1964 IHC Scout 80 RCS blog

Discussion in 'Binder Builds' started by Fins160, Jun 4, 2012.


  1. Fins160

    Fins160 Binder Driver

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    Hi everyone,

    I have started work on my early birthday present, a 1964 Scout 80 Red Carpet Series. Got it running and driving. Take a look at my blog here:

    Blog down permanently

    Currently finishing the fuel line routing for the dual tanks and switch, balancing and bleeding all the brakes, and eventually rebuilding the carb. Would appreciate any tips or advice!
     
    Last edited: Apr 18, 2013
  2. guidolyons

    guidolyons High Wheeler

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    You came to the right place :D Cool blog, (the notebook layout is neat) but you'll get more input if you post up pics and progress/questions here in the thread.

    Nice RCS, it looks to be in very good shape. :beer:

    Check out the some of the build threads for some inspiration, DB1115, or any thread by Gary Billings.

    There's some good builds and FAQ on JustIH, too:
    http://www.justih.org/Binder-Bench/showthread.php?t=6071
     
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  3. Fins160

    Fins160 Binder Driver

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    Quick question for anyone that can help. I was running with an electric fuel pump with no flow control and the mechanical was bypassed. I would prefer to run stock with the mechanical pump, so I rebuilt the mechanical pump (seems to be OK), and removed the electric pump. Now I'm having trouble getting it to start.

    A few questions:
    1. Would running the electric fuel pump by itself (non-variable, no flow control) result in sluggish acceleration or poor performance? I read this might be the case, and it's what I was experiencing, so I was hoping the mechanical fuel pump would help.

    2. Starting with a drained fuel line, how long does it typically take for a mechanical pump to pull enough gas to turn over? I tried cranking for 30 seconds with no luck.

    3. Can one run an electric fuel pump inline with a mechanical? The electric being hooked up just after the tank selector switch, and the mechanical in its normal spot.

    Thanks for any help!

    J.P.
     
  4. Fins160

    Fins160 Binder Driver

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    Time to bring this thread up to date. Let's start with the original state of the Red Carpet Series.

    Bought this from AZDIESEL in Stafford, AZ in April as an early birthday present from my wife. These are pictures that the PO took before it arrived.

    It's a 99% complete Scout 80 Red Carpet Series. Still has original headliner, dashpad, hubcaps and interior. Working factory Warn overdrive. Missing the spare tire rack, rear seat and one red arm wrest.

    Has some surface rust and one bad rust spot behind the drivers rear door, but overall very solid. Some minor front driver fender damage, and bent bumpers.

    Did not run when delivered, and the previous owner said he believed it was related to the fuel system. Original fuel pump and selector switch were bypassed with an electric pump, but that still wasn't providing fuel.

    [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG]
     
  5. Fins160

    Fins160 Binder Driver

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    First a little background. I have zero previous mechanical experience aside from oil changes and replacing shocks, but I am an engineer, so I am going to learn as I go. I also picked up the original service manual (including original receipt for the service manual) on ebay for $10. It's in perfect condition, and a lot cheaper than Binder Books.

    [​IMG]

    Now to troubleshoot the fuel system issues. I lost most of these pictures, but I pulled both fuel tanks and found lots of crud inside, but no real rust. Flushed and cleaned thoroughly, but didn't go with POR15 or anything since they seemed to be in good shape. Snaked the fuel feeder lines with some carb cleaner and a wire clothes hanger, revealing some pretty series clogs. Checked the fuel lines leading to the selector switch for clogs, they flowed fine. Cleaned the selector switch and reinstalled, then installed an electric fuel pump just downstream of the selector switch. then reconnected all the lines up to the carb.

    Turned on the battery to activate the electric pump, and we have fuel!

    I was able to fire up the engine and keep it running by carefully balancing the choke and throttle cables. No knocks, but definitely has some oil leaks and blowing lots of colorful smokes and fumes out the tailpipe. I ran up and down the street, giggling like a schoolgirl.

    :clap:
     
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  6. Comanche Scott

    Comanche Scott High Wheeler

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    Sweet! what a great base to start from. Even has the vent ducting.
    There is a guy in AZ who has an ad in the classifieds. He has a lot of Scouts that he is parting out. He may have the parts you need (like the red seat arm, etc).
    With the overdrive and all dolled up, that will be sweet to restore!
    Good luck, :beer:
     
  7. Fins160

    Fins160 Binder Driver

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    Thanks, the guy in the classifieds is actually the guy I bought it from, so he's given me about all the RCS stuff he has to go along with it. I have all the original red knobs and everything, so those will be fun to clean up!
     
