasket
    Power brake conversion
    Power steering conversion - PARTS ORDERED
    Transmission swap with overdrive
    4.10 gear change - depending on towing experience
    Locking diffs (suggestions?)
    Engine rebuild (evaluate after EFI install)

    SUSPENSION, WHEELS, AND TIRES:
    CPT Front GM shackle conversion - COMPLETED
    Skyjacker 2.5" lift springs - COMPLETED
    Bilstein 5125 Shocks - COMPLETED
    BF Goodrich A/T K02 Tires 295/75R16 -HAVE PARTS
    Pro Comp Series 51 Steel Wheels - AS ABOVE
    5 x 5.5 to 6 x 5.5 Adapter to correct lug pattern and rear axle width - HAVE PARTS

    ELECTRICAL:

    Wiring harness replacement - ORDERED
    Heavy duty alternator
    USB dash plug
    Dual batteries
    Ravelco security kill switch - AFTER ECU INSTALL AND NEW WIRING HARNESS

    INTERNALS:

    Weather stripping - HAVE PARTS
    Headliner
    Overhead lighting
    Rear slide-out drawers
    Internal LUND 48" lockbox - COMPLETED

    EXTERNALS:
    Rustproof and under-spray
    Rhino Rack Pioneer Roof Rack - COMPLETED
    Rhino Rack Batwing Awning - COMPLETED
    Hi-Lift jack and roof mounts
    Rhino Rack rooftop spare tire straps
    Kuat NV 2.0 hitch mount bike rack - COMPLETED
    FSR 55" rooftop tent
    Rhino Rack double jerry can roof carrier
    Rhino Rack shovel carrier
    Exterior lighting
    Rear Swing-away spare tire mount
    Small overland trailer
     
    Last edited: Mar 16, 2020
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  2. mongocanfly

    mongocanfly High Wheeler

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    Welcome to binders....WOW..!!...that is a nice one from the pic you showed....
    most likely you have a Chevy axle in the front...either dana44 or Corp 10bolt...a pic of the axle will help identify...
    Since the axles dont match, make darn sure the gear ratios are the same...
    More pics..more pics...
    and please hit the full size button when you load your pics...makes them easier to see..
    And if your gonna eventually add a od trans you'll need to work your gear ratios around that and tire size along with cruise speed...
    You made mention of a possible LS3 in the future...be aware that it can get expensive to wind up with a pass side drop transfercase...unless you can source a 4l80/np241 to go behind it...those came in 91 3/4t burbs..
    You sure wouldnt have any towing problems with a LS3 though...
     
    Last edited: Mar 10, 2020
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  3. ExpedTeeAll

    ExpedTeeAll Farmall Cub

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    Thanks! I changes the image to full size. I had the gears checked by wheel turning method- all seemed to spin the same. Here's the axle shots - and you can see the old front springs and how they were so sagged you can see where the u-bolts were hammering the frame.. I also need to change the rear diff gasket looks like.


    Here's the rear end- I assume Dana 44?:
     

    Attached Files:

    Last edited: Mar 10, 2020
  4. mongocanfly

    mongocanfly High Wheeler

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    Front axle is Corp 10bolt....those front ubolts are way to long...if nothing else just cutem off for now..unless you need the extra length later..
    Rear does appear to be dana44
    When you space those rear tires out be sure to check for tire rub with suspension articulation...may be real close to rubbing without the lift...
     
    Last edited: Mar 10, 2020
  5. winchested

    winchested Y-Block King

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    Yup corporate 10 bolt. So you could source a Chevy dana 44 or a corp 12 bolt to make the rear match. Or get a better front Chevy Dana 44 front and convert to ford rotors and spindles to get the 5x 5.5 pattern.
     
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  6. ExpedTeeAll

    ExpedTeeAll Farmall Cub

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    As I understand, if I change the rear a 10 bolt is easier to find and cheaper than a 12 bolt, is this correct? I plan to tow up to about 6500 lbs. Is there any advantage to 12 bolt for towing? Do I need a truck specific axle when looking or is there no difference? I think they swapped the front to get the disk brakes ...I think, and I like the wider stance.
     
  7. mongocanfly

    mongocanfly High Wheeler

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    Go with a 12bolt....they're still available..if you get lucky you might find one with a locker already in it..
    A rear axle is gonna be a couple inches narrower than a front anyway..but measure your front axle from wms to wms..thatl give you an idea ...but I'd look for a axle from a square body Chevy truck..
     
