1965 D1100 4x4 Build (undoing 50 years of previous owners)

Discussion in 'Binder Builds' started by Gunfighter97, Dec 2, 2018.


  1. Gunfighter97

    Gunfighter97 Farmall Cub

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    Hello Binder planet, I've been told yall like round bodies, so heres another one for you to drool on. I have another one, a 66 1200a 2wd flatbed, and eventually it may end up here too, but for now its my emergency parts source. Now to the rig!
    20170504_171014(1).jpg
    This is Sherman, my 1965 D1100 4x4, my first IH and the beginnings of my IH addiction. Its rundown as follows:
    # matching 304
    Original t98 with driver side S35C Ramsey pto (pto not installed)
    12" 12 spring clutch
    Dealer installed Warn 8k winch/bumper
    (winch not installed)
    Original NP202 TC
    1200/1210 axles(RA 16/FA 25)
    Later square body steering column/power gear
    Mercedes G-wagen steering wheel(dont ask)

    Everything Ive done so far:
    New wiring harness accept for starter and rear/tail since they werent hacked up(couple buggaboos still to fix)
    Rebuilt headlight buckets/H4 conversion
    New 10si alternator
    Lots and lots of research
    Gutting/fixing PO work like installing the correct seat with more than one bolt, replacing moldy seatbelts, cleaning, wiring ect.
    new steel brake lines
    new dual exhaust (done by shop and I'm not impressed with it)
    New battery
    Compiled lots of needed parts

    Fixes in progress:
    Fix "drunk simulator" the bottom three leaves in my front packs were layered backwards, and the caster shims were backwards, so Ive fixed that. I also have a stabilizer that I will put on(mine was missing) I also have a factory tie rod guard for my axle(was also missing) looking for fixes on the pitman arm linkage or possibly a side to side box rather than the fore aft setup to prevent tire rubbing, new shocks sooner or later.
    Cooling system rebuild. Its rusty in there so I'm throwing everyrhing and the kitchen sink at it. Have new hose, alluminum radiator, heater core, and NOS heater valve waiting. Engine will be getting all new freeze plugs and a mechanical temp/oil pressure gauge.
    Rebuild transmission: removing it to do the freeze plugs, and it leaks, so ima just overhualing it.
    Tune up
    Currently rebuilding transfer case, waiting on the kit.
    Fix oil leaks: will get alot of gaskets after I pull the trans.

    Future fixes:
    The dreaded roundbody cowl/vents
    Reseal axles and add manual lockers at some point
    Fix my goobered driver door so I can roll my window down
    Replace rear springs

    The dream:
    centrifugal Paxton Mcchullock supercharger
    20170506_191309.jpg 20180622_125931_HDR.jpg 20180821_121931_HDR.jpg
     
  2. kevingweq

    kevingweq High Wheeler

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    Nice truck ! Love the round bodies , Keep us updated please
     
