1973 Travelall 1010 - Family Cruiser Build.

Discussion in 'Binder Builds' started by java230, Jul 22, 2019.


  1. MrKenmore

    MrKenmore High Wheeler

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    I really don't think you need to do a full rewire. Especially if the wiring isn't all hacked up. I did look at the wiring diagram for 1973 briefly. Not as clear as 1975 in the service manual that's for sure!!! I'll give it a look this weekend to see if I can offer some easy advice. I will be starting this phase on my Travelall shortly.
     
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  2. java230

    java230 Farmall Cub

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    It definitely seems all original, a few stiff and or crusty wires (blue main power for the most part). No real hacking. The trailer wiring was not the best (vampire taps...) but its all gone now.

    And yes the 72-73 section is not nearly as good as the 75....
     
  3. java230

    java230 Farmall Cub

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    Found a bit more cancer..... Holes under the window must have been leaking for awhile. Drivers A pillar.

    IMG_20190802_154410_236.jpg
     
  4. Caddad65

    Caddad65 Farmall Cub

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  5. java230

    java230 Farmall Cub

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    Shocks are in
    [​IMG]

    Added some real bolts to the inner fenders.
    [​IMG]

    Started to break the calipers down for cleaning. Need top rebuild and get them mounted so I can make brake lines.
    [​IMG]
     
  6. java230

    java230 Farmall Cub

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    Calipers are cleaned up

    [​IMG]



    Battery box got re-welded and a coat of POR. Someone had cut the corner and beat one side flat to fit a larger battery.

    [​IMG]



    I stared at brake lines for awhile.....

    Anyone recognize this alternator? LST says its the 61 amp, but the pictures in the manual look a little different.... Im trying to figure out hook up, I think the terminal with the wire wqould be Bat+, but not sure on the other two terminals as they look different than all the options in the manual. It appears that
    one has BR scratched into it....

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Aug 5, 2019
  7. MrKenmore

    MrKenmore High Wheeler

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    Now you're getting into my wheelhouse.....Looks like a 10SI alternator. You should have two spade terminals on the side. The below drawing is a basic set up which is what I am now underway with.
    10SI Wiring.jpg
    In lieu of the idiot light, I am installing an inline resistor right off the alternator. The junction point is my 3/8" 12 volt positive stud.

    But this is a departure from the stock wiring which flows in and out of the wires at the firewall. I forgot to look at your wiring diagram. I'll look tonight. You should be able to do something similar to me and backfeed the Travelall via the #2 circuit. Remember the battery feed meets up on the starter in stock form. So big battery positive and circuit #14 (with a fusible link) and alternator sense wire. You'd need to do some work there as well.
     
  8. java230

    java230 Farmall Cub

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    OK cool! The picture in the manual just looks a bit different in the cooling openings. It "should" be the 10si per the factory build sheet.

    There are two terminals, you can just see the writing scratched into the back at the top of the pic, I just dont know which is which. One appears to be labeled "BR". What size resistor is needed? Or can the idiot light stay if I am ditching the ammeter?

    As to the wiring, this was my plan from the previous page. I'd love your input!

    Starting:
    Starter solenoid
    Batt+ to solenoid
    Solenoid to starter B (with jumper to S)
    Circuit 17 (starter control) to solenoid.

    Ditching Ammeter:
    4ga from alt B to batt +
    circuit 2 to ammeter (this powers everything inside AFAIK) Pull off gauge, leave connected to other wires there (to keep power to fuse panel dash etc).
    Disconnect circuit 14 (runs from ammeter back to BHC) leave it off.
    Disconnect 14 from starter to BHC, remove.
     
  9. MrKenmore

    MrKenmore High Wheeler

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    There is no idiot light now in the IH vehicles. That's a typical GM wiring schematic. IH used a thin from the BHC to the alternator to provide the necessary resistance (between 10 and 50 ohms). I'll take a pic of the adapter I have at home which I plan on using. As far as which wire goes where for the two spade terminals, follow the cartoon I posted. Looking at the back with the stud at the top (just like your picture), #1 (field - idiot light) is on the left and #2 (voltage sensing) is on the right.

