1967 Loadstar!

Discussion in 'General IH Tech' started by TheCrazyFarmer, Jun 5, 2020.


  1. TheCrazyFarmer

    TheCrazyFarmer High Wheeler

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    Okay everyone!

    I'm going to go look at a 1967 Loadstar on Monday. I found it on Craigslist, and it looks to be exactly what I'm looking for!

    Its got a 16' dump bed, a 2 speed rear, a 392, a GVWR of 25500LBS, and its CHEAP!!!! And on top of that, its only about an hour and a half away from me, and I can drive it home!

    It apparently has a slight leak in the water pump, and the exhaust is rusted out and dragging on the ground, but it should be able to make it home! If anyone has tips for the water pump, that would be great!

    I'm going to go see it on Monday, and if it looks to be in good enough condition, I will be driving it home!

    Here's a few pics from the ad. Its not the prettiest paint color out there, but that aint the point.

    01414_47k9VQJtNRp_0lM0t2_600x450.jpg 00R0R_96KHgo6xY4Y_0Ba0rS_1200x900.jpg 00c0c_32t3kl2BDqE_0Ba0rS_600x450.jpg
     
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  2. Randall Barringer

    Randall Barringer Y-Block King

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    Looks great.
    Before driving it home, make sure that the brakes, steering, tires, and other safety items are in good shape.
    For the water pump, could it be repaired before the trip?
    The exhaust could just be cut off. It will be loud as heck, but will work until you can fix it correctly.
    Good luck and keep us posted.
     
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  3. Gunfighter97

    Gunfighter97 Binder Driver

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    Beware of extreme rust in the cooling system. The leak, if minor, could be temporarily fixed with pepper, but after that you should thoroughly flush, and evaluate the cooling system. If its minor enough as well, you may do the trip in stages, bring a bunch of water and periodically stop, cool down, and add. This assuming you can stop/steer/start and maintain speed.
    Edit: like the c-series, beware of rott.
    Sent from my LG-LS993 using Tapatalk
     
  4. TheCrazyFarmer

    TheCrazyFarmer High Wheeler

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    Thanks guys!

    I will make sure that the brakes and everything else works. The guy said he was using it 6-8 months ago, hauling 6 ton several times a week. I'll crawl underneath and make sure everything is structurally sound, and if it has a hole or 2 in the floor, who cares! I will also have a driver following or leading me.

    My plan was to pull the exhaust that's hanging down, and I figured I could stop and cool down every so often to top off the water. If I can temporarily fix the leak to get it home, that would be great!

    Do I just pour a bunch o black pepper down the radiator? If so, how much? I've heard you can crack an egg or two to temporarily seal a radiator leak, but I don't know if it'll help with this.

    Thanks for the help guys!
     
  5. Gunfighter97

    Gunfighter97 Binder Driver

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    Eggs work too, underscore temporary. Keep in mind, whatever you put in there, you will have to clean out or deal with side effects at some point.

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  6. mallen

    mallen Y-Block King

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    Make sure the temp gauge works. Maybe even bring an aftermarket gauge and wire it up before the trip home if you dont have a working gauge. That and an oil gauge are super important, even more so since you know there is a cooling problem. Heat kills engines so dont overheat it. If it starts climbing stop and let it cool and top up the water.

    If its been overheated, the thermostat may be shot. Overheating a thermostat can destroy a good one. Its rather irritating. Your trying to fix a overheat issue. You remove the thermostat, and check it in hot water. Its bad. So you replace it. The truck still overheats. So you look for more problems and fix them. But it still overheats. After much looking you cant find anything else wrong. Finally you check the thermostat again even though you know its good. And its bad again. Because when you overheated it it blew out the wax motor on the thermostat.

    So bring a thermostat as well and a gasket and basic tools. Obviously, be careful on thermostat housing bolts. They get damaged by ham foisted farmers and poorly repaired, even in cast iron. So be careful not to torque down to hard. A trick when tightening bolts that you need to be careful about is to hook your index finger over the wrench right by the head and pull on the wrench an inch or so away from the bolts center rather than gipping the wrench with your whole hand and pulling as hard as you can 8-12 inches away from the pivot point.

    Knowing that you have a cooling system problem, that temp gauge is supper super important. I cant stress enough that you need to be certain to have a working one. Make sure it reads low when its cold and comes up when it reaches operating temp. The more I think about jt, the idea of bringing a dash mounted aftermarket one and everything you need to wire it up is not a bad idea.
     