  3. Gunfighter97

    Gunfighter97 Farmall Cub

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    I shall indeed. I have done alot of little things, couple big things, Ill post up a summary of the bigger jobs I've done and might as well post up the current stuff.
    I spent this afternoon pressure washing my TC sadly with little effect. The gunk is strong in this one, that and I think the impeller in my pressure washer is going bad. Anyways here it is fresh out of the rig and with some preliminary muck removal: 20181126_164039.jpg 20181126_164047.jpg 20181201_131221.jpg 20181201_131229_HDR.jpg 20181201_132227.jpg 20181201_134100.jpg 20181201_141423_HDR.jpg
    Wouldve loved to have a pto to put on this but sadly I cant find one available for sale :no: once I get the outside clean Im going to put it on a bench and do a full rebuild. I hope to paint it the original IH red but I dont have a spray gun and dont know if theres a good way to aply a good durrable paint without one. The U-joint bearings are pretty shot, looked at the needles in their cups; dont think theyre supposed to be flat sided lol. Already rebuilt the front shaft, rebuild of both the rear and the jack shaft will soon follow. Transmission is getting the same treatment as the TC, already have its kit. My heater was basically DOA so Ive got new guts and plans to restore the rest of it. Just reworked the controll knob system(was assembled all wrong).
    The TC has an odd extra crossmember that a PO added, I just found a thread here on it earlier today. 20181125_152146.jpg
    The main part is square tube, depending on wall thickness I may keep it, but will be adding a bushing type mount as opposed to the bolted on angle iron.
    Will also be doing a fuel pump rebuild now as it sprung a leak yesterday while I was running the rad flush. 20181201_140508(1).jpg 20181201_141801.jpg
    I cant tell real well wich unit this is from my parts manual, looks like pieces of two diferent units.
    When I do my freeze plugs Im going to do new pan/VC/timing cover/oil filter gaskets and while I'm in there will be looking at the cam and lifters, #4 and #6 have a couple making noise; one is hitting pretty hard and one is intermittent, not as bad. I may or may not do new head gaskets, havent decided yet.
    I have new belts, cap, points, wires, rotor, condenser, T-stat, temp sender, hoses, the list goes on and on. I was going steady one thing at a time and then I figured out that I could save some trouble and do the freeze plugs with the tranny out and it snowballed from there. Now I'm jumping between 5 diferent jobs and its alot slower, but Ill get it done. The part I'm most afraid to touch is A the rust and B my screwed up driver door.
    20181104_161456.jpg 20180618_092912.jpg
    Got lots of plans for this thing, its going to be the Swiss Army Knife mother of all light trucks by the time I'm done with it.
     
  4. Gunfighter97

    Gunfighter97 Farmall Cub

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    I got this thing a bout 2.5 years ago, its biggest issues were electrical. Everything worked when I got it, but that didnt last long. The dash had a bad case of spaghetti syndrome, there was a 90 amp gm alternator in it, with the delco remmy regulator still hooked up and the ammeter disconected. All the lights were hacked, and the signals and hazards were the worst of all cuz of the column swap. I ordered a reproduction harness for the entire truck shy of what was under the cab, I managed to save that. In the end of the rewiring I managed to repair the signal switch and had the tail/stop/signals working properly, unfortunatly the hazard knob fries fuses. This truck has around 1.5" body lift so I cant put the original column back. My plan is to fabricate a rag joint setup under the hood to jive with a Scout 800 upper column, that way I can get the steering wheel I want and a more authentic look and also use the original signal switch. While rewiring I aquired a used headlight switch, since mine was long gone. The dimmer coil was buggered though unfortunately. However it did have the knob I needed. I removed the switch from my 1200a and its coil looked great. Unfortunately a couple tabs were lost inside of it; took it apart and the slide was broken. I ended up taking them both apart, used the good slide, polished the crap out of all the contacts in the 1200a switch, and put the tabs back in place with a crude staking method: 20180508_111421.jpg 20180512_124938.jpg 20180512_124948.jpg 20180512_125938.jpg
    Basically I used a sharp chisle and an anvil to make new tabs, then peened them over with a filed wood block under it to hold it in place and my gunsmithing punches. This switch is fully working, however, I miss diagnossed it durring my trouble shooting. The hunt continued, and I found the original switch as a reproduction on Classic Industries. 20180808_133349.jpg
    The dimmer on this switch works well, I put some dielectric grease on it and it smoothed out, doesnt flash on/off. Go figure this is a GM surplus part from 57-63. On their website its item # 1995095 couldn't find them anywhere else. At the time it was around $20 IIRC. It feels great to operate, uses the original knob and looks great, however it is made in Taiwan. When it fails, I'll post about it here, but its been working great so far. Im saving the other switch for a spare. My last couple issues are the dome light is finniky, and I havent had time to mess with it yet, my backup light circuit doesnt work, that will get fixed when I add the switch in my tranny rebuild, and since I dont have a proper horn button, my horn is a switch on the dash that used to be for my hazard lights. The last thing is that my gauges turnn off and on every once in a while. Its probably the regulator, easy enough fix. What I havent been able to solve is my fuel gauge never reads higher than 1/8 tank. Ive inspected the wire, swapped the gauge, and it has a new sender, however it was installed by the same shop that utterly screwed up everything else so it may be suspect. I was disapointed when the gas gauge that I'd been saying would be fixed the whole time wasnt, but it made up for it the first time all 5 of the little amber roof lights came on :clap:


    I still want that gas gauge tho:cornfused:
     
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  5. patrick r

    patrick r Farmall Cub

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    Nice work!
    I have a NP 202 on the shop floor right now. What a heavy pig!
    If you have a TSC locally their IH red rattle can paint is pretty good.
    Have fun with it.
     
