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Discussion in 'General IH Tech' started by TheCrazyFarmer, Jun 5, 2020.
Here is a flow chart out of a Holley manual.
Thanks for the diagrams guys! Its nice to have the visual.
Do you think this valve could be out of adjustment? Maybe that's why it won't hold vacuum. What else could be causing that?
Or dirty. Be careful cleaning it, the manual actually mentions to be careful so you know it's something to proceed slowly and carefully with.
Am I gonna have to remove the distributor to figure this stuff out? I've never done that before.
I'm having trouble figuring out what the next step is. Should I take out the distributor, and figure out what's happening with the governor? Should I still be chasing after the carb?
I secretly hate you for finding a truck that already had a modern rim size. You don't know how lucky you were! Lots of military trucks using 10R22.5. Might be able to find some from surplus somewhere. I had to struggle to find replacements for my 20" split rims. I've got the big-6 stud-piloted (Budd) lug pattern, and scored a lucky deal in Scio for 22.5" rims with new tires for 100 each. I had to use two torque multipliers to get the lug nuts off (exploded one of them, yikes!).
It's funny I ran across this thread! I actually bought a 1968 Loadstar 1700 with 18' hoist, 5-speed, 392, and 2-speed rear end last spring. I found it outside Newberg, OR where it had sat for 15 years. We messed with the brakes for hours, finally got it bled with the right rear plugged off, and I eventually drove it home to Aumsville, OR. Mine also accelerates slowly ok, but bogs down if I try to accelerate too hard. It seemed to get worse as I drove home. I'm pretty handy and am sure I can fix it, but never devoted any time since the brakes/tires were shot. I'm working on solving that now, so engine work will be in my future.
I have the same governor setup, but mine is still hooked up. I have managed to haul 10k lbs of dirt about 1/2 mile for my neighbor a couple times. I was keeping my fingers crossed hoping my tires didn't blow. Your old tires looked great compared to mine! Good luck with your carb. Let me know if you want any pictures of how mine is hooked up.
If your going to fix the governor, it might be necessary. But I'm not familiar enough with them to know.
Also, for removing a distributor, you'll want to make a reference mark for where your rotor is pointing before you pull it out. Then make sure you get it back in the same position. If you put the distributor back in and have it off by one tooth, it'll mess up your timing a heck of a lot. If it's similar to many other engines, the distributor gear will also drive your oil pump, and the oil pump shaft will have a slot in the end which the tip of your distributor shaft engages. Don't rotate the engine while you have your distributor out, or it'll be more work to get that stuff all lined up again.
When I get around to checking out my engine, I'm heading straight for the carb. I already did some electrical checks and messed with the points. Since it sat for a while, I KNOW my carb needs cleaned out at the very least.
I just decided to go for it and get a new carb. I decided that doing all of the crap with the distributor would be too difficult, take too long, and it still might not solve my problem. I ordered a new Holley 2300 350CFM non-governed carb from O'Reilly's this morning, and picked it up at about noon.
The problem is completely gone! I can stomp the pedal all I want without a backfire! I was worried when I first fired it up because it was backfiring, and it didn't want to run. It was because the timing was still messed up from me trying to find the number ans vacuum ports. So I set the timing to 0, let it warm for a little, hooked up the vac advance again, and no more backfires! It's the same as it was with the turnip truck. I replaced pretty much everything else, before I narrowed it down to the carb.
I eventually do want to get the governor fixed, and put the truck back the way its "supposed to be", but this is great for now!
YEEEEHAW!!! Now I gotta go get my tires mounted this week!
Thanks a whole lot guys!
Glad you got it running! Now take your old carb apart and learn something from it. Familiarize yourself with the inner workings. Discover the crud built up inside that's been causing your so much grief. The stakes are low now that the truck is already running fine, so you have nothing to fear.
Also, if you were curious about power steering, here's what mine looks like. Has a nice, big, double acting ram on it.
Mine has manual steering, but that's still a good picture to have.
There's also a guy with power steering parts for an 1800. Might be a rare opportunity. It's the best upgrade in mind, coming from a Chevy 6500 with manual steering. I'd never go back again.
Finally was able to take her into town to get shod. It was delayed do to the fires nearby.
The tires are smaller, but that shouldn't really change anything. It can't go quite as fast, but I sure don't care about that.
I will be getting a load of gravel here soon, and that will be my first haul with this thing!
Pictures! Where are the pictures!
Sorry, I know how much you guys love pictures. Here they are!
Those are fine. They dont look too small or anything. Check your spread as read on the speedo vs what's a good enabled speedometer program on your phone reads. The downside is you can't go as fast. But trucks like that are not made to get someplace fast. They are made to get someplace with a load of cargo in the back. They take their time and get there when they get there. On the plus side, you have a little more torque at the rear wheels.
Does it have a single speed or a dual speed rear axle? (If you have a dual speed make sure you understand all the ins and outs of how to operate it. I've not used one myself, but I understand there are some important things to know or you will run into serious problems)
Its a 2 Speed rear. I have no experience splitting gears. You only need the high gears for driving, but obviously, I'm not using this truck as a daily driver! I heard that you only really need a couple of the low gears, but I'm sure it varies from truck to truck.
I believe that on most of the split shift transmissions in Loadstars you shift in order, 1L-1H-2L-2H-3L-3H-4L-4H-5L-5H, sometimes only splitting the high gears. That seems pretty straight forward, but I don't know what my transmission would be. I remember hearing that some transmissions would rather you go from 4L-5L-4H-5H. That would take a bit to get used to!
I still have the contact info of the PO, so I can message him and see if he remembers how it worked.
I seem to recall reading a Spicer manual that used the word "NEVER" in all caps. They said "NEVER" shift the axle on a downgrade. The idea was that the engine could have to speed up but would be stopped by the governor (Damn that Gavin) and thus would not be able to re-engage and you'd lose engine breaking. (I imagine this could be problematic if you were downshifting because you needed MORE engine breaking) It also makes me wonder if, not having a governor anymore, you could end up over revving the engine and causing damage.