1957 S130 Build

Discussion in 'Binder Builds' started by Josiah, Mar 29, 2019.


  1. Josiah

    Josiah Farmall Cub

    Joined:
    Mar 12, 2019
    Messages:
    25
    Likes Received:
    9
    Trophy Points:
    3
    Starting a thread for my 1957 S130.

    This truck belonged to my grandpa who had owned it since around 1998. He has always been an International truck user, and still has a couple of 70's era trucks in use on the farm. This truck was his oldest and was used for a couple of years before being put under a pole barn. My grandpa kept it around with the intention of one day restoring it, but recently decided he had too many projects and not enough time. He sold it to me with the promise I would not turn it into a rat rod.

    I picked it up earlier this year and towed it home. The wheels were locked up so we used a couple of tractors to push and pull it onto the trailer. The trip was an adventure. Forecast was to be cloudy but it ended up raining almost the entire drive home. Pro-tip, U-Haul car carriers are not really large enough to tow something of this size. Probably should have been obvious, but we made it work with a trip to Lowes for some weight which was added to the tounge. We added around 800 lbs and it was only just enough to make the trailer safe to tow. Once home we used a bottle jack and hand winch to push the truck backwards off the trailer and into the garage. After 5 hours of painstaking progress it was safely home.

    [​IMG] [​IMG]

    Once home and in the garage it was time to dig in and see what I was dealing with. The body is in fantastic shape with only a couple of small rust holes behind the driver side headlight. The frame is solid with minimal surface rust and no obvious cracks or dings. All the glass is in good shape, and the window cranks are in perfect working order.

    The interior is pretty decent as well. I pulled the seat and disgusting carpet before vacuuming out years of collected grain, mice droppings, mice, and dirt. The result is a very solid floor pan with no rust holes and some minimal surface rust.
    [​IMG]
    I plan on having the seat cleaned up with some new foam and vinyl covering. Otherwise, the interior is going to remain mostly untouched for the time being.

    The engine is an unknown. In classic form it "ran when parked", but that was at least 15 years ago so it will need work. I pulled the valve cover off and was greeted with some ugly rust on just about everything at the front of the engine. I have not attempted to rotate the engine yet as I do not have a socket that will fit the crank bolt and clear the frame. My guess is it will be seized judging by the valves but who knows, maybe I will get lucky. Seeing as this is a strait valve engine, I dont know if I want to rebuild it. I may try finding a good tilt-valve, or just go full engine swap and put something a bit more modern in its place.
    [​IMG]

    I have also pulled the front hubs and brakes apart in a bit more exploratory surgery. Everything came apart without much hassle, but the news was not too good. The drums have some serious grooves in the braking surface. I need to take them to a shop and see if they can be salvaged but my guess is they are too worn to be turned. I have been looking for some replacement drums but they are hard to come by it seems. With the absence of good replacements I have been throwing around ideas to continue on. I could convert the truck to 4x4, or use a custom axle made to fit Ford or Chevy spindles and brake hardware.

    Both options would also allow me to change bolt pattern to a more common size and open up the wheel choices if I need to replace them in the future. Ideally I will find a set of drums that are in good shape and keep things stock, but for now I am mulling the alternatives.

    So that is where I am at. Lots of things to consider before I start dumping money into it. At least the issues are all mechanical, those are easy to work around compared to what I have seen others dealing with.
     
  2. mongocanfly

    mongocanfly High Wheeler

    Joined:
    Nov 5, 2017
    Messages:
    1,721
    Likes Received:
    1,235
    Trophy Points:
    113
    Location:
    Alabama
    Sweet truck...and welcome ....
    .always nice to start out with one in great shape...and a little family history as well...
    I can tell you from my own research on my 57 A120 that good parts are near impossible to find ..and expensive when you do....you might be better off with a full frame/drivetrain swap...depending on your plans....
     
  3. oneof3k

    oneof3k High Wheeler

    Joined:
    May 24, 2017
    Messages:
    1,330
    Likes Received:
    1,147
    Trophy Points:
    113
    Location:
    Not quite close enough to the CO San Juan Mnts
    The first major problem that I see is that you really screwed up bad; you purchased concrete for weight in the rain. What were you thinking? Play sand, for God's sake, is the same price and you could reuse it for the feral cats as a potty :flowers:.