  8. Fins160

    Fins160 Binder Driver

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    I got the engine going, but was unable to get it into gear. My clutch was slack as cooked spaghetti. Found out my clutch slave was leaking and I wasn't getting any pressure. Pulled it off clean it up and see if I could rebuild it.



    [​IMG]
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    After cleaning and replacing, I was able to get it to build enough pressure to get in and out of gear. Up and down the block I went. :oldih:

    Despite some timing and carburetor issues that hampered my acceleration, she ran great!

    However, I noticed I was still slowly losing pressure and leaking, so I had to go for a full slave replacement. Scoutparts wanted $150 for a slave cylinder, but forkliftpartssupply.com had one for only $25, same exact part. Awesome.

    New part in, no more clutch leaks!

    [​IMG]
     
  9. Fins160

    Fins160 Binder Driver

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    Fuel pump:

    On the way to work on a relatively-cool day in June, my Scout started sputtering and backfiring going down the road. I could get her started, but as soon as I got any acceleration, the engine would die. After a red-neck tow back home (tie-downs attached from my pickup's rear axle to the Scout's front axle, with a buddy doing the scout's steering and brakes), I was able to do a closer inspection.

    My electric fuel pump was sputtering and was likely the culprit, so it was time to get the mechanical pump up and working.

    I dis-assembled the original, very dirty fuel pump and replaced any suspect seals. it was fun to get a close look at the glass fuel filter bowl, and I was able to free up some stuck movement in the diaphragm. I was unwilling to try and remove the diaphragm for inspection, but everything else looked operational. As you can see, she cleaned up nicely!


    [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG]

    Got the rebuild pump installed and I was able to fire up the engine. However, I could see that fuel was leaking, and I suspected the diaphragm. This also means that gas likely leaked into my engine oil, which spelled doom for my engine seals if left unattended. Since I was planning on replacing the engine seals anyway, I pushed on to solve my fuel supply problem first before draining my oil.

    After deciding not to try and replace the diaphragm on the pump (a little too much machining for my tastes), I found that Autozone offers an Airtex Fuel Pump with vacuum wipers for $75.

    http://www.autozone.com/autozone/parts/Airtex-Master-Fuel-Pump/1964-International-Scout/_/N-iyt3hZ8vcz2?itemIdentifier=109348_199148_0_6219

    [​IMG]

    The new pump fit perfectly and powers the engine with no leaks.

    Has anyone had any experience with lifetime of these Airtex mechanical pumps? Any reliability issues I should be aware of?
     
  10. Fins160

    Fins160 Binder Driver

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    Got the carb rebuilt over the summer. Used a rebuild kit ordered from Advance Auto Parts. Followed this wonderful picture tutorial for the 194:

    http://www.binderplanet.com/forums/showthread.php?t=94944

    Overall it was in good shape, but was running a size 58 jet, which is much too small for the PHX elevation of 1000ft. Replaced with a stock 62 main jet. Float is in good shape and level was set correctly. Replaced all the seals and cleaned everything really well with lots of carb cleaner.

    I found that there is an internal adjustment setting - "normal" or "lean" according to the manual. Anyone have a recommendation for the setting? It was set to "lean", and I adjusted it to "normal".

    It's back together, pics are here:

    http://fins160.dyndns.org:8080/Red_Carpet_Treatment/Resto_Blog/Entries/2012/9/2_Carb_Rebuild_-_Part_2.html
     
  11. scout2000

    scout2000 Dreams of Cub Cadets

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    It looks like you have a great Scout in the makings.

    What are your paint plans, color wise, when you get to that point?
     
  12. Tres03

    Tres03 Binder Driver

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    Its always nice to see a red carpet scout. There are not to many of them around. You have a great foundation to start with, looks good.
     
  13. Fins160

    Fins160 Binder Driver

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    Thanks guys. I am going to do my best to keep it as original as possible. It breaks my heart when I see people part one out or turn a limited edition into a rock crawler. :no:

    Mechanical
    I am in the middle of cleaning and replacing seals on the engine, so I am painting the block, air filter, valve cover, push-rod cover, oil pan, tranny pan and oil filter cover Rustoleum Red Engine enamel. It's not an exact match to IH red, but cheaper and available locally.