    Your plan sounds good. Pretty much the same as I am doing right now. I'm using #2 welding cable for all the big 12V+ stuff (starter, remote solenoid, feed for main distribution point. Alternator feed is #6 wire. Make sure you fuse the alternator to bat+. Are you making the batter terminal your 12V+ "hub"? The feed for the vehicle should all convene on your main hub. Fuse the 10 guage wire at 30 amps. I used MIDI fuses. Very convenient and offer ratings 30 amp and up. here's the inline fuse holder. (https://www.waytekwire.com/item/46312/Littelfuse-Inline-MIDI-Fuse-Holder-04980921GXM5/)
    200A_MIDI_InLine_FuseHolder_46312_f.png
     
    Last edited: Aug 5, 2019
  10. java230

    java230 Farmall Cub

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    OK so as long as I use the OE wiring from the ign to alt I should be good to go then. Thanks for the diagram!

    I was planning to run 4ga from alt to batt and starter to solenoid. Does it need to be 6ga from the alt to batt? I don't see any reason bigger isn't better?

    Debating on there to make the "hub". Either hot post of the starter solenoid or the batt+.
     
  11. MrKenmore

    MrKenmore High Wheeler

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    Yes, if you stick with your stock wiring from the BHC to the alternator for the field wire, you should be good. It will be quite thin and solid (not multi stranded).

    As far the junction point, with the remote solenoid, you run out of stud space real quick. Not ideal for a distribution hub. Also consider the + post of the battery will get crowded with multiple connections make battery removal / replacement a little more time consuming.
     
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  12. java230

    java230 Farmall Cub

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    Good to know on the wire, that should make identifying it easier!

    Yep junctions at either are a trade off. But hopefully there wont be too many.
     
  13. MrKenmore

    MrKenmore High Wheeler

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    What side is your battery on? Mine is on the passenger making things real convenient.
     
  14. java230

    java230 Farmall Cub

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    Same, Passenger side. Short wire runs! Although I bought 15 feet of wire.....
     
  15. java230

    java230 Farmall Cub

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    Hopefully this is the answer to dropped TRE!
    [​IMG]
     
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  16. java230

    java230 Farmall Cub

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    Brake lines are done! Long hard lines on the firewall are a huge pain with the engine in! Made tabs to hold the frame side of the flex lines, I think I got the routing pretty good.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]



    New drag link installed. Just barely clears!! Sweet.

    [​IMG]
     
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  17. java230

    java230 Farmall Cub

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    Anyone know if a 17x8 4" BS wheel will clear on these?
     
  18. Kelly R Gillespie

    Kelly R Gillespie Farmall Cub

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    Looking good. I have 75 that was someone else's project. Not as rust free as yours for sure. I will be following your build for sure.
     
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  19. Kelly R Gillespie

    Kelly R Gillespie Farmall Cub

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    Looking good. I have 75 that was someone else's project. Not as rust free as yours for sure. I will be following your build for sure.
     
  20. java230

    java230 Farmall Cub

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    Open to body filler recommendations.... Whats the best these days? Its been forever.... Rage Gold was what I used last time IIRC. I grabbed some duraglass for the first coat on the welded patches.

    Got the kiddo out to the garage to help pump brakes. Got fresh fluid in the master (after putting it in and sucking it back out since it instantly looks nasty...) and pumped the line going to the rear end. Flushed the old crap out, got one side bled, and promptly ran out of fluid.... I thought I had another can on the shelf.... Nope. I did find a few leaks, tightened those up, hopefully thats it. I have one suspect flare... I couldn't see what I was doing and may have over flared it.



    And in another IH is hard to find parts for segment..... Exhaust flanges aren't quite right.... Am I crazy to try to ream the holes to try to get it to match the OE flanges? There wont be much material left next to the pipe when done. The flanges are good and thick though? They are doughnut gasketed.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]



    Assembled the battery box.

    [​IMG]

    Dropped a battery in and looked at starter solenoid locations. This should work, using existing holes, otherwise I could probably sneak it in behind the battery.

    [​IMG]



    And RockAuto's parts system didnt get this one right... One of these is not like the other! Luckily I could still just read the part number on the old one.

    [​IMG]

    Got the intermediate pipe in, tried the ClampTite. Its neat, looks cool, but its kinda a pain to use, and definitely needs a bit of space around it. May not work for the lowers etc.

    [​IMG]

    And finally, made a little aluminim tab to hold the broken fan shround.

    [​IMG]
     

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