    Man, that looks like a great find! Congrats! And in the event you haven't had a chance to look into mongocanfly's build (above), definitely do so. That's a good one. A really good one!
     
  4. DT466

    DT466 Farmall Cub

    Joined:
    Nov 20, 2010
    Messages:
    381
    Likes Received:
    57
    Trophy Points:
    28
    Location:
    Wichita, KS
    Josiah,
    First, welcome to the site! Sweet truck you've got there.
    As you've seen, drums are really hard to find, maybe you'll luck out and they'll be turnable. If you're planning to keep it as a one ton, an axle swap might be the way to go.

    Dean
     
  5. Josiah

    Josiah Farmall Cub

    Joined:
    Mar 12, 2019
    Messages:
    25
    Likes Received:
    9
    Trophy Points:
    3
    Made some progress over the last week but have hit a snag. I pulled the transmission without a problem and have been working on pulling the engine. I have the engine free from its mounts, but there does not seem to be enough clearance between the lower crossmember and cab floor bracing to allow the rear engine mounts to clear. A seemingly obvious solution would be to unbolt the cab and raise it to provide the necessary clearance.

    While this would certainly work, it also opens up the risk of mission creep and might-as-wells. Before I go further, is there anything obvious that I am missing?

    On a positive note, I have determined the engine is not seized. I was able to rotate it by hand and watched the valves open and close. The engine ID flat on the passenger side does not seem to be stamped with any markings. Is there any other area to check to verify which engine I have? The door tag shows a net HP rating at 111 hp and a gross hp of 131. I would guess it to be a 240 as the numbers are the closest to hp ratings I have found online.
     
  6. mongocanfly

    mongocanfly High Wheeler

    Joined:
    Nov 5, 2017
    Messages:
    1,721
    Likes Received:
    1,235
    Trophy Points:
    113
    Location:
    Alabama
    I'm trying to visualize what your describing ...can you no take the crossmember out?...mine was just bolted in
     
  7. Greg R

    Greg R Lives in an IH Dealership

    Joined:
    Mar 23, 2002
    Messages:
    5,027
    Likes Received:
    695
    Trophy Points:
    113
    Location:
    Lebanon, OR
    Don't let a little surface rust scare you off what might be a good block. One question would be does it hold water? I've been burnt a time or two with a cracked block from a winter's freeze. The main thing would be would a little clean'in a massage"in bring her back to life? I would just get it roadworthy and then go from there.
     
  8. Josiah

    Josiah Farmall Cub

    Joined:
    Mar 12, 2019
    Messages:
    25
    Likes Received:
    9
    Trophy Points:
    3
    The crossmember appears to be riveted in place. I expected it to be bolted in place and was looking to remove it. I will give it another look just to double check.

    The issue is when I lift the rear mounts off of the crossmember to allow it to move forward the top of the bellhousing where the transmission bolts to is blocked by the cab floor bracing. This is the brace that runs below the floor that the cab to frame bolts run through. It is very close and looks like I only need 1/4" or 1/2" more space and it would slide out no problem. I find it hard to believe there is not enough space as it is. I have been trying to pull it out by myself because I had some free time today but I probably just need another set of hands and eyes to finess it.

    Greg, I am encouraged by the fact that everything is moving. My plans are exactly as you say, get it moving and then go from there.
     
  9. Jeff Jamison

    Jeff Jamison Lives in an IH Dealership

    Joined:
    Oct 11, 2001
    Messages:
    7,467
    Likes Received:
    986
    Trophy Points:
    113
    Location:
    Aliquippa Pa
    What if you remove the bell housing first,you need to remove the flywheel first,and its heavy,then you should be able to unbolt the bell housing.
     
  10. Josiah

    Josiah Farmall Cub

    Joined:
    Mar 12, 2019
    Messages:
    25
    Likes Received:
    9
    Trophy Points:
    3
    Made a bit of progress since the last update.
    I gave up trying to pull the engine for the time being and tore the top end apart. I was worried the rocker arm assembly would be too rusted but it appears to only be cosmetically altered. The bearing surface of each rocker arm is still clean and the oil passages are clear. A bit of clean up to k ock the surface rust off and they will be good to go. The cylinder walls are in excellent shape with minor wear and no major scoring. One cylinder has some surface rust that should be easy to clear up by hand.

