1973 Scout 2 Restore

Have you checked the Caster on the front axle? Now is the time to do it if you haven't already. I also have a '73 S2 and the Cut-and-Turn was the single best improvement I have done to date. As built, it had -1.5* caster: terrifying! It transformed the truck's handling from suicidal to civilized and relaxed. And YES you have a super solid S2. The money you spent up front for the truck will more than pay for itself when you DON'T have to repair the floor pans, bed floor, inner and outer quarters, etc. I am more than a little jealous of the work you won't be doing on sheet metal

 

I asked the local Scout guru about this and he said I’m not lifting it enough to warrant that. Should I get a second opinion?

 

Well it's the difference between driving a truck that feels stock and less civilized than a modern vehicle. It's a pretty dang easy job and one that is more than worth the time and the effort especially when you've already got the whole thing apart.

Really what's another couple days worth of work in the grand scheme for a way better steering and self centering truck?

 

Your guy isn’t wrong....if he were referring to lifting a j**p or a f**d or any other vehicle that can from the factory with normal caster. But these S2s often came with no caster or even negative caster. Just for perspective, check the caster specs on any other car. You’ll find that ALL vehicles that handle properly, low to the ground or lifted, have more than a few degrees of positive camber. Positive camber transfers some of the weight of the vehicle + forward momentum into steering that self-centers, and makes for a vehicle that is directionally stable, has the tendency to go straight. Without SOME positive caster, your truck will dart off-center at every bump and dip. You will have to constantly and firmly correct the direction of your front wheels. My pre CAT S2 was white knuckle driving at anything over 30mph and was downright terrifying at road speeds. But don’t take my word for it. Search this forum and google for more details.

 

I guess I just don’t know how to do it. Doesn’t it involve cutting off the yokes?

How can I make sure the yokes are set exactly right after welding them back on?

I can do a lot of things but when it comes to something like this I’m at a loss.

 

A lot of guys try to fix bad caster with steering stabilizers. they do help but the correct thing to do is cut and turn. I havent cut and turned mine yet but I probably will or run 4 steering stabilizers

 

Here is a link that can walk you through the process. And I have some pics of my CAT on my build thread too. http://d44tech.com/CutandTurn_Main.html

The only thing I recommend doing different is, instead of using the machined flat on the knuckle (which I did to within .05 degree), next time I will use a couple cones with some 1/4” round stock through them to put my level gauge on. The reason is, my knuckles ended up being 1.5* off and the cone idea would have measured the actual ball joint geometry. An eccentric 1.5* upper ball joint bushing fixed the issue, but it could have been perfect from the start if I had trusted my instincts. Oh well. Live and learn.

 

Really coming along nicely. It's funny when you do body work yourself, you FULLY understand why a shop charges what they do for a proper paint job! It's a lot of hours.

Cut and turn sounds like a solid plan. I don't remember if you recapped your lift and tire plans. I am bone stock 29 inch tires 2WD and was able to use caster shims with no front driveshaft implications!!!!

 

decision final...starting cut and turn on Monday.

Tires and wheels..American Racing Baja. 33x12.5x15 BFG All Terrains is what it is right now. I might change my mind as much as the weather on this one.

Upholstery..

 

Driving my newly purchased 78 scout 2 home with it's caster problem was frightening.

 

SAME. The test drive on my '73 was the most terrified I have EVER been behind the wheel of ANY vehicle.... and I didn't get over 35 mph. I have often been 175+ mph on public roads (when I was younger+dumber) and have totaled more cars than I care to admit, yet my Scout II test drive was STILL the scariest time I've ever spent behind the wheel. Sorry for highjacking your thread.

 

Before you tear straight into a cut and turn, you'll want to put your rig on an alignment table to see where your caster is now, so you'll know how many degree more to add to the knuckles. I went with 6* because that's what vehicles similar in size/wheelbase/track came with from the factory. You may get lucky...I have read that some S2s came with enough caster to drive decently. You already have a one-in-a-million rust-free S2, You may have won the lottery in caster too :-D Side note: these trucks often have positive camber too. If you do end up doing a cat, this can be fixed at the same time.

 

Only 1980 front axles were made with positive caster at 2 deg.

All other scout axles were 0 deg. +/- 1 deg.

 

So...put the bearings and wheels back on it check the alignment?

Can I guy check this in the condition it is in right now

 

I would imagine you could get your caster pretty darn close without ball joints installed. The caster would be a different story though. However, you could go into it with a pair of eccentric top bushings and fine tune everything on the table after everything else is done. I would be confident with that plan.

 

Would a 78' Scout II with 80' Scout II axles with 2 degrees of castor have enough castor for a 4" triangle lift with 33" tires?

 

I have no idea. I would start a new post. I’m sure you will have answers.

 

Got the fuel tank back in before I take a week break to take the family on a vacation. Does anyone know what the purpose of what I circled is for??

 

That's for you EVAP emmisions lines if you're so equipped, if not don't use them.

But put nylon caps on them not those cheap ass garbage rubber caps.

 

Theoretically (I say that as I do not know who built that tank), the connections are plumbed to small diameter pipes within the tank which go to the front corners of the tank. So if you're parked on a hill, the vapor system can still work.