  6. BigRigg

    BigRigg Y-Block King

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    Cool truck! I used to cruise a 65 travelette. An IH friend let me borrow it while my scout was torn down. I drove it for about 6 months. I loved that old truck. I wish I would have bought it when I had the chance. 65 has my favorite grille. I look forward to your progress.
     
  7. Gunfighter97

    Gunfighter97 Farmall Cub

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    My brain made a metallic groaning noise trying to decipher TSC for some reason lol. Its hilarious you suggest that. I live 20 minutes from one. Its nearby the Valley Truck and Tractor that this truck was actually shipped to from the factory, go figure. I'll give that paint a look, thanks for the info!
    On IDing the NP202, weight is it, since there are no markings lol. If you fear hernia when moving, its a NP202.
    Yup 65 is my favorite grille too. Im not biased at all, I just didnt know they were diferent till after I bought this one :laugh: somehow its registered as a 63 :cornfused: know thats wrong because of the LST.
    Visited a friend today and he had a good idea for my winch/pto issue. I wanted the pto for the NP202 to run a rear winch, since I have 2 Ramsey 8ks. He suggested something that made me voluntarily smack my fore head on a nearby steel door; I thought about converting the front winch to hydraulic before, with a pump accessory on the fan belt :wacko: "why dont you just run a hydraulic pump off the pto you have for a couple motors on the winches?"
    "BECAUSE I'M TOO STUPID FOR THAT DAVE!"
    *WHAM :wacko:
    Lol that I think will be what I go with in that regard, I get to use my factory PTO, and the hydraulic system will be alot lighter than another pto + drivelines; I will have to ensure that the pto is not capable of being shifted into 'out' to avoid running the pump backwards. With this setup I also wont need to tap my nice shinny oem style harness I just installed either. The rear winch will be mounted underneath the bed floor inbetween the frame rails in part of the endoskeleton I'm designing for the bed and its clutch will have a linkage to a leaver mounted behind the fender on the rear bumper. The thinking behind it is that the floor lacks support in the stock configuration let alone lifted 1.5 inches off the frame. The endoskeleton will fill the gap along the top of the frame rails and support the floor with a sort of thin ladder frame concept. In addition it will either replace or greatly reinforce the poorly designed bed mounts in the front of the bed, and also will have structural pylons going up through the stake slots at either end of the beds side walls. I willl then make a modular rack system that will be based on a simple roll bar behind the cab mounted in the front stake slots, a seperate removable rack for over the bed mounted in the rear stake slots, and a removable extension over the cab for a canoe or light bar. The roll bar and rear rack will be held in place by cross bolts and cotter pins through the frame mounted endoskeleton under the rig. The idea behind the hidden structure in the sidewalls is being able to mount a cherry picker on the back corner and lift heavy objects into the bed without bending the side wall over. In a addition, the roll bar will also be in ridged direct contact with the frame and not the front bed floor currently sitting on four broken mounts. All of this said, Im hoping to make the structure as light as possible (that might be a pipe dream) with thin/sturdy geometry and use of alluminum on the parts above the bed. I'm also going to need a bed floor at some point... Minor technicality.
    While I'm thinking about it, anyone out there know about the LST item I have on my 1200a:
    2 front corner lamps?
    And if it was ever a dealer installed option? I had a bit of harness that was wound up on the driver splash panel and it wasnt on the diagram, but not patch job either, it had connectors consistent elsewhere on the vehicle. I'm thinking its auxilary lights? Dont know for sure since its long gone from the 1200. If I can find the parts theres ample room on my winch bumper.
    The truck will be getting new shoes to replace the 16.5s and desert storm surplus tires once the backordered tires arrive:
    20181201_164038.jpg 20181201_164043.jpg 20181201_164050.jpg
     
  8. mongocanfly

    mongocanfly Farmall Cub

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    My t-case had that 60yr old grimy gunk on it.....I used wire brushes ,screwdrivers,gasket scrapers, putty knifes,mineral spirits,and purple power....it took awhile but it cleaned up very nicely....the pressure washer wouldn't even dent that gunk..
    Mine also had the rotted out vent on the drivers side..pass side looked new.....I cut out the rot and just scabbed metal over it...used about 5-6 pieces...can't be seen unless you crawl under the dash....
     