    Exterior
    The exterior paint is in serviceable shape in most places, so for the exterior I am planning on doing some touch-up work with the original 902 "whitecap white" (Dupont 93-84047) that is mixed by a local Phoenix vendor until I can get enough money for a proper strip and repaint. Not planning on a frame-off, as I will be using this as a daily/weekend driver with some trips to the Arizona woods

    Interior
    For the interior, I removed what was left of the red (now yellow/grey) carpeting and need to take a wire wheel to the bed and floorboards to remove the surface rust. I am going to do one of two things here:
    1. Spray with rust preventer and undercoating, then put down new red carpet with padding
    2. Put in red bedliner instead of carpet so I don't have to worry when I take it into the woods Al's Bed Liner w/ IH Red

    I'll re-cover the seats with red marine vinyl and refinish the door vinyl since it's in-tact. Still missing one arm-rest.
     
    Last edited: Oct 15, 2012
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  14. Fins160

    Fins160 Binder Driver

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    Now for the fun part - getting the engine pretty.

    Goal:
    1. Remove air filter, valve cover, push-rod (valley) cover, hoses, oil pan, etc
    2. Strip and Paint all of the above, plus the engine block that I can get to without removing the engine
    3. Replace seals to eliminate oil leaks
    3. Put it back together and have it still run.

    Step 1: Remove valve cover, push-rod (valley) cover, hoses, oil pan, etc

    The valve cover was leaking pretty badly near the firewall, so removing that was easy. You can see some burnt oil under the cover, and even a bit of the original red paint left on the exterior.The push-rod cover is also very dirty, but underneath the rods look to be in good shape.

    [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG]
    [​IMG] [​IMG]

    The oil-bath air filter is in good shape, so I stripped that down along with the valve cover and valley cover.

    [​IMG] [​IMG]

    I wanted to try the Duplicolor Metacast paint on the air filter to get a metallic-red look. First you spray a metallic base-coat, then a red-tinted clear coat. It turned out looking like a lump or red coal. Not sure if I did something wrong, but I was not a fan, so I re-stripped it and started over.

    [​IMG]

    After thoroughly stripping, cleaning and prepping each part, I applied Rustoleum Red Engine Enamel to all the covers. They came out looking pretty nice!

    [​IMG] [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    The entire engine was coating in a primordial mixture of dirt, grease and oil, so it took quite a number of hours to clean everything with wire brushes, sand paper and a Dremel tool. I did the entire engine bay and everything I could reach inside. After disconnecting most of the engine hoses and masking off any open areas of the engine, I stripped and painted the parts of the engine block I could access.

    [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    I pulled off the oil pan, and a cover (transmission cover? Overdrive cover? I don't know what it's called but it doesn't have a seal), along with the oil filter cover and repeated the process with all those parts.

    For everything, I made sure to completely strip and clean all the surfaces that contact the new seals I would be installing.

    [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG]

    I purchased new gaskets from Autozone:
    http://www.autozone.com/autozone/parts/Felpro-Oil-Pan-Gasket/1964-International-Scout/_/N-iyt3hZ8znn5?itemIdentifier=67406_14228_0_

    http://www.autozone.com/autozone/parts/Felpro-Pushrod-Cover-Gasket/1964-International-Scout/_/N-iyt3hZ8zno4?itemIdentifier=73881_0_0_

    http://www.autozone.com/autozone/parts/Felpro-Valve-Cover-Gasket/1964-International-Scout/_/N-iyt3hZ8iics?itemIdentifier=72180_0_0_

    I applied a small amount of Permatex Ultra Black Maximum Oil Resistance RTV to the metal surface of each cover and the block before installing the covers - just enough to ensure that the gasket held and prevent any pinhole leaks. I've heard lots of debate back-and-forth about RTV, and I decided to go with it. I appreciate any feedback. :cornfused:

    http://www.autozone.com/autozone/accessories/Permatex-3-35-oz-95-g-tube-Ultra-Black-maximum-oil-resistance-RTV-silicone-gasket-maker/_/N-25a0?itemIdentifier=554295_0_0_

    Once everything was installed, I replaced the carb and oil filter and reconnected everything. Next step is to see how's she'll fire up!

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG]

    Cheers!
     
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  15. Fins160

    Fins160 Binder Driver

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    Work is slowly progressing on Henrietta, the red carpet scout. She is running and serves as a secondary "daily driver" around town, and will be ready for the mountains this summer!