  8. winchested

    winchested Y-Block King

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    10 bolts are the junk of the Chevy world from what I've been told to steer clear of them. You want a reliable overland rig then put the money into it now don't cheap out.
     
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  9. java230

    java230 Farmall Cub

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    That looks clean!
     
  10. Chris Cooper

    Chris Cooper Binder Driver

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    That is a really nice truck. Can’t wait to see how this unfolds.


    Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
     
  11. MrKenmore

    MrKenmore Y-Block King

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    Why not find a 3/4 ton GM and get the 14 bolt corporate and a 10 bolt up front? You will likely need to weld up spring perches and shock mounts but it a robust way to go.
     
  12. 2Dog-log

    2Dog-log Farmall Cub

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    Awesome! I saw that for sale on ebay a while back. Loved it. Post lots of pictures of your progress!
     
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  13. Darrel

    Darrel Dreams of Cub Cadets

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    Nice find that's a sharp truck.
    GM truck 10 bolt front axles are almost identical in strength to vintage Dana 44's. Did you check that the axle ratios match? 3.73s are a great ratio for 33s, but as heavy are you'll be it'll struggle going up I-70. EFI won't give you any more power than a correctly tuned carb.
    Wheel adapters are prone to failure so make sure you're meticulous with the installation and re-torque regularly.
    Do you already have your collector plates or are you outside the emissions testing area?
     
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  14. ExpedTeeAll

    ExpedTeeAll Farmall Cub

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    I'm outside the emissions testing area. I hope the EFI does better than the failing 2210 carb I have now, but I'm primarily making the change because I tend to travel across big swings in elevation- sea level to 12,000ft in a few days is not uncommon for me. I did check the ratios- at least by turning all 4 wheels on a lift. Do you think I'll struggle up I70 (good litmus test road, btw) without a trailer?
     
  15. ExpedTeeAll

    ExpedTeeAll Farmall Cub

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    DUEL TANK REBUILD

    Got the rear fuel tanks out. They both look good internally- the stock is getting boiled now and I ordered a new sending unit. I flushed the aux (aluminum) tank- and trying to figure out if I need to re-plumb the 1/4 return connection on top for 5/16- or whether 1/4 is good enough for EFI return line. Everything else with be 3/8 lines. I've decided to simply go with the 6-way switch and continue with the dual tank setup, so I'll have to find a universal sending unit and gauge the Aux side separately. Here's what they looked like:

    Stock side:

    20200311_152232.jpg

    And the auxiliary side:

    20200311_152244.jpg


    Removed both tanks and did as much as possible to remove the accumulated rust and dirt (used Rust-oleum rust remover gel- worked nicely). I'm surprised at how little rust was in there after clean-up ...the vast majority was light surface rust. I read on BP that rust inside the rear quarter panels are typically a weak spot for Travelalls.

    Before cleanup:

    20200312_132308.jpg

    After clean up:

    20200315_160822.jpg


    Aux side before:

    20200312_132125.jpg

    After:

    20200315_160816.jpg


    Both tanks before boil/flush:

    20200312_132340.jpg

    Next is a coat of primer plus a layer of undercoating inside the quarter panels for increased rust protection.

    Just finished the undercoat. Now waiting on the new sending units:

    20200316_173114.jpg

    20200316_173125.jpg
     
    Last edited: Mar 16, 2020
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  16. Darrel

    Darrel Dreams of Cub Cadets

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    It'll struggle some. At 11000 ft a 345 only puts out 140bhp and Travelalls weigh over 5000 lbs before cargo, fuel, passengers. With 33s you can drop it into 2nd on the hwy if needed. Get a good trans cooler.

    Next time you pull apart the 10 bolt check your axle shaft size. Or check the tube for the date code stamp. Earlier models used 28 spline instead of 30 spline.
     
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  17. RinTX

    RinTX High Wheeler

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    Those wells are surprising. That is amazingly clean and rust free.
     
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  18. Big Ed

    Big Ed High Wheeler

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    Can you show how they did the auxiliary tank filler on the outside?
     
  19. Big Ed

    Big Ed High Wheeler

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    Passenger side, where the spare tire went.
     
  20. Big Ed

    Big Ed High Wheeler

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    You don’t have this tank?

    E82F0345-1A01-4FA7-91AE-D599AFEDE0B0.jpeg
     

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