    I finally got around to the rear brakes and disassembled them. Unlike the front, the rear drums are in excellent shape. The rear brake shoes appear to have been reconditioned shortly before the truck was put into storage and are near perfect. The only things needing replaced are the wheel cylinders. Fortunately those are cheap. I also need to form a new hard brake line for the axle because it was crushed at the wheel cylinder at some point. It looks like it was intentionally crushed to close off the line, maybe as part of a temporary leak fix.

    Pretty excited about the condition of everything so far.
     
  11. PHuscher

    PHuscher Farmall Cub

    Joined:
    Mar 9, 2004
    Messages:
    122
    Likes Received:
    23
    Trophy Points:
    18
    Location:
    Waukee, IA
    The rear mounts are u-shaped and fit over the crossmember. If you haven't removed the rubber mounts before pulling the engine forward, you would probably not have enough clearance. Lift the rear of the engine/bellhousing just off the crossmember and then slide the rubber mounts out. If you have done that, the problem is that the cab mounts have settled. Loosen or remove the two front cab mounting bolts and you should be able to lift the cab enough to get clearance to pull the engine and bellhousing together. They were made to remove the engine and bellhousing together.
     
  12. Josiah

    Josiah Farmall Cub

    Joined:
    Mar 12, 2019
    Messages:
    25
    Likes Received:
    9
    Trophy Points:
    3
    Deteriorated body mounts makes perfect sense. So far I have been able to work on the engine with it in the truck and it has not been an issue. I will probably leave it in place for the time being.

    I took the head to a local machine shop to have it cleaned up. The shop installed new valve guides, cleaned up the valves and valve seats, and surfaced it.
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    In the time it has been in the shop I have been busy cleaning up the rocker assembly. I have been taking the no effort approach by letting them soak in Evapo-Rust. I have been quite impressed with the results so far. A couple of days soaking and the parts are coming out with almost all of the rust gone.
    [​IMG]

    Here are two of the rocker stands, the left is a before treatment and the right is after, as an example.
    [​IMG]

    I need to pick up a larger container of the stuff so I can soak the severely rusted half of the rocker assembly as a whole unit. There is enough rust on the shaft between the rocker arms that there is no way I would be able to slide them off individually.

    Once I have them cleaned up I am ready to start putting things back together. Boxes of parts have been arriving daily and I am itching to put them to good use.
     
    Big Ed and oneof3k like this.
  13. Josiah

    Josiah Farmall Cub

    Joined:
    Mar 12, 2019
    Messages:
    25
    Likes Received:
    9
    Trophy Points:
    3
    Well, I wish I had more things finished at this point but progress has been slow. Most of my time has been spent cleaning up parts and splashing them with a touch of paint. I cleaned up the fan, fan pulley, and water pump, as well as some other external engine bits while waiting for the rocker assembly to soak away the rust.
    [​IMG]

    After about a week in the Evapo-Rust bath the rocker assembly came out looking very good. Considering these are the same rockers as pictured in my first post, and that they were completely rusted solid, I am thoroughly impressed.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    I am in the process of replacing gaskets and hope to have the engine bolted back up in the near future.

    I have also been focusing on repairing the brake system. It took quite some digging but I was finally able to track down a local company that still relines brake shoes. I dropped the front brake shoes off earlier this week and should have them back in about another week or so. I was debating replacing the hard brake lines and after attempting to remove the brake hoses, I think my decision has been made. Managed to twist the line to the front right side and the rear axle line was crushed prior to my possession. With roughly half the lines in need of repair I guess I will just be replacing everything.

    I hooked a battery up to see what works. Turns out nothing works. I am not particularly surprised given the number of broken wires and wires spliced multiple times. I am looking into different wire harnesses but have not decided which one to use. I used a fairly generic wire harness to rewire a UAZ with moderate success, but would like something a bit nicer on this truck.
     
  14. mongocanfly

    mongocanfly High Wheeler

    Joined:
    Nov 5, 2017
    Messages:
    1,721
    Likes Received:
    1,235
    Trophy Points:
    113
    Location:
    Alabama
    evaporust is good stuff....looks a bunch more better...
    I'm using American autowire for my harness...15 circuit I believe
     
  15. Josh800A

    Josh800A Farmall Cub

    Joined:
    Mar 21, 2018
    Messages:
    142
    Likes Received:
    51
    Trophy Points:
    28
    Awesome job. Total envy here. Can’t wait to see it running and driving.
    Keep on keeping on...
     