    - Replaced fuel pump with new mechanical pump and vacuum wipers (which work well!)
    - Rebuilt the Master Clutch Cylinder to stop it from leaking
    - Finally got the carburetor working properly. I had replaced the needle without replacing the seat, and since those are matched pairs, I had leaks. Cleaned and kept original needle (which was in good shape)
    - Replaced all fluids (still seems to have a slow leak) and fixed most of the leaks in the engine except for the front timing cover seal, which is coming this week.
    - New clean air hoses installed
    - Cleaned the body and installed the hub caps

    Next steps
    - Balance all brakes (they all work, just needs some dialing in)
    - Doing the bed liner in Al's Liner IH red to match the carpet pattern of the RCS (front wells, center of bed, but not the wheel wells)
    - Reupholster all seats (current waiting for the new material to come in)
    - Straighten both bumpers (they are both bent at the same spot, not sure who was trying to pull this thing by the bumpers...
    - Exterior paint touch-up with matched "Whitecap white"
    - Disassemble/reassemble doors, seal with underbody spray, tighten up the latches, re-align hinges and and clean/re-attach door vinyl (it's all there, just needs to be re-done)
    - Figure out the heater situation and if it still works.


    Here some pics! Any advice on the stuff above, let me know.

    [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Apr 18, 2013
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  16. Rayscout800b

    Rayscout800b Farmall Cub

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    Nice Job! Keep at it little by little and enjoy your scout. Many so called rebuilds get started...and left for dead. You are doing great!:clap::clap:
     
  17. guidolyons

    guidolyons High Wheeler

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    Looking good, keep it up :beer:
     
  18. Fins160

    Fins160 Binder Driver

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    Thanks everyone!

    This weekend I will be replacing the front main seal, which (hopefully) is my last oil leak.

    I am considering whether I will replace the seal on the timing cover as well while I'm in there. I have the seals already, but they don't appear to be leaking (yet).

    So far I have removed the belt and removed the main bolt on the harmonic balancer. I used the trick of putting a socket on my breaker bar on the main bolt, then wedging the breaker bar under the passenger front leaf spring. I bumped the starter, and the bolt loosened up perfectly. Awesome tip I got from these forums!

    I loaned a harmonic balancer puller from Autozone, and got the timing cover set from Scoutparts.com (http://scoutparts.com/products/?view=product&product_id=10170). RTV and grease is ready to install the main seal.

    I am hoping there isn't too significant of a groove in the harmonic balancer and I won't have to use a speedi sleeve, but we'll see when I get in there.

    I'll post a tutorial when I'm done on the General IH Tech forum.

    Wish me luck! :wrenching:
     
  19. Fins160

    Fins160 Binder Driver

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    OK, got the main seal replaced, but it was not as straight-forward as I had hoped. I'll put a complete tutorial in a separate thread, but here's the quick low-down on how to do this change without removing the radiator or any other major components.

    One interesting thing - I had almost no groove in my pulley. My odometer shows 22k miles, but of course it just rolls over after 99k. Any idea how much of a groove I would expect if it has 22k vs 122k vs 222k? I am wondering if my 152 has less than 100k original miles.


    A brief overview:

    Removed the main bolt inside the pulley. To do this I installed the correct-sized socket and breaker bar onto the bolt, braced it against the frame, and turned the key just to bump the starter. It loosened right up.

    [​IMG]

    I then removed the four bolts around the pulley, and used a screwdriver to separate the belt channel from the pulley

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    I then made a custom "harmonic balancer" puller that fit between the pulley and the radiator, and after using a lot of elbow grease I was able to get it free.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    I removed the seal with a seal puller from Harbor Freight. Here you can see a comparison between the old and new seals:

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    My pulley was actually very clean, and had almost no groove. After packing with grease I re-seated the pulley with the new bearing about 1/16" proud of the surface. I used the main bolt to draw the pulley back into the block, and installed a new belt.

    No leaks!

    [​IMG]
     
  20. Fins160

    Fins160 Binder Driver

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    Henrietta got some New Shoes!

    The tires that came with this beast were Bias Ply tube-type tires that were worn down to the tread life markers. The ride comfort was similar to one of those quarter-based kiddie rides in front of the grocery store.

    Picked up a set of Goodyear Wrangler Armortrac 235/75R15 on original stock wheels from Discount Tire. Just brought the old tires and rims down myself and had them mounted and balanced. I am fairly confident they wouldn't have had a clue what to do with the 4 stick shifts if I had parked the Scout and asked them to put it on the lift and install them.

    Here are some pics. The ride is amazingly better!


    The elusive hover-scout...

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]



    New shoes!

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     

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