1967 Scout Beater Build

Discussion in 'Binder Builds' started by Don B, Feb 20, 2019.


  1. Don B

    Don B Farmall Cub

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    Started on removing the bed and got the measurements for the side rail "c" channel supports. They are 1" x 2-5/8" x 1" about 5 feet long and measure out to be 14 gauge thick. I'll get these made by a local sheet metal shop ho is conveniently owned by a car nut for $50 for the pair. I'll have to get some rectangular tubing for the rear support which requires about 1" x 4" tubing also 5 feet long. Also made my tank for de-rusting the doors in 50/50 vinegar water solution. The tank does half a door at a time to save on vinegar. I made it out of 2 x 8's and some scrap plywood finished outer dimensions are 36 wide by 30 high by 9" thick. Caulked all the inside seams and put in a cheap bed mattress cover for an additional liner. This used 10 gallons of vinegar and 10 gallons of water to fill to about 4" below the top of the tank. Had a couple of leaks through the knots so put a bucket underneath the tank to collect the vinegar which seeped out. My earlier test showed that 30 hours is about right for this process. Couple of tank photos attached.
     

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  2. Don B

    Don B Farmall Cub

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    Removed rear bed floor tonight. Definitely need larger than 1/4” drill bit to drill the spot welds out! Found as,e rust as the drivers side so it’s off to the metal supplier to see if I can get some rectangular tubing for the intermediate floor braces. With my custom bent “C” channels I should be in position to tackle the floor structure replacement. I,m still not sure what I will use for floor metal but I’m leaning towards 14 gauge flat sheet that I’ll cover with the rubber dot pattern sheeting....cause I like it. Any comments on other alternatives welcome just not tread plate.
     
  3. tim vaughan

    tim vaughan Farmall Cub

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    I personally would use flat sheet. It looks more original to me.
     
  4. Belltownbikes

    Belltownbikes Farmall Cub

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    Good thread - your approach is the same as ours. Have fun. Bob
     
  5. Don B

    Don B Farmall Cub

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    Some of the weekend progress Removed the right fender, made and welded in the upper inner patch, welded in the inner bed patch, made the outer fender liner (no photo yest) and noticed that it is canted 7/8" in 14" for angle. I took a considerable amount of time to set the tailgate width and box alignment. I used some of my "C" channels I had made as a brace for this. I started to make the inner rear braces which have the 2" hole for the body mount access but never finished them. All the patches/new pieces have weld-through zinc primer on the seams before welding.

    I'm not sure if my passenger side needs all of the sheet metal replacement that the drivers side did but I'll see when I rip into it. I'm kind of cherry picking my spots right now because I still need to remove and replace all the lower inside box metal, at least the bottom 3-4" and then weld it to the new "C" channel. I know once I remove the lower rusted metal box "movement" will be hard to control. Right now my plan is to rest the box on my new rear section metal and then deal with the rest of the drivers side, same thing with the passenger side. It all needs to be on plane and square.
    After all this its on to the actual "C" channel install and the bed supports!
     

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  6. Don B

    Don B Farmall Cub

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    Second weekend on this part of the Scout rear section. I did determine that the passenger side will need sheet metal fab/replacement so I went ahead and removed all the rusted out sections and fabbed most of it up. I haven't welded in the rear flat cap section yet because it's a pain to make everything fit with the other side. All the measurements have to be spot on for the box to lie flat in plane and the rear opening being square. My other car is in storage and the owner says it's going to flood so I have to leave the Scout work and retrieve that car. My storage is going to get pretty full when that car gets parked here! While I'm moving things around I might as well take my 196 and transmission/TC for a nice ride to the car wash to degrease everything.
    I probably won't have any work until next weekend unless we are in the finals in a bonspiel which starts Tuesday. I'll post photos when I get a chance.

    Don b
     
  7. oneof3k

    oneof3k Binder Driver

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    Trust me, it's one hell of a great feeling when the last patch/panel has been taken care of! You've done a butt-load and hopefully the PS will be a bit less work? If you need any measurements, let me know!
     
  8. Don B

    Don B Farmall Cub

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    I think my Scout is cockeyed from the po using it as a bulldozer so I doubt any of my measurements are great anyway...lol.
     
  9. Don B

    Don B Farmall Cub

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    Pictures from the weekend excitement. Removed the passenger side rear rusted sections and fabed the replacements. Welded pretty much everything in except for the hinge plates. I want to have the tailgate handy to make sure it all fits ok. My sides never were consistent in measurement, probably due to previous damage.

    I noticed that the rear bolted on frame member is also twisted/bent slightly. I'm guessing that I'll have to bring it somewhere for straightening maybe at the same time as my front bumper. I wish I had a forge and I would just do this myself. Also have to make a new bumper stop bracket as you can see from the photo. I didn't realize I was hand making a Scout!

    Cheers!
     

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  10. Don B

    Don B Farmall Cub

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    Lots of work done since the last post. The suspension bump stop was fabbed and installed. The old "C" channel and sheet metal was removed and replaced. I had a hell of a time getting the drivers side flat and ended up doing two things differently on the passenger side, first I bent up some "L" channels and welded them in on a temp basis to assist in keeping everything straight. I also made a slapper to try to get everything flat before and after welding. I noticed that when I cut out the side box and C sheet metal the remaining metal was quite curved...maybe some type of internal stress. Removed a rusted section from the gas tank side section panel. Welded everything in and primed the joints after grinding with galvanized weld through primer. I'll eventually coat all the welded sheet metal with construction adhesive which I like better that seam sealer. Some photos attached.
     

