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Discussion in 'Binder Builds' started by supercrouton, Dec 10, 2018.
Any updates on the 5.3 swap??? Loving the build
Thanks! I'm currently getting things together to get the engine prepped: ordering headers, A/C compressor relocate brackets, new pulley bearings, etc. so I don't have to do all that stuff leaning over into an engine bay. The other reason is that the I6 runs so good I've been enjoying driving it as is while buttoning down a few other minor issues.
Speaking of details, I am super picky about headlight performance. This truck has had more than a few setups since I've had it and would like to pass on what I've found.
Back in the day the Hella H4 housings were all that and a bag of chips, so sprung for a new pair and put some H4 Akarui LED bulbs (based on 3rd party reviews).
Big mistake because those bulbs have no low-beam shield so they blind oncoming traffic, plus the fluting on the Hellas diffuse the light until there is not enough forward projection of light.
Then I tried a high powered halogen bulb in the Hellas, Good pattern and cut-off, just way too much current draw and those bulbs also have a relatively short life and cost too much for what they are.
Next was complete 7" Cree LED headlight assemblies. My friend with a J**p has these and said they were good...
Good pattern but WAY too weak for my tastes, not nearly enough projection down the road. The plastic lenses scratched easily and had moisture inside after only one washing. Back to Amazon they went. Don't waste your money on these losers.
Next was back to a proven combination: VisionX 7" round housings (DOT approved) and Hakari LEDs. The housings are all glass, not plastic, so no scratches or leaks, but they are breakable which is a compromise I am comfortable with. I have these on my '71 C10 with some H4 Hakari LED bulbs and they are GREAT, but are costly. That is why I tried the other options in the first place.
These Hikari bulbs are updated from the last pair I bought for my C10, and it shows. I know.... "Eyes of Megatron" is corny. But this combination ended up being far superior to ANY headlamp performance I've ever seen, including on modern vehicles. The light goes WELL out in front of the truck and is concentrated in my lane, at least to 120' but with good peripheral lighting. And since this combo was carefully aimed and has a crisp cutoff on low-beam (due partially to the low-beam shield on the bulb), I have yet to be flashed by any oncoming motorists. High beams are also great, about what you'd expect from any high-end modern vehicle. Hopefully this info will help those who want excellent/legal forward lighting.
Watch the bleepin jeep guys, they did a good comparison video. Turn out standard old Halogen sealed beams run off a relay harness getting full battery power is amazing. And doesn't blind on coming traffic. Lumen output was far superior to LED.
those are neat crouton...ive also seen the 7in jeep light converted with phillips leds...https://www.ebay.com/itm/2XH4-PHILIPS-CSP-LED-Headlight-Bulbs-Replacement-Kit-High-Low-Beam-8000LM-50W65K/131765456380?epid=5008531393&hash=item1eadd54dfc:g:2NEAAOSwJa1Zs6zc
also a good setup
Haha! I should have added “your results may vary”. This is by no means an exhaustive comparison, but is based on only the items I have tested, and not very scientifically at that. However for over 20 years I worked in the custom mobile electronics world (hence the modded/upgraded fuse panel early on) and have seen a LOT when it comes to lighting. I typically put relays on every circuit over 10 amps, but these LED bulbs use less amperage than most other lights and have regulated power supplies, so relays are not necessary even when there is a little voltage drop.
Supercrouton, thanks for the info - we've been tinking about good headlights - I much prefer a great set of headlights over headlights + driving lights. I have seen some jeeps with these neat headlights with a ring of amber LED for a turn signal integrated. I wonder how those would be? You approach seems the simplest. B
I too was hoping those pre made LED lights would be good since they are quick and easy and only half the cost. But they just didn't do it for me. Before I got the headlights sorted out, I installed a 4-row LED light bar in the space below the winch. It is wired to a relay and a switch off the high beam circuit. so if the switch is on, the light bar goes on and off with high beams, or I can switch it off altogether for on-road.
This week time was limited but I did manage to get a couple hoist points made for the outgoing 258/TF727 from 3/16 steel. Since I work on this stuff alone, I tend to go a little overkill on hardware like this. When I do go to pull this lump, it will be a matter of pulling the hood, grill, and radiator, then cutting all the electrical, plumbing, and undoing mounts and u-joints, and chain it to a fork lift, instead of trying to do all that AND rig hoist points in the heat of the moment.
So if anybody want a good 258/TF727 hear in the next few months, hit me up. I will sell it for the cost of the DUI dizzy, and Live Wire plug wires. $600. It has a fresh and well adjusted carb, and finely adjusted electric choke so it starts and runs great and has good power. It DOES NOT leak all over the garage floor. The trans drops a dime size drip every night, but that's it. I also upgraded the (plastic) sorry excuse for a valve cover with a proper alloy one. The engine does burn about a quart of oil every 750-1000 miles (I'm not 100% sure on the miles, since I only drive this truck occasionally). At startup, when hot, it does puff a little smoke out the exhaust, so I suspect it needs valve seals.
I've been in the process of accumulating parts to prep the LS engine, and had some time to install some of them yesterday. First on the list was a Sanden AC compressor, and a compressor re-locator bracket set. I know the compressor could live in the spot it came in, but it will be much more serviceable up high and will also buy some much needed room in the passenger side motor-mount/header area. While I was in there, I installed a new AC Delco water pump and thermostat. The factory idler pulley bearing was also beat, so I pressed in a new bearing ($15) instead of buying a whole idler ($60). The throttle body is off to install a fresh throttle position sensor.
