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Discussion in 'Binder Builds' started by chopperroxie, Apr 7, 2015.
Is this a 304? What pertronix kit did you use
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Did you determine where the leakage is coming from? Hate to be the bearer of bad news, but 40% is normally considered way outside of acceptable.
Hey Grant, I used the Pertronix 1481 kit. I have the Holley points distributor and it fit well. We'll see when I get to start it up again in a little while.
Darrel, After further research, yes, you are right about that. I just tested a few cylinders so I'm going to go back and test all. It was in the green on the tester so since I've never done this before I assumed it was good. I did hear hissing out the intake but didn't go much further into deternining where else it was coming from.
Thanks for the heads up. Maybe this engine is not as healthy as I once though.
Ok, so I decided to ignore my engine's bad leakage numbers and press on. It is definately not in the budget for an engine rebuild so I'm going to live with it for now. It ran and drove decent enough when I got it so I will limp it till next winter.
I ordered some new wheels and tires so I needed to check on the condition of the rear axle and start rebuilding the DANA 44 front axle I got from a fellow Scout owner last year. It turned out to be pretty decent and so I started to take it apart to replace the bearings and such. I thought I had gotten lucky when I found one with the same axle ratio as my rear one. Didn't think I was going to have to rebuild either one of them. How wrong I was...
I got my girlfriend Emily to finish off the valve cover script for me, since she has the patience and attention to detail that I lack. I think this is going to look killer on the repainted engine...even if it ends up running like a dog...
I also stripped the lift gate down and sanded it ready for paint. I need to get a t-handle and the mechanism thingy eventually.
And then I decided to crack open the rear differential to check out the condition of the gears... Lovely huh?
It looks like it spent some time underwater, judging by the mud and sludge that came out... and there are 2 missing ring gear bolts and 1 that is half way out. I know there's an interesting story associated with this, just not sure I want to hear it.
Obviously I plan on gutting it and buying all new bearings, races, carrier and gears. Maybe even axles as well.
So I was counting up the number of things on this Scout that I haven't had to replace and/or rebuild, or need to...
The frame, windshield...grille. I think that might be it. Seriously. I would have done better by buying those and building another Scout around them.
I've spent the month of February getting my differentials and suspension straightened out. I rebuilt the rear diff with a new gear ratio of 3.73 and a new trak-lok case. I cleaned the case out and set up the new ring and pinion and put the axles in. I rebuilt the rear brakes with new drums and shoes.
I finished up work on the lift gate. I stripped it down and painted it and installed a new t-handle and did a gas strut kit conversion. Highly recommended.
I also continued rebuilding the front dana 44 diff that I got last year. I'm planning on a Spring Over Axle conversion so I stripped the housing down and cut off the steering knuckle and spring perches. I also ordered a reverse shackle kit as well. This should keep me busy until spring.
I decided to go ahead do it right while everything was apart. The previous owner used long shackles to lift it 4 inches. I decided to ahead and do a Spring over axle, reverse shackle, high steer conversion and I'll keep the stock springs. I also ordered a 175 amp MIG to handle all the welding i'm going to need to do.
Oh and I got new wheels and tires:
I went with Pro-comp rock crawler Series 51. 15 x 8's with a 33" x 10.5" tire. Looking forward to getting my suspension setup and this thing back on the ground.
Took advantage of a few snowy days and a recently installed garage heater to get some work done on the Scout. The Reverse Shackle kit and my new Eastwood MIG 175 welder arrived so it was time to burn some metal getting it installed.
I first tacked the front fangs to the frame with the support bar.
Then I used a pilot drill bit and a hole saw to drill the hole the rear leaf sprint mount. This is the tube slid inside ready to tack.
I welded in the tube and pressed in the bushing and test fit the leaf springs.
Since the spring perches I got from 4wheelparts.com had the holes for 5/8" and the stock seems to be 5/16" I got 4 bolts with 5/8" hex heads and ground them round to fit in the holes.
Since the bolts were too big to fit in the stock hole in the left springs, I drilled them out with a 7/16" drill bit:
I then used a ball joint removal tools to press out the bushings to prep the leaf springs for paint.
I then fully welded the front fangs and the support bar:
Hopefully next weekend I start working on setting the pinion angle and weld the new spring perches on the front diff and test fit it measure the castor angles.
I was going to go with the stock chrome rear bumper but found this on ebay for fairly cheap. I like the tougher look, I plan on painting it matte black when it gets warmer.
Nice work. I just bought a Lincoln 180 so now I can officially do a SOA reverse lift in a couple years once I've got the extra $$.
Nice pictures looks good!
Thanks @winchested, these hotter amp welders make such a difference. I'll really need it when I go to weld my C back on the axle tube.
Good luck on the SOA Reverse, I'm curious about how all this will work out.
I have been looking at the ebay bumpers. Good prices. Are you happy with the quality?
Yes I am, very happy. Very solid piece. Ready to sand and paint.
This one was built by AffordableOffRoad, $220 and free shipping. There are 2 sizes, this one of the smaller one.
believe it or not, my rear diff was worse
Wow, how does that happen? Does it get submerged under water?
But talk about project creep, rebuilding that rear diff turned into a Spring Over Axle and Reverse Shackle Conversion, with a hi-steer thrown in. And I might have to rebuild the trans, transfer case too. And I already know my engine is shot.
Moving right along with the Spring Over Axle conversion and Front Axle swap. I pressed out the old bushings and pressed in new rubber ones and painted the leaf springs. I then mocked the front axle assembly to measure for the pinion angle. This is the angle of the front driveshaft to the Transfer case.
I went with 15 degrees to point the pinion directly at the Transfer case as I'll be using a Front driveshaft with a CV joint for the increased driveline angle because of the lift.
On the passenger side, I ground down the housing the allow the new perch to sit square and at the same height as the other side.
And to center the axle within the wheel well I had to move it back a few inches.
I then installed the new beefed up U-Bolts and plates to get ready to weld the perches in.
After that I rotated the spindle to 6 degrees positive castor, as you see here. The factory had it at 0 degrees and causing all sorts of driveablility problems.
This is a shot of it with the perches welded in and painted, the u-bolts and plated installed and tightened down. I still need to weld in the spindle and paint that as well.
I still need to install the carrier and pinion and set that up and install the axles and put together the new hi-steer setup. And then on to the rear, that will be much easier to the Spring Over Axle on.
Geeze, I'm really loving your build thread. Your pictures are a huge help, and inspiration. I didn'r read back too far but did you buy the whole CPT kit through IH Parts?
Thanks @winchested, I'm glad you're able make use of my huge conglomeration of pictures.
I bought the CPT Reverse shackle kit from IH Parts. They get alot of negative press here but the price was not too bad and quality was quite impressive. The rest I got from Barnes 4WD. They have some serious hardcore 4x4 parts, and I probably went overboard with the 5/8" ubolts, plates and shock mounts. It took alot longer getting those to fit.
If you have any other questions or need more pictures, let me know
Looks great! Did you do or use anything special (POR-15, rust bullet, etc) to paint the leaf springs?
Thanks. I painted the leaf springs with a product called Chassis Saver. It's made by the people who make MonstaLiner. It's great stuff. I've painted my frame and the under side of the floor pan and rear bed with it.
Looking really good so far. Can't wait to see the front axle finished and permanently attached.
The "Project Double D's" Garage