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  11. Don B

    Don B Farmall Cub

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    After the passenger side bed side and C channel replacement it was time to fab the bed supports. The two intermediate ones had the attachment points welded on for the brake lines. The rearmost support needed a extra 45 degree piece welded on and shaped to mock the OEM portion where the bed floor will eventually rest on. I guess it acts to guide the tailgate and seals as well later on.I used 1 x 3 rectangular steel tubing for all of the supports and the rear one is slightly less wide than OEM, 3" vs 3-3/8" so it's placement had to address this. When I installed my C channels I did account for this so hopefully it will all work out. Using a piece of 90 degree steel and welding it at a angle for the rear support and then filling in the sides, again at an angle I ended up with a not too bad rear support. I drilled the access holes for the rear frame supports and pre-drilled the body mount holes. I did go undersized for these as I still might use carraige bolts here so might want to file out the squares. This way the bolts won't be a nuisance up on my truck bed and it'll look better. When welding in the C channels I noticed that they curved inwards, probably from the heat even though I spot welded. Fortunately, the supports were cut short on purpose for some tweaking. I measured what I needed to made the bed sides straight and welded on some shims. The supports also had L supports underneath similar to the factory setup. The rear of the frames themselves needed some rust repair as the PO had the massive and ugly rear bumper was welded directly to the frame and it ended up being a rust trap. Some 1/8" metal patches , welding and grinding and this was sorted out. Somewhat out of sequence but the rear frame member was removed and like most things in this Scout needed some love. The PO had burned out several holes in the bottom and the right bumper mounting holes were mushroomed out, must of tried pulling something really big! The frame member was also really banged up, twisted and dented. Not sure how this could happen. In a ironic twist of fate the uber ugly rear bumper ended up being the anvil that my wife and I used to bang it back to a semblance of normal. Once done I fabricated some rear filler patches welded them in and then weld filled metal to the front side of the frame member. Ground the sucker off and redrilled any holes required. All in all about 4 hours of work later and it was all repaired about as good as I can get it. De-rusted the whole mess and primed the areas which will be difficult to get to after installation. I don't have a finished photo of this section but will add it in the next post. I'm so close to rust repairs being done I can almost taste it!
     

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  12. Don B

    Don B Farmall Cub

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    Since the body is raised up I decided now was a good time to derust and POR 15 the rear section of the frame. I like and hate POR as while I have used it successfully in the past I always end up with it on my skin or hair and it's a pain to get out. I prepped out the rear section and carefully placed everything into proper alignment. The rear floor frame member was bolted into place and I then tacked the rearmost floor support into position. I filled in any pits from drilling out spot welds and ground them smooth. At this point all the bed supports were welded in and the support gussets welded in. Everything that would be covered up with the bed was given a coat of weld through primer. I decided to go with 14 gauge flat sheet for the floor so picked up a cut sheet on Saturday morning. I did cut off about 1/8" from the front bed rectangular tubing which would allow the sheet to go all the way forward to just shy of the large phillips headed bolts on the forward bulkhead. I drilled out all the locations where I needed to plug weld and used about a 3" spacing along the edges and only four in the middle of the middle supports as I was going to weld these eon the bottom of the floor as well. No real suprises here just a lot of welding and then grinding flat. Once the floor was in and ground I clamped some scrap steel along the rear bed lip so I could put the bend in in. I just used a bfh and a short piece of steel to do this and it turned out not too bad. That was about it for the weekends progress. Next I have a small side rust repair and the rear tailgate support pieces to reinstall to so so hopefully this can be done this week. Getting there!
     

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  13. Don B

    Don B Farmall Cub

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    Side repair is complete so I have completed all the rear section rust R&R. Next I removed a small section of the front "V" area under the heater box which was rusty. I ended up fabricating and replacing two sections, one on the forward part of the "V" and one on the inside fender. Ground everything out and laid on some galvanized primer and and I am done with the body rust repairs!!! YAH!

    Next up is stripping the engine bay for paint so I can install the 196. I'll post some photos maybe tomorrow.

    Cheers Don B.
     
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  14. Don B

    Don B Farmall Cub

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    Rear side inner panel repair photos. Engine bay "V" rust repair photos and the stripper action for the engine bay attached. I used a combination of a stripper disc (looks like black sponge toffee..4-1/2 disc) and paint stripper with a ss wire hand brush for paint removal. Wire pick to get into all the corners and to remove the 50 year old caulk. This is about the least painful way I could come up with to strip the engine bay. It's still a high pita factor job though!
     

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  15. oneof3k

    oneof3k Binder Driver

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    Your project is coming along really well! It's a nice feeling to be done with rust R&R for sure.

    I'm too lazy to go back to see, but did you have any of the factory-sprayed heat and/or sound deadener in your engine bay? I remember removing that stuff; it certainly tested my sanity....
     
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  16. Don B

    Don B Farmall Cub

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    Nope, nothing but old oil and dust/sand mixture which made a kind of asphalt! I was planning on putting in sound deadening/insulation though. Not sure which product yet. I might install the firewall stuff on the inside of the Scout and on the outside of the transmission tunnel. My Scout also had a strip of thick tar like stuff on the inner side fenders running diagonally across the panel. Probably to stop drumming. I'll have to source this material out as well. It was still soft when I chiselled it out last night.
     
  17. oneof3k

    oneof3k Binder Driver

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    Was that stuff like this?
    inside1.jpg

    I posted a question to the community on this tar-like substance a few months back but very little feedback received. If it's the same stuff, I agree that it could be for sound dampening. As this stuff is not on my other Scouts, I figured it put there by the PO so I don't think I'm going to reapply?
     
  18. Don B

    Don B Farmall Cub

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    Yup, looks like the same stuff. Impressive that it was still fairly soft after so many years.
     

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