  16. Josiah

    Josiah Farmall Cub

    Joined:
    Mar 12, 2019
    Messages:
    25
    Likes Received:
    9
    Trophy Points:
    3
    Dropped the oil pan to check the bottom end and oil pump out. I pulled the oil pump out and cleaned the gunk off of the filter screens. Gave it a good once over then hooked it up to a drill to test it. Everything went well with the test and it seemed to pump a solid flow of oil.

    I then checked connecting rod play on the crank. All of the rods had fore- aft play, and one had a noticeable amount of radial play. I guess a new set of bearings are in order. At this point I am debating if I should just do a full rebuild. I also noticed some coolant at the rear of the block that appeared to have dripped down through the lifters for cylinder 5. I do not see any cracks or obvious flaws so hopefully it is just remnant from when I pulled the head.

    I called it a day after I managed to smash my thumb between the axle flange and the hub while replacing the axle. Stupid mistake, but it has officially drawn blood making it a true project vehicle.
     
  17. Alex

    Alex Farmall Cub

    Joined:
    Oct 23, 2001
    Messages:
    412
    Likes Received:
    38
    Trophy Points:
    28
    Location:
    On The, Edge
    If you have only one cylinder with radial play, you should be able to bush it.
    The coolant is troublesome.
    Your call.
    I'd [in house] rebuild it.
    Pretty simple and straightforward rebuild. Gasket it and bush the crank.
     
  18. Josiah

    Josiah Farmall Cub

    Joined:
    Mar 12, 2019
    Messages:
    25
    Likes Received:
    9
    Trophy Points:
    3
    Made some small progress over the last couple of weeks. I finished rebuilding the brakes on the rear axle. Everything went smoothly, aside from having to reposition the truck because it was parked too close to the garage wall to remove the axle shaft. Only needed another couple of inches, go figure.

    I spoke to the shop relining the front brake shoes as it had been about 3 weeks since I dropped them off. He told me they had been delayed due to a large commitment with St Louis City, and they needed to order material but they should have them ready to go soon. Hopefully it wont be too much longer, I really want to put the wheels back on and get them out of my way lol

    In the down time I have been addressing other issues. I took a look inside the transmission and the gears are in fantastic shape. Most of the bearings are in good shape, but most of the seals are worthless. Gear oil pours out of the main shaft seal when it is oriented any way but level. I have been trying to figure out what I have to order the correct parts. I assume it is a Borg Warner T9 based on the side markings and a few diagrams I have found. It is marked 1 T9-1ll WG CO.

    Does anyone know if the T98 gaskets and seals are compatible? Research leads me to believe many of the gaskets are similar and may work but I am finding conflicting reports.
     
    Brokegunner likes this.
  19. Josiah

    Josiah Farmall Cub

    Joined:
    Mar 12, 2019
    Messages:
    25
    Likes Received:
    9
    Trophy Points:
    3
    Well, today I received some bad news. I had ordered a connecting rod bearing from Jegs as they were the only one to show them available online. It was supposed to ship from the manufacturer, but today I received an email informing me they were discontinued and no longer available. Looks like I am back to searching again. I guess it isnt world ending, but still a disappointment.
     
  20. Josiah

    Josiah Farmall Cub

    Joined:
    Mar 12, 2019
    Messages:
    25
    Likes Received:
    9
    Trophy Points:
    3
    Been a while since the last update and sadly I do not have a lot to add. I picked up the brake shoes from the shop and they looked fantastic. Installed the shoes with a new set of springs and new wheel cylinders. Looking really nice. I need to make a new set of hard lines and install the master cylinder to finish the brake system.

    [​IMG]

    I have been searching Ebay for parts and was able to snag a complete set of connecting rod bearings for $20.00. They are .050 undersized so a bit of machining is in order. The current ones are .030 undersized and there is a bit of wear on the crank so it needs a touch of machine work anyways.
    At least it is nice to be working in the garage and not have to fight off swarms of mosquitos. Still hot, but the weather should be cooling to more pleasing temperatures by the end of the week.
     

Share This Page