  7. TheCrazyFarmer

    TheCrazyFarmer High Wheeler

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    I don't have an aftermarket gauge. I have a IR temp gun, if I know the right temp I can just check it every so often. Would that work?
     
  8. Gunfighter97

    Gunfighter97 Binder Driver

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    You might, depending on Mr. Turnip's role in this adventure, pull his temp gauge, if working.

    Sent from my LG-LS993 using Tapatalk
     
  9. TheCrazyFarmer

    TheCrazyFarmer High Wheeler

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    I would rather not, but the wire for the Turnips temp gauge is broken off anyway, so it wouldn't hurt none. My temp gauge did work before the wire broke.
     
  10. TheCrazyFarmer

    TheCrazyFarmer High Wheeler

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    By the way, How much oil does a 392 take? and what weight should I get?
     
  11. Gunfighter97

    Gunfighter97 Binder Driver

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    Its not hard to remove, mark the poles 1 and 2 along with the corresponding wires before removal (just unhook your battery ground first) The gauge comes out with the removal of two nuts that retain a small bracket. I was just pointing that out since the same era LS would likely use the same part as the c-series.

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  12. TheCrazyFarmer

    TheCrazyFarmer High Wheeler

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    I just emailed the guy, and he said he's pretty sure most of the gauges/electrical works.

    If the temp gauge works I will drive it home, if it don't, I'll buy it (IF ITS IN GOOD SHAPE), and come back another day to wire in a gauge and bring it home.
     
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  13. mallen

    mallen Y-Block King

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    Loadstar may take more than the smaller trucks. I think they used a larger oil pan.. Use the same 15w40 high zinc oil you use in a 266 304 or 345.(or whatever kind you chose for the turnip truck) Drain it, change the filter and then add 5 quarts. Check it and add more as necessary. Having two of them now, you dont need to worry about buying too much and can just buy the big 2.5 gallon bottle.

    I checked an old loadstar manual. I think its for a 76. It says the 345 and 392 take 8 quarts, except the 4x4 models that take 7 quarts. I guess that means that the 4x4 loadstars have a different oil pan than the 2wd ones. Who knew.... (Whoever did, I bet they are on the forum) Dont assume yours (if you get it) takes that much. You never know if someone swapped an engine, or even just an oil pan.
     
    Last edited: Jun 5, 2020
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  14. TheCrazyFarmer

    TheCrazyFarmer High Wheeler

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    Thanks for the info!

    He says he's driven it in the last 12 months, so my guess is that it has oil, but I'll bring some just in case. I usually put 10W40 in the Turnip, Is that sufficient?
     
  15. scoutboy74

    scoutboy74 Lives in an IH Dealership

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    Usually, a water pump develops a leak at the weep hole when the bearings inside the pump have worn past their tolerance point. The weep hole leak is a tattle tale to let you know that the water pump is wanting a permanent vacation. The overall cooling system may still be capable of maintaining normal operating temperature...for awhile. The good news is you aren't moving a load. Just take it easy. Stop often and check things out. As long as the tires aren't weather checked and dry-rotting off the rims and the thing stops decently, you can run limp mode quite a ways. It just takes some time.
     
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  16. mongocanfly

    mongocanfly High Wheeler

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    Nice find johnny... looks like a work horse
     
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  17. TheCrazyFarmer

    TheCrazyFarmer High Wheeler

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    We plan to take it real easy, and we will take back roads home.
     
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  18. TheCrazyFarmer

    TheCrazyFarmer High Wheeler

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    Thanks Greg! I think it does.:cowboy:
     
  19. mallen

    mallen Y-Block King

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    Yes, that should be fine. At the very least check that it hasnt say, leaked out of a leaky drain plug while it sat. There's a huge debate over which oil has enough zinc and what viscosity you should use, but that's a long term issue. Whatever you use in the turnip truck is as right for the 392 as it is for the turnip truck. They all use the same oil, thermostats , etc. Very similar engines. Of course, look under the hood and verify 100% that its an SV engine. It should look very much like the one in the turnip truck.
     
    Last edited: Jun 5, 2020
  20. TheCrazyFarmer

    TheCrazyFarmer High Wheeler

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    Thanks, I'll verify that! I hate it when people don't include an under the hood picture in their ad.
     
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