While looking over the soon to be replaced stock exhaust manifolds, I noticed 3 broken bolts. Since the engine was strapped to the pallet BY the exhaust manifolds, I had to whip up a couple quick brackets to go from the (Anything Scout) motor mounts to bolt to the pallet to keep the the whole deal from toppling. Only one of the bolts was broken off flush but an ease-out did the trick with no drama. New Stage-8 Manifold bolts are on the way so I don't have to deal with any more broken bolts.
Next will be pulling the wiring harness and intake manifold, installing new knock sensors and bolting up the hoist plate... Basically I am replacing all the things that are either hard to get to, are wear items, or are known to fail on these swaps.
For anyone else doing an LS swap, go ahead and replace the knock sensors while the engine is out. Both LS engines I swapped have had bad ones. There is even a TSB on them; Remove the rear "dam" between the intake manifold and valley pan, then lay down a "U" shaped bead of RTV in front of each KN well to help direct water around the recesses where the KN's are located. Here are mine. The rear one was under a bunch of wet muck. I am thankful the top didn't break off or separate from the body of the sensor.
The valley pan had a bunch of dirt caked up on it, so I cleaned all that up and bolted on the hoist plate. Then I removed the valve covers and cleaned them with a mild acid to get off the past 15 years of cooked on grime...
The Hooker cast headers/manifolds are finally on with Stage-8 locking hardware along with new Delco Iridium plugs and wires. I used these manifolds since they have been so trouble free on my C10. For anyone else who decides to use them; use high-temp RTV on both side of the down-pipe gaskets or they will fail.
Next, the rebuilt/modded NP241 went on with the AS shifter brackets. For whatever reason, these swap engines haven't come with transmission fill tubes/dipsticks. Weird huh? Some chop shop somewhere must have a huge pile of them. Anyhow, If you get one to fit a 700R4 you'll be pretty close. I modified mine to fit a little closer to the top and back of the engine by modifying and relocating the mount bracket for the tube. No biggie though.
Small update, more engine prep. The intake manifold was dirty and had carbon and oily film around the injectors, so I scrubbed it up and got it ready to bolt back on when the time comes. I forgot to get a pic of the bottom of the manifold....oh well.
I drilled and tapped the stock block plate to accept a 1/8 NPT oil pressure gauge sender. and drilled out the stock metric hole on the passenger head to 1/4 NPT then installed a 1/4-1/8 bushing for a 1/8 NPT temp sender. Both are plugged until the senders are installed.
Then I cut and tapped some .5" OD, .3" ID DOM tubing for the 3/8" hiem joints for the TC shift linkage. I'm not 100% on the final length, however at 11" center-to-center, this lands both levers parallel to each other at the centers of their effective travel.
Besides the two sensors on the back of the engine, that's it for this stage. It's time to pull the I6 and start prepping the truck for the swap.
Are you running an EVAP setup? I usually toss the EVAP valve and drill and tap the plastic intake for a plug. Why did you pick the hooker headers? Seems expensive way to go.
No evap system. That valve is closed at rest, so I just leave it in place. The headers were about $300, which is not bad in the world of headers.
Thanks! I'm starting to get excited to see this thing come together.
Nice attention to detail. Excited to see the build continue!
The demo phase has started. It helps tremendously to have the space and use of a forklift. Both made the pulling of the old I6 relatively easy.
Next will be stripping the engine bay and cutting out the old motor and crossmember mounts. Only two of the bolts were stubborn, but none stripped. Overall, everything I've uncovered up there looks solid with only minor surface rust behind the head lights down in the channels. I figure it might be smart to drill some drain holes there. My '50 L110 had a similar (stupid) design, both sides rusted through in those areas.
I figured out how to get the Scout onto the drive on lift without a working engine or anyone to help push. Since I had access to this lift I figured I'd cut the trans cross member mounts standing rather than lying on my back.
Then in went the AS weld-on motor mounts then the LS engine so I could weld on the new trans cross member mounts.
Of course I forgot to get pictures of the mounts but I will get some on the next trip to post. With the drivetrain in it's final position, it was time to mod the drive shafts to the NP241 transfer case. The way I figured this was to measure the yokes center-to-center of the bearing cups with the original drivetrain, then compare that to the new drivetrain. The rear shaft had to be shortened 5-1/8”, the front extended 2-1/8”. On the rear I turned an interference-fit slug from some thick wall DOM to be sure both halves were concentric, and well supported. Below is the telescoping side with the slug installed...
Below is after TIG welding the rear DS back together. I tacked the tubing in 4 places while it was chucked in the lathe to be sure it wouldn't pull during tacking, then finish welded it 1/8th at a time.
On the front I turned an extension with a stub on one side and a socket on the other, then made two passes of TIG. I didn't finish cleaning the yokes for painting, since I ran out of time, but I did want to paint the shafts on the lathe since it turns out nicer that way.
Anyhow, If anybody needs a good running, not leaking complete 258 engine/trans/transfer case, let me know. I'm selling it for $100 not including the DUI dizzy, or $550 with it. It's already palletized.
Driveshafts are in and fit like they should. Here are a couple pics of them and the cross member. You can also see the extender I made for the parking brake cable. It is .3" ID .5" OD DOM threaded 3/8-24 on both ends so the cut factory threaded rod could thread into both ends. Easy fix. Of course I lost the retaining clip for the cable, but have new ones on the way. I'm working on getting the TC vent and the trans vent T'd together and run up high in the engine bay to keep water out if I end up getting into the deep stuff. At some point it looks like a bash plate is getting made for the TC drop, but it's going to be a minute for that. Next is exhaust.
Any issues with the parking brake cable hitting the back of the tcase when the brake is appl9ed and the line is tight? I seemed like there is too much slack in mine and it hits. I may need to get a new cable tho.