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Discussion in 'Binder Builds' started by supercrouton, Dec 10, 2018.
Any updates on the 5.3 swap??? Loving the build
Thanks! I'm currently getting things together to get the engine prepped: ordering headers, A/C compressor relocate brackets, new pulley bearings, etc. so I don't have to do all that stuff leaning over into an engine bay. The other reason is that the I6 runs so good I've been enjoying driving it as is while buttoning down a few other minor issues.
Speaking of details, I am super picky about headlight performance. This truck has had more than a few setups since I've had it and would like to pass on what I've found.
Back in the day the Hella H4 housings were all that and a bag of chips, so sprung for a new pair and put some H4 Akarui LED bulbs (based on 3rd party reviews).
Big mistake because those bulbs have no low-beam shield so they blind oncoming traffic, plus the fluting on the Hellas diffuse the light until there is not enough forward projection of light.
Then I tried a high powered halogen bulb in the Hellas, Good pattern and cut-off, just way too much current draw and those bulbs also have a relatively short life and cost too much for what they are.
Next was complete 7" Cree LED headlight assemblies. My friend with a J**p has these and said they were good...
Good pattern but WAY too weak for my tastes, not nearly enough projection down the road. The plastic lenses scratched easily and had moisture inside after only one washing. Back to Amazon they went. Don't waste your money on these losers.
Next was back to a proven combination: VisionX 7" round housings (DOT approved) and Hakari LEDs. The housings are all glass, not plastic, so no scratches or leaks, but they are breakable which is a compromise I am comfortable with. I have these on my '71 C10 with some H4 Hakari LED bulbs and they are GREAT, but are costly. That is why I tried the other options in the first place.
These Hikari bulbs are updated from the last pair I bought for my C10, and it shows. I know.... "Eyes of Megatron" is corny. But this combination ended up being far superior to ANY headlamp performance I've ever seen, including on modern vehicles. The light goes WELL out in front of the truck and is concentrated in my lane, at least to 120' but with good peripheral lighting. And since this combo was carefully aimed and has a crisp cutoff on low-beam (due partially to the low-beam shield on the bulb), I have yet to be flashed by any oncoming motorists. High beams are also great, about what you'd expect from any high-end modern vehicle. Hopefully this info will help those who want excellent/legal forward lighting.
Watch the bleepin jeep guys, they did a good comparison video. Turn out standard old Halogen sealed beams run off a relay harness getting full battery power is amazing. And doesn't blind on coming traffic. Lumen output was far superior to LED.
those are neat crouton...ive also seen the 7in jeep light converted with phillips leds...https://www.ebay.com/itm/2XH4-PHILIPS-CSP-LED-Headlight-Bulbs-Replacement-Kit-High-Low-Beam-8000LM-50W65K/131765456380?epid=5008531393&hash=item1eadd54dfc:g:2NEAAOSwJa1Zs6zc
also a good setup
Haha! I should have added “your results may vary”. This is by no means an exhaustive comparison, but is based on only the items I have tested, and not very scientifically at that. However for over 20 years I worked in the custom mobile electronics world (hence the modded/upgraded fuse panel early on) and have seen a LOT when it comes to lighting. I typically put relays on every circuit over 10 amps, but these LED bulbs use less amperage than most other lights and have regulated power supplies, so relays are not necessary even when there is a little voltage drop.
Supercrouton, thanks for the info - we've been tinking about good headlights - I much prefer a great set of headlights over headlights + driving lights. I have seen some jeeps with these neat headlights with a ring of amber LED for a turn signal integrated. I wonder how those would be? You approach seems the simplest. B
I too was hoping those pre made LED lights would be good since they are quick and easy and only half the cost. But they just didn't do it for me. Before I got the headlights sorted out, I installed a 4-row LED light bar in the space below the winch. It is wired to a relay and a switch off the high beam circuit. so if the switch is on, the light bar goes on and off with high beams, or I can switch it off altogether for on-road.
This week time was limited but I did manage to get a couple hoist points made for the outgoing 258/TF727 from 3/16 steel. Since I work on this stuff alone, I tend to go a little overkill on hardware like this. When I do go to pull this lump, it will be a matter of pulling the hood, grill, and radiator, then cutting all the electrical, plumbing, and undoing mounts and u-joints, and chain it to a fork lift, instead of trying to do all that AND rig hoist points in the heat of the moment.
So if anybody want a good 258/TF727 hear in the next few months, hit me up. I will sell it for the cost of the DUI dizzy, and Live Wire plug wires. $600. It has a fresh and well adjusted carb, and finely adjusted electric choke so it starts and runs great and has good power. It DOES NOT leak all over the garage floor. The trans drops a dime size drip every night, but that's it. I also upgraded the (plastic) sorry excuse for a valve cover with a proper alloy one. The engine does burn about a quart of oil every 750-1000 miles (I'm not 100% sure on the miles, since I only drive this truck occasionally). At startup, when hot, it does puff a little smoke out the exhaust, so I suspect it needs valve seals.