    Last edited: Dec 3, 2018
  9. Gunfighter97

    Gunfighter97 Farmall Cub

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    Rott repair is what I fear most tbh. Its not the cutting out so much as filling the holes properly. Im thinking I'm going to restore the original design of the vents, and make some access panels under the hood that I can apply POR15 or bed liner/clean through. Also planning on making my own flappers. Saddly my paint just started blistering this last rain storm on the front fender corners behind the wheels. Popped a couple of them and there was wet inside. Looks like I'll have to do something there, so I guess I'll remove/inspect them soon.
    The floors while they could use some cleaning/paint are not bad, door bottoms are great. The only other bad spots are the front bottom edge of the rear fenders(not visible) and the front edge of the bed floor/bottom of the front wall. In regards to body work theres really only a few locations that I want to fix In addition to rust: the painted over crakced bondo on the rear pass fender, painted over crakced bondo below the pass door, and the tailgate is thrashed to say the least. The driver door latch repair will likely be the esiest to fix.
    What will be interesting is the paint prep on my heater body since I dont have a blaster of any kind (kill me now) :helpsmilie: 20181116_163341.jpg
     
  10. mongocanfly

    mongocanfly Farmall Cub

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    My vent and flapper looked good...it was the area between the flapper housing and the door post is where the rot was
     
  11. Gunfighter97

    Gunfighter97 Farmall Cub

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    Yea, mine basically disintegrate whenever you look at them funny so Im going to do new vents and flapers. Was thinking from PVC sheet for the flappers themselves.
     
  12. mongocanfly

    mongocanfly Farmall Cub

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    Look close at the cab corner under the gas fill...if that gasket is broke it may have funneled water in there rotting it from the inside out.....mine did
     
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  13. Gunfighter97

    Gunfighter97 Farmall Cub

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    Looks good under it, inside the cab is fine too, any angles to look at it from specifically? Theres a good dent filled in with bondo on the back face of it. Sorry not the greatest pic ever, from inside: 20180823_121550_HDR.jpg
    Will look it over tomorow. Thanks for the tip!
     
  14. patrick r

    patrick r Farmall Cub

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    I don’t think your heater box looks too bad. I’d just clean it really well and paint the outside. Once the cowl is patched up there won’t be much moisture inside it.
     
  15. Gunfighter97

    Gunfighter97 Farmall Cub

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    I was planning to paint POR or bed liner inside it(you can call me crazy, its ok) If this thing ever leaks again I want it protected. My motto is "overkill is underrated" so if I can go the extra mile to make sure a problem never happens again in my lifetime, I will. I have a friend who might be able to blast it for me, but I'd ranther not bother him. Maybe its time to get a blasting cabinet... :yes:
     
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  16. mongocanfly

    mongocanfly Farmall Cub

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    Where mine was rusted was between the inner and outer panel..down at the bottom...there is a drain hole under the bottom....mine had a plug in it..not letting the water out..mine looked good from the outside but I noticed a couple bubbles in the paint...I started poking it with a screw driver and then it got serious...they don't make patch panels for these...
     
  17. Gunfighter97

    Gunfighter97 Farmall Cub

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    mongocanfly, what was your application method for the purple power? I had some Ive always used through my pressure washer but with the loss of pressure I doubt it will work so well. Ive been here with a screwdriver/brush for days... Theres GOT to be a better way than this!!!
     
  18. mongocanfly

    mongocanfly Farmall Cub

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    I used it in a sqiuirt bottle...spray it down and let it soak...scrape.soak,scrape...it finally came off...a steam jenny might work better....hard to believe that stuff sticks that hard...
     
  19. mongocanfly

    mongocanfly Farmall Cub

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    The mineral spirits I'd just soak a rag a lay it on the gunk and let it soak.....
     
  20. mongocanfly

    mongocanfly Farmall Cub

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    For some reason this thing won't let me edit...I scraped most of the thick stuff off before I used the pp and ms...got it down as close to metal as possible?..
     

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