View Full Version : Biodiesel use checklist
06-14-2007, 08:23 AM
I've just put in my first batch of biodiesel into my sd33T. I topped off a 19 gallon tank with ~2.5 gallons B99. So, I'm at about B10 for the moment. I plan to run light for a bit and then change the fuel filter.
My understanding is that I will have to pay attention to:
- Fuel filters (cleansing properties of Biodiesel will disloged dirt, etc.)
- Rubber fuel supply lines (Biodiesel will degrade older rubber lines)
- Other rubber parts and gaskets
My concern is that I don't really know what other rubber parts there are that might be affected. So, anyone with experience, I'd like to know what other rubber parts/gaskets I can eventually expect to have issues with. How long will the old rubber fuel lines/parts last before degrading becomes an issue.
06-14-2007, 08:34 AM
I know, I know... there are already threads on this.
But it would be nice to have a nice clean summary/overview for those whor are considering the change...
06-14-2007, 09:16 AM
I decided to plagarize a bunch of the other entries to summarize the general concensus:
Purchase and run ASTM quality biodiesel.
B100 is corrosive to paint. Someone recommend finding a race-car methanol-proof clear-coat.
The IP and lift pump are fine.
The prime pump on the firewall will eventually crap out.
The nylon fuel hose seems to hold up, there are short lengths of hose at the tank and hoses from filters to engine that should be replaced before too long.
Tank filler will soften as well.
On the Scout, the rubber lines are not under high pressure 25 psi max Viton will be fine for replacement.
Also use lengths of aluminum tube between short pieces of the Viton.
You will only need to buy a 1-foot length, of two hose inside diameters-2.0", and 1/2".
Someone had issue with the rubber rectangular-section quad ring gasket sealing a new repro fuel pickup and sender unit to the new plastic gas tank sure was.
Some have postulated that replacement of the fuel tank with a non-galvanized substitute is necessary...
There appears to be some issues with the hose clamps/fittings…
That's a pretty good summary. The thing about swapping the tank, if it's galvanized on the inside, is mandatory. If you don't, you'll suffer from clogged filters for a loooong time!
You'll see lots of silvery flakes in the filter, and that will continue until all of the zinc is gone. I've had this problem for over two years and have run about 800 gallons of bio through the tank, and it still persists. Now you know why I stress this... I don't want any of you guys to have the same trouble as I have when I fill 'er up with bio....
06-19-2007, 09:02 AM
There is one more issue with Biodiesel.
At around 50*F it will begin to gel.
There are two ways to solve this problem.
1. When ambient temperatures get below 50*F, mix your Bio with Petro 50/50 blend. If it gets below freezing, a 20bio/80petro may be necessary.
2. Install a heater into your fuel system. A series of 12V battery blanket type heaters along the fuel lines, pump, filter, and where the lines come out of the tank will do the trick, and can be had at most autoparts stores. Also a block heater will help keep temps warm in the combustion chamber at first startup in the morning. I have a more extreme heating system for running straight VeggieOil where I must get the oil to 180*F to match diesel viscosity.
06-27-2007, 02:28 AM
A better mix for cold weather is B70 with the other 30% being kerosene (K1). That should keep you clear down to 0*F.
07-17-2007, 03:06 PM
Hey Guys - For the 2" i.d. section of hoe, what type did you use? I read this thread and others and thought it was Viton, but local suppliers say they can't get it that size; so thinking maybe a